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I went and bought all new, USA manufactured hardware(with certification papers). Grade-5 bolts(three radial lines on head of bolt), nuts, and lock-washers from Fastenal. I got grade-5 because that is what the original hardware was. Grade-8 may be too hard and brittle for the application, with risk of failure from fracturing.
If you decide to go that same route, make sure to emphasize that you need to have USA manufactured hardware with certs, otherwise you will just get the same old standard Chinese crap that everyone carries these days.
It was quite a bit more expensive than Chinese made hardware, but I didn't want 8 tons of rolling mass behind my truck using un-certified hardware from China. Maybe it's just me, but I just feel better about it when I'm hauling that behemoth around at freeway speed.
After unhooking all of the wiring from the pin box, removal of old pin box was done with the pin box hitched up to truck. No vertical load on the hitch, undo bolts and remove them, watch your fingers, as the pin box and hitch will want to pivot down at the rear because of the weight. Drive truck out from under 5er straight and slow, and watch closely for any binding or hang-ups.
Install new pin box the same way, only in reverse order. Definitely use a torque wrench to recommended torque value. Re-torque them after each of the first few trips just to be safe.
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