Slide out operation pause

[sreigle]

We also have never had to stop and let ours rest, except when we had the breaker problem. If you have to let yours rest, then there is probably a problem. If you let it rest because it's easier on the system, that's fine.

[Itakethe5th]

quote:Originally posted by Trailer Trash 2

Here is what Dale told me to make for mine after the install I never had a problem again.

Straped fuses
http://i6.tinypic.com/1zps3kh.jpg

I have the whole process on a adoby file from him if you want it you will have to get me your e-mail address.

Don. AKA TT2

Have a question. When these breakers are put together do you put your hookup wires on the same breaker or do you put one wire on the batt. pole on one breaker then one on the pole up to the pump on the other breaker?

[Itakethe5th]

whoops

[Trailer Trash 2]

quote:Originally posted by Itakethe5th

Have a question. When these breakers are put together do you put your hookup wires on the same breaker or do you put one wire on the batt. pole on one breaker then one on the pole up to the pump on the other breaker?

I hope that you dont want me to answer this question two times, HA HA.

If you want me to send you the adobie file I will, I can not put it on the forum because it would take me to long to type it. the PDF file is what Lippert recomended, if a problem arrises in a fuse tripping on the slides being extended or retracted.
I will say that if the problem doesnt stop, a person might have other problem and should see there RV Service department.
this fixer worked for me and several other MOC members too.
Good luck, and have a good day.

TT2

[The Oldguard]

Not sure what you mean mean by "pause" If you means it stops working, you let up off the slide switch and in 10 or 15 seconds it works again...Yes it is a ckt breaker and I am not saying it is normal because I don't know but it is a common occurrence. We have the 3400 with 4 slides and we will bring in a couple of slides then let up on the switch, bring in another one, let it cool then bring in the main slide. We have not had a "pause since we started doing that..
________________________________________Rich& Helen N.Ridgeville,Ohio.

Nothing wrong with a 80 amp circuit breaker. the number only represents the amount of current that can go through the breaker before it gets too hot and trips. Our trailer came with a 50 amp breaker for the slide pump, but during the cold weather I found the slide pump was using 60 to 65 amps. therefore tripping the breaker. As Dale said 100 amp might be too high for the pump, but 80 seems to work OK. I had to parallel two 40 amp breakers (couldn't find a 80 amp breaker where I live).

J&D

If you start having trouble with you’re slides, where if trying to bring them in, or out and they won’t shut off, and won’t reverse hurry up and disconnect the batteries to avoid damage to the pump.

Then disconnect and remove the center heavy gage wire on the solenoid located on the pump and then replace the wire, and reconnect the batteries if this solves your problem great, if not you may have to replace the solenoid.

Dealer sent out a technician to make house call, and he found out that the solenoid was bad on one side and needed to be replaced, glad we found problem while at home, and not on the road.

________________________________________William & C.J. Young
05 3400RL

We too had the problem with the slides while bring them in, or out where we had to let up on the switch, and letting the breaker cool then finish the other slides.

As I stated above we had trouble with the slides not stopping, and wouldn’t reverse direction with the switch. Now that the solenoid has been replaced we have run the slides in and out over seven time with no pause, or stopping and the breaker has not tripped one time which is really great.

[ARJ]

I bought 40 Amp breakers at the local auto parts store for less than 3 bucks each, a hunk of 6 ga stranded wire at Home Depot and some 6 ga solderless terminals (may be hard to find). Total cost was less than $15. It does take a hell of a lot of pressure to crimp the terminals with a standard crimper though. Heat shrink the terminal assemblies if you can find heat shrink big enough or tape them if you can't.

To answer a connection question, battery cable goes to one of the copper connections on the breakers and the pump wire goes to one of the zinc colored connections on the breakers. Look at this!

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...p/breakers.jpg

It really doesn't matter which connector you use as the breakers are in parallel but follow the picture for simplicity.

[MIMF]

Allen,

You have it exactly correct! Let me expound on that further for the benefit of everyone reading this.

By attaching two circuit breakers parallel, you end up with all kinds of options. For exanple, if you need 80 amps, there are a couple ways to get 80 amps. Two 40's wired in parallel or a 50 an a 30. If you need 70 amps, do a 50 and a 20 or a 30 and 40. If you only want to increase to 60, do two 30's or a 40 and 20.

Everyone understand where I am going?

If you want 90 amps, do a 40 and a 50 in parallel.

There are two keys to doing it correctly that Allen's photo shows. He has each jumper going to the same colored terminal of both breakers. It does not matter which cable is hooked to what terminal on each breaker for input and output. But, for simplicity, I suggest that the cable from the battery be hooked to the battery terminal of the first breaker and the cable going on up to the center terminal on the solenoid switch of the pump, be hooked to the auxillary terminal of the second breaker.

