We have a Montana 3120RL and this is the second campground we’ve been at where our water pressure is low when connected to the city port. When I turn my pump on it doesn’t turn on. When I turn the water off and turn the pump on to use tank water, my pressure isn’t much better. I don’t have a filter and my screen is clean, anyone know what else I can check, maybe a partial stuck check valve ( where ever it is)
Sounds like a flow problem. is it the same at all faucets, to just say at the kitchen?
Have you checked for clogged screens?
Get this pressure gage at Home Depot for 12 dollars to check and make sure your expectations aren`t to high. 20 to 35 lbs is the best you`ll get at most CG`s. I got tired of the floating pressure and put this pump in
(Remco (55-AQUAJET ARV Aquajet RV Series Water Pump) with a FULL FLOW water pressure regulator unlike the standard ones people buy that actually restricts the water flow, and just use the tank after filling. You put it on the PUMP at the outlet side and this keeps the pressure at a a constant 50 lbs through out the camper. More than enough pressure and the wife likes it for washing her hair. A tad pricey , but what price comfort.
Max Flow on next page can`t seem to get it on this one.
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2018.5 3791 Rear Den Montana, on the lake no 3rd A/C, Mini Split, just do it
Electric Brakes ..... Disk Brakes, it`s the only way
F350 Ford Dually 4:10`s w/bags (payload 5595 lbs) Sumo Springs 63 gal aux tank
Reese Goosebox Mor/Ryde SRE 4000 X Factors Monroe shocks.... real smooth ride