REfrigerator vent help

[Snoopy]

Was doing some spring prep work today, such as cleaning around our slide fridge vents. Pulled the top one off our MHC 352RL and found a wood panel running the width of the opening. It comes to the up to the top edge of the coil/ fin combo. Does anybody know if it is supposed to be there?
Thanks
Snoopy


images are upside down!

[Mudchief]

The opening should be the same size as your vent. That is the way it has been on our last 3 Montana's.

[dieselguy]

Depending on the model of fridge ... there are installation requirements involving baffle (plywood panels) positioning, distance from the fins, etc. For instance ... my top baffle covers up about the bottom 1.5" of my top vent opening. In your literature you have from your fiver ... there should be a booklet on your fridge and the installation requirements. Baffles make a difference and the factory isn't too precise about installing them ... that's part of the reason why some people's fridge's seem to cool better than others. Read up ... it may be per install design.

[Snoopy]

Thank you for the information. Refrigerator model 1350. Will check lit this weekend.

[1retired06]

We have a dometic 1350 and venting looks nothing like yours. No plywood. Metal baffle only at the top of the vent, angled to assist heat flow out.

[rohrmann]

The reason for the baffle is so the airflow fully goes past the cooling fins to maximize to heat removal from the system. Some units have a piece of tin used as a baffle, and a piece of plywood will do the same thing. Do not remove it, as it is supposed to be there.

[Snoopy]

Hi Bob;
Thanks for the info. I sent some pictures to Keystone today and I am awaiting their reply. I will post their recommendations as to the size and placement of this piece of wood. There is a baffle at the back of the opening that is metal and curved.
See you in a couple of months.

[Snoopy]

keystone has gotten back to me about the wood baffle. they suggested cutting it down to just under the bottom of the fins. Did it yesterday and will see if that helps keeping the temps down while we are in Yuma az next week.

[Big Piner]

I would suggest installing a couple of exhaust fans blowing air out at the top vent and another sucking air in at the lower vent. In addition install a small fan blowing against the cooling fins inside the frig. This greatly helped my 1210, now I only need to run it at a 2, 90 degrees inside the trailer and 38 degrees inside the frig. See the following youtube videos.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wVTP89-Btg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuvPHrWVUHI

[rohrmann]

I have the ARP device with two additional exhaust fans controlled by the ARP. Not sure if there are fans on your installation, but on our rig with the Norcold 1200, there are two fans mounted below the upper vent, and they are controlled by a snap switch that is mounted on the fins at the top of the unit. The snap switch failed a while back and I was able to replace it and got the factory fans working again. https://www.arprv.com/

[Snoopy]

A quick update on the cooling problems. A dometic service center in Yuma AZ, worked on our cooling problem this weekend & Monday. Changed the thermal switch, added insulation to the top and both sides of the area behind the refrigerator, adjusted the front doors to close better, and opened the plywood panel some more.Only time will tell if this works.

[suny07]

hi,

how much plywood did they remove?

Mike

[Snoopy]

about half that was there.

[Our3231CK]

If you have time could you post and after photo of how much was removed? Do you think that it has helped your fridge cooling without constantly running?

[Snoopy]

Might be very hard to do. Now have a 331rl HC.