Once or twice each year, make sure all terminals are snug. I use open end wrenches. Back off or loosen them a half turn or so and snug them back down. You don't need two boys and a gorilla to tighten them down.

Dale

[timandsusan]

The main slide out on my 3475RL started this "pausing" when we were bringing "IN" all the slides. The main slide out is the last slide out to come in. I took the RV to the dealer last week and am still waiting for their solution. The unit is still under complete warranty -- so I thought why not let them work on it. I will post their "Fix".

[timandsusan]

Here is my report from my dealer. Took the Monty in for the "pause" in slide out operation. After a good lub job, the slide out went in and out without any "pause". I tested it before we left the dealers lot. It really worked well--smooth--no pause--no dragging sounds. So it looks like a little grease is one solution!

[RMccord]

Where on the 2005 335RLBS Mountaineer is this breaker located?
It sounds like a simple job.

[Dave e Victoria]

WOW WOW WOW....What are we saying here? Is the wrong breaker installed? Remember, breakers are not suppossed to be sized by the load, they are to be sized NO LARGER than the wire can handle - PERIOD. 16 gauge is good for 10 amps. 14 gauge is good for 15 and 12 gauge is good for 20 and so on. Before we go changing breakers, it is best to know what size wire is used in the circuit. I'm not sure off hand but for 80 amps you are talking something like 02 gauge wire. Am I missing something? What wire is used in this circuit?
Dave

[richfaa]

Hummm.. looked it up... that is a 50 amp breaker...4 gauge wire is good for 60 amps, 2 gauge for 94 amps, 6 gauge for 37 amps. I have no idea what that fat red wire is..but it had better be, according to the chart we looked at, 4 gauge or better and I think that I saw that the slides can draw 90 amps or more..Keystone would not put in a lower gauge wire that is needed....would they???

[ARJ]

A/C and D/C wire current capacities are not the same. Refer to this site and there are many others!


http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/WireCapacityChart.htm

[Trailer Trash 2]

I dont understand why all the conversation about wire size and so on, If a person was to go and compaire the wire size on the AC or DC end of our trailes to the standards of a stick house we are out of code. # 12 ga is for 20 amp (plugs) and 14 ga for a 15 amp (lights) Micro waves should be on there own circut in trailers they arn't. I could go on and on but I wont.
The Information given to me on the PDF File was from Lippert and I'll do what they sugested on the fix for stalling slides, also Dale stated that the pump will draw up to 80 anps under load then if that is the case, Keystone (Not to be confused as bashing Keystone either) has an error in the manufacturing the wiring this system system up. Lippert is just the supplier of the product not the installer, they just gave us a easy fix and it works.
Now if you are worried about wire size than dont use the fix, just re wire your pump with dob ott wire or welding cable which will handle up to 250 amps and still be flexable to route, the conectors will be your next problem to put on the small termanals on the pump.

[richfaa]

I also go, and did, with the fix suggested by Lippert..I am just curious as we had one melt down and we are not anxious to have another.

[Trailer Trash 2]

quote:Originally posted by richfaa

I also go, and did, with the fix suggested by Lippert..I am just curious as we had one melt down and we are not anxious to have another.

I agree Rich once is enugh, but I do remember a few years back there was problems with the feed wire that goes through the front battery compartment to the service pannel inside it seems they were shorting out on the hole they went through, they didn't put any gromets on the steel or around the wires, eventually they rubbed enugh to short out. the topic is some where in the old stuff area, but I bet a lot of the older members remember that topic.

[richfaa]

I do remember that post and problem..That hole now has a gromet around it as well as all the other holes that wires go through in the frame (as observed on then factory tour)Mine rubbed through on the frame itself...Isolated incident...But I am a bit sensitive to wires running every which-a-way in the underbelly.

[Trailer Trash 2]

quote:Originally posted by richfaa

I do remember that post and problem..That hole now has a gromet around it as well as all the other holes that wires go through in the frame (as observed on then factory tour)Mine rubbed through on the frame itself...Isolated incident...But I am a bit sensitive to wires running every which-a-way in the underbelly.

Sorry Rich, I can't remember where or when that post was entered or who by, maybe somebody else out there will remember and forward it to you.

Don

[Dave e Victoria]

I'd be very wary of the values in the chart for 12 volt applications that ARJ referenced. The values shown are way way over those accepted for vehicle applications. The auther of the chart even admits he is not sure and also states the values shown are for short runs. There are no short runs in an RV.

I have a chart in my hanger and will retrieve and publish it here tomorrow.
Dave