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Old 10-12-2015, 10:56 AM   #1
YOPPER
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Replacing 1116 pinbox with Morryde

Any secrets I should know about or tips to make it easier?
 
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Old 10-12-2015, 12:15 PM   #2
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I went and bought all new, USA manufactured hardware(with certification papers). Grade-5 bolts(three radial lines on head of bolt), nuts, and lock-washers from Fastenal. I got grade-5 because that is what the original hardware was. Grade-8 may be too hard and brittle for the application, with risk of failure from fracturing.

If you decide to go that same route, make sure to emphasize that you need to have USA manufactured hardware with certs, otherwise you will just get the same old standard Chinese crap that everyone carries these days.

It was quite a bit more expensive than Chinese made hardware, but I didn't want 8 tons of rolling mass behind my truck using un-certified hardware from China. Maybe it's just me, but I just feel better about it when I'm hauling that behemoth around at freeway speed.

After unhooking all of the wiring from the pin box, removal of old pin box was done with the pin box hitched up to truck. No vertical load on the hitch, undo bolts and remove them, watch your fingers, as the pin box and hitch will want to pivot down at the rear because of the weight. Drive truck out from under 5er straight and slow, and watch closely for any binding or hang-ups.

Install new pin box the same way, only in reverse order. Definitely use a torque wrench to recommended torque value. Re-torque them after each of the first few trips just to be safe.
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Old 10-12-2015, 12:35 PM   #3
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I replaced mine with a 5th Airborne but the process would be similar. Two sets of hands would be good, but not difficult by yourself. With my tailgate down and truck backed under pin box, I lowered the trailer until the old pin box was just barely above the tailgate. I removed the bolts and let the pin box down on the tailgate. Raised the trailer until the frame was above the pin box, moved the old pin box out of the way, moved the new pin box under the frame, lowered the trailer onto the new pin box, aligned the holes with a large screwdriver, and inserted new bolts. Really pretty easy.
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Old 10-12-2015, 02:06 PM   #4
dieselguy
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I have to smile here ... much of "our" steel is overseas send backs after we send them the better stuff. Read up on this if in doubt. Anyways ... measure the distance between ground and original pinbox plate ... match new one as close as possible. This is assuming the original was in the right place to start with.
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Old 10-12-2015, 02:26 PM   #5
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When I first went into business I called to order some OGFC copper. The salesman said do you wont the American or the Japanese. OHFC is a very high grade copper so I said send me the good stuff the American. He said if you wont the good stuff that is the Japanese copper. They do make good medals across the pond.
My Montana came with grade 5 hitch bolts and my High Country came with grade 8 bolts.
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Old 10-12-2015, 05:51 PM   #6
rohrmann
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Grade 8 bolts are stronger than grade 5 bolts, both in tensile strength and shear strength. If you want the best, go with the grade 8 bolts. The following link goes into more detail about what I just paraphrased: http://tinelok.com/grade-5-vs-grade-8-fasteners/
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Old 10-14-2015, 11:44 AM   #7
jcurtis934
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If you just buy a new trailer with the pin box you want, it will save you the work of the change out. Course, you would have to debug that new trailer... John
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Old 10-15-2015, 03:32 AM   #8
YOPPER
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Thanks for info on bolts. Have Morryde instr. Pinbox is cheaper than new Monty and no break in
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