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Old 12-20-2019, 06:47 AM   #1
edmck
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Living on 30 Amps

I'm currently set up on private property in the foothills of Mt. Lemmon just north of Tucson. I have 30 amp power from a nearby garage (about 50 feet away). Since mine is a 50 amp coach, I have a 30' 50 amp cable connected directly to the RV and a 25' 30 amp extension plugged into the garage outlet. A small voltage meter I have plugged into a 115V galley receptacle in the coach reads a steady 117–118 volts with only the refrigerator, interior lights and battery charger running. When I add a space heater the readout drops to 113 and when the coffee maker (or microwave) are added the voltage gets down to 109–110. This worries me a bit — at what point do I start turning things off? I have read that below 110 volts some appliances may not operate properly, that damage may even occur. Does that mean I'm okay at 110?
 
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Old 12-20-2019, 07:14 AM   #2
Theunz
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The progressive industries EMS doesn't shut down until you drop below 104 volts, so I think you would be good to that. I would however try not to run consistently at that low of voltage.
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Old 12-20-2019, 07:54 AM   #3
jcurtis934
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Fridge and water heater should be running on propane when trying to run off a 30 amp source. If you have a residential fridge, then it is efficient enough to run off 120vac and use less power than a rv fridge. Expect to only run one high power device, such as a microwave, toaster, or coffee pot, at a time. Life on 30 amps versus 100 amps.
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Old 12-20-2019, 04:13 PM   #4
trustymopars
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I have used a Hughes Autoformer in situations like that to even out the power. Comes in handy also at older campgrounds that only have 30 amp service JT.
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Old 12-20-2019, 07:23 PM   #5
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Make sure the 30 amp extension cord is big enough. A cord with more wire strands will allow less voltage drop.
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Old 12-22-2019, 04:33 AM   #6
beeje
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A good rule of thumb is, don't use more that 2 heat or cold producing items at one time while on 3o amps. Since the fridge draws around 5 amps, it can be run along with the 2 other items.

Many times I have run the fridge/1 ceramic heater and the fireplace. Or 1 heater/water heater on electric. If you want to brew coffee for example, turn off water heater until its done then turn it back on. Etc.
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Old 12-22-2019, 09:08 AM   #7
richfaa
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We are rarely on 30 amp service we avoid it if we can, We have done it when there was no other choice. You can not run much on 30 amps just the necessities. We
have done 30 amps when we had to run on the generator and that is all we got. There is s big difference on what you can run on 30 amps VS 100 amps.
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Old 12-22-2019, 10:14 AM   #8
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i have a 03 3280 RL and I can use 30 amp service without issue. even the A/C works fine. I can also use my radar oven at the same time. It may be because I don't have that much electrical stuff in my unit. I also noticed that they charge more for 50 amp service.
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Old 01-11-2020, 08:47 AM   #9
DebNJim B
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We are also on a private site in the winter. We ran an adequate line up from the barn on a 50amp breaker but had a pedestal I picked up used that was only 30 amp. The first year we would trip the pedestal once or twice a week. It just seemed a pita so I got a 50 amp pedestal and replaced it. Have not had an issue since. Do you have 50 amps available at the source? if so a new outlet and breaker there and a 50 amp extension would be cheaper than my pedestal cost me. I can now run heat, heat pump, fireplace and microwave w/o a problem.
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Old 01-11-2020, 09:25 AM   #10
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It's all about managing your Amp load. Right off the bat your converter draws a few amps. Open your fuse panel and you will see a label with your model number. You can go online and download the manual if you dont already have it. See how much it uses. Then you have your smoke detectors and propane leak detectors.
Next, whatever else you have plugged in. Fridge, TV, water heater, furnace. Some of these draw a little even when not turned on (standby circuits).
Make a chart listing each appliance and its Amp draw.
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Old 01-11-2020, 11:48 AM   #11
team bradfield
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our local campground is 30 amp, we do it all the time, only issue is microwave and toaster at the same time trips the circuit breaker at the pedestal. we always use propane for the water heater, I think it recycles faster anyway.
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Old 01-11-2020, 05:27 PM   #12
mtlakejim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryles View Post
It's all about managing your Amp load. Right off the bat your converter draws a few amps. Open your fuse panel and you will see a label with your model number. You can go online and download the manual if you dont already have it. See how much it uses. Then you have your smoke detectors and propane leak detectors.
Next, whatever else you have plugged in. Fridge, TV, water heater, furnace. Some of these draw a little even when not turned on (standby circuits).
Make a chart listing each appliance and its Amp draw.
The chart is an excellent idea. If you have one of the Progressive surge protector with the digital readout, you can actually read the power draw directly from it. On 50amp it shows the draw on each leg! All you have to do is turn on one appliance at a time and write down the draw.

I know it won't help the OP but if you have a third A/C and wire it separately from the rest of your coach, you can in theory plug it into the 110volt on a 30amp campground pedestal and have two A/C units at the same time (1 on the 30amp and 1 on the 20amp 110volt).
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