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Old 10-31-2014, 06:52 PM   #21
Mark N.
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by richfaa

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Mark N.

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quote:Originally posted by richfaa

We were surprised to see that the anode rod was in very good shape but we changed it out anyway....
I'm curious: Is there a reason you changed it anyway, even if it was in good shape? I was always told (right or wrong) "If there is metal left on the wire at all, it is still working just fine, put it back in."
I've never swapped one, because I've never had one erode down to nothing. Maybe 50% of new. Then I sold the trailer. Should I have replaced it?
It was the OEM anode rod and it leaked and I could never stop the slight leak. I had a new rod in my "stuff" box and when I pulled out the OEM rod I noted it has less threads than the new "Camco" rod purchased at Camping world. I thought "what the heck"... I put in the new rod and no leaks...
Ahhh, I see. Thank you. I'm still trying to learn the "best practices" of the proper care, feeding and love of these big guys!
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Old 05-09-2016, 05:52 PM   #22
KathyandDave
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Our anode's threaded fitting and the threaded fitting of the tank have corroded so the anode hasn't been working (by the way, it's supposed to wear away - it's a sacrificial anode - and Teflon defeats it by insulating its the electrical connection. I can replace the anode to get new threads, but I'm wondering if I should get a tap/die to clean the opening threads. I started with CLR this evening, but I don't think it'll clean the threads sufficiently. Thoughts?
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Old 05-09-2016, 07:22 PM   #23
rohrmann
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This is copied from the Suburban water heater manual (Note, it says to use Teflon tape on the threads of the anode rod):

The tank in this water heater is protected by a magnesium or aluminum anode to prolong the life of the tank by absorbing the corrosive action of hot water. Under normal use, the anode rod will deteriorate and because of this, we recommend it be replaced yearly. NOTE: Water with high levels of iron and/or sulfate will increase the rate of deterioration; therefore, more frequent replacement may be required. If anode rod is mostly eaten away, replace it with a new one. (See Figure 11)

To prevent a water leak when replacing the anode rod, a pipe thread sealant approved for potable water (such as Teflon Tape) must be applied to the threads of the anode rod. Proper application of a thread sealant will not interfere with the anode’s tank protection.

Operating the water heater without proper anode protection will decrease tank life and will void your warranty on the tank. NOTE: Tank is drained by removing anode rod (See “Drain and Storage” instructions).

To extend anode life, drain water from tank whenever RV is not being used. Avoid any extended time of non use with water in tank.
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Old 05-10-2016, 03:42 AM   #24
Bill and Jan
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Be careful withe the little plastic wand. Ours cracked near the end and when the water pressure was on shot the metal end rod into the tank. It provided a lot of entertainment at the fall rally trying to remove it.
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Old 05-10-2016, 04:30 AM   #25
KathyandDave
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by rohrmann

This is copied from the Suburban water heater manual (Note, it says to use Teflon tape on the threads of the anode rod):
...
To prevent a water leak when replacing the anode rod, a pipe thread sealant approved for potable water (such as Teflon Tape) must be applied to the threads of the anode rod. Proper application of a thread sealant will not interfere with the anode’s tank protection.
The question is what is "proper application" that allows electrical continuity? Maybe a single wrap?
Any thoughts on cutting the threads of the tank?
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Old 05-10-2016, 06:35 AM   #26
kdeiss
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HJ Heinz makes clening streath Vinagar you can buy at the Grocery store that is what I use works great to clean the coffee pot also!
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:10 AM   #27
rohrmann
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Generally, three complete wraps of Teflon tape will seal against leaks. I've used the tape every year on ours with new anodes, and they wear as expected each year. If you tighten the anode properly, the threads will make metallic contact with the threads of the tank. If your threads in the tank are corroded too bad, you may need to get a 3/4 inch pipe tap to chase the threads, but if you do, don't run the tap in too far, just enough to clean up the threads. In any case, you must use some sort of pipe thread dope or tape on the threads, or you may never be able to remove the anode in the future.
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Old 05-10-2016, 03:09 PM   #28
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I have always used a magnesium anode rod.
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Old 05-11-2016, 08:22 AM   #29
Bill.vannuys
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Descaling...and a weak acid.#129300; I like the idea. Thanks!
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Old 05-11-2016, 09:14 AM   #30
dieselguy
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I agree with Bob on the teflon tape topic. Teflon tape does not insulate any tapered pipe threads, it just helps seal them. Once you start screwing pipe threads together the thread crest cuts thru the teflon almost instantly.
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Old 05-12-2016, 06:21 PM   #31
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It turned out that the anode threads had spalled but the tank threads were only corroded. I used a dremel cutter to repair the anode threads and the wire brush to clean the tank threads. One complete wrap of Teflon, tighten er down with a ratchet and had a sold seal.
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Old 05-13-2016, 07:28 AM   #32
oldelmer1
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To clean the threads out, I get a 3/4 inch pipe fitting brush, cut the handle off and put it into the cordless drill. Works great.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...5a86d7_400.jpg
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Old 05-14-2016, 05:11 PM   #33
KathyandDave
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quote:Originally posted by oldelmer1

To clean the threads out, I get a 3/4 inch pipe fitting brush, cut the handle off and put it into the cordless drill. Works great.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...5a86d7_400.jpg
Great idea!
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