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Old 03-12-2012, 12:15 AM   #21
Tom S.
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quote:Originally posted by Champ_49

I think we sometimes over analyze things a bit. People have been jacking on the axles for as long as there has been trailers. I'm with the group of jack it up where the axles are and you won't have a problem. Its where all the weight sits anyway and all your doing is lifting that same weight that the axle supports in the first place. I think its just common sense. Lifting on the frame also tweeks the frame and that is probably just as bad as trying to jack on the axle away from the springs. Just my opinion is all.

Dave
That's why I said only raise enough to remove some of the weight off the springs. That way, the second jack is only lifting the weight of the axle and not the weight of the trailer, while the first jack is taking the weight off the axle but not raising the frame enough to twist it. BTW Guys: I use a 12 ton jack, not a 20. Brain fart there on my part!
 
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:59 AM   #22
Phil P
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Hi

If you read all of the Dexter documents you will find that they don’t recommend jacking on the axel but if it is necessary you can jack the axel at the “U” bolts.

I watched a Montana dealer jack one on the frame to work on the axels and the frame twist was so bad the large slide in the drivers side of the trailer changed position about 1 inch at the top corners. Then the expert doing the job leaned the removable jack handle against the side of the trailer.

I went to the service writer and told them I changed my mind and left.

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Old 03-12-2012, 02:28 AM   #23
1retired06
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I put a wooden block under the MorRyde Mechanism, and use a bottle jack, based on guidance from my dealer. The U bolt location is another good option.
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:49 AM   #24
Roamingusa
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Thanks again everyone ! What a great group !!!
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:32 AM   #25
Art-n-Marge
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I read the part of my book that says "no" on any part of the axle (including between the U-bolts). But I have used right under the u-bolts and found when I'm done I had to retorque the u-bolt nut since I believe lifting from there caused it to loosen.

Now I carry enough 4x4 blocks (4 pieces) to stack on top of each other, then jack up from the frame with my 6 ton bottle jack. This might take a while, but I've only had to do this at home when performing some maintenance (then I have enough hardware to lift a whole side of the rig.

But now, since I do think we are over-analyzing, I'm think with a static load, no bouncing around like driving down the road, that changing a tire is NOT THAT BAD and the purpose of the precaution to avoid the axle is to protect the warranty from something that could be done wrong like jacking from the middle or on the wrong side of the u-bolts. If you imagine that while the tire is in the air, the other tire is NOT carrying all the weight because its on the jacks, and the far end of the axle (between the U-bolts) as close to the spindle as possible where the weight is really carried since that's where the tire is located.

At least this is a very good discussion what most us thinkers have analyzed (and LonnieB's thinking carries more weight since he's in the tire business!) and this many members can't be wrong since the reasoning is so consistent.

Don't forget to keep the trailer on the truck when doing this. I attempted this once with just the landing gear and it was NOT pretty because I started to raise the landing gear off the ground when I was jacking the frontmost tire. This means the pin weight was now being added and that weight should have been on the TV.
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:53 AM   #26
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Very good point, Art
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:14 PM   #27
Hooker
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quote:Originally posted by Art-n-Marge

Don't forget to keep the trailer on the truck when doing this.
Excellent suggestion. I initially jacked mine up, not hooked to the truck, and even though the wheels were blocked...it started to creep.
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