Is this the correct waste valve replacement

[Dave W]

Valterra TC372:

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-TC37.../dp/B002N5L9R8

[Theunz]

Looks just like the one I used, except I may have used used a little longer cable. On the waste tank the valve pulls toward the door side of the trailer necessitating a 180* bend. You want the bend as open as possible. I think the factory cable was 72"
You will be very pleased with the improvement over factory performance.

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by Theunz

Looks just like the one I used, except I may have used used a little longer cable. On the waste tank the valve pulls toward the door side of the trailer necessitating a 180* bend. You want the bend as open as possible. I think the factory cable was 72"
You will be very pleased with the improvement over factory performance.

When I fixed a minor leak a couple years ago, saw the convoluted route Keystone used to run the original way too long cable. I'll fix that routing,cut the cable to a better length plus use some sort of lube on it such as Ford's nickle based anti sieze which will never wear off.

[Arkware]

Yes. That is exactly what I used. (72" cable)

I did also ordered the 96" replacement cable and probably should have used it on the black tank because it had to be bent in an 'S' fashion to reach.

So, now I have a spare, and with the design of the Valtera valves, the cable is easy to replace.

You are doing both valves on the primary black/gray tanks, right??

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by Arkware

Yes. That is exactly what I used. (72" cable)

I did also ordered the 96" replacement cable and probably should have used it on the black tank because it had to be bent in an 'S' fashion to reach.

So, now I have a spare, and with the design of the Valtera valves, the cable is easy to replace.

You are doing both valves on the primary black/gray tanks, right??

Thought it was the right one but ya never know - thanks



I 'assume' that the 72" cable is long enough ....


Yes, both tank valves. I don't want to pull the belly cover off ever again, at least not for a 'crappy' valve change.

[Theunz]

The tighter the radius of the turn the harder the cable will be to push and pull. The 96” let’s you make the largest radius possible, but the 72” will work. There is plenty of room for the 96” if you go that route.

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by Theunz

The tighter the radius of the turn the harder the cable will be to push and pull. The 96” let’s you make the largest radius possible, but the 72” will work. There is plenty of room for the 96” if you go that route.

I guess I should have done a rough measurement while I had the basement empty and the bulkhead out on Tuesday. Oh well, I'll order up the 96" too, at least for the black tank. The gray will probably be fine with the 72"

[Dave W]

Got my valves but didn't order the 96" /$40 cable and wont unless needed. It looks like the 72" will work but still need to do the run. I may have to relocate that cable in the access box for a smooth run.



I'm in the middle of the change out now and found something interesting. Instead of LaSalle Bristol dump valves as most folks have said, had Valterra Bladex. While they are a bit different then the new ones I probably could have saved thm by rerouting or replacing the cables as their blade moves easily on the work bench The black tank cable had a turn about 6" from the pull handle then made a couple more. Oh well.

[Dave W]

The valve and cables are installed and work easily.


- 72" cables work just fine
- I replaced the 4/valve 10-32 screws with 3/4 inch long socket head cap screws. There is just not enough room on ours to use a screw driver.
- I swapped positions to allow a better, straighter run. \
- I moved the black cable with a new hole about 2" forward as the handles hit regarless of my attempts to fix that interferance.
- I used a bit of contact cement to hold the seals in place while I worked the valve into place while prying the drain line backwith a crow bar. One more hand would make that part easier.
- You will get wet. I had pretty much sanitized the black tank so no brown sludge dripping off my elbow



Not a difficult job but time consuming. I still need to put the belly cover back up and reattach and bleed the brake lines.


If others do the job, this may help a bit

[footz1941]

Did not get wet when I replaced mine. Raised the front of RV for about an hour before I started then dropped the front. Was.completely dry

[Theunz]

I used a ratchet strap to pull my drain back pipes just enough to get the new valves in. Some cut a section of pipe out and use a rubber hose to reconnect. I think that the Bristol valves are fine, it's the stranded cable that causes the issue. The Valterra cable is solid.

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by Theunz

I used a ratchet strap to pull my drain back pipes just enough to get the new valves in. Some cut a section of pipe out and use a rubber hose to reconnect. I think that the Bristol valves are fine, it's the stranded cable that causes the issue. The Valterra cable is solid.

My crow bar worked fine though a ratchet strap may have been easier doing by myself. The piping actually moved fairly easily but just needed a little bit of lever persuading



Just looking at the LaSalle-Bristol valve photos - I can't see much difference physically. The cable routing was most likely the cause of my operating problems as the valve operated freely when I tried them by hand. I'll still dump some valve lube or veggie oil in the tank to lube those seals



I just can't believe that I never saw 'Valterra' cast on the handles tho I do have kind of a low light vision problem.

[mazboy]

had the same question. I order what you have above but mine was a LaSalle.

Just buy both from Amazon and return the one you don't use.

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Sewer/La...CABEgKJffD_BwE

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by mazboy

had the same question. I order what you have above but mine was a LaSalle.

Just buy both from Amazon and return the one you don't use.

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Sewer/La...CABEgKJffD_BwE

According to etrailer, they are directly interchangeable, assuming the OEM Bristols are 'standard'.


https://www.etrailer.com/question-246943.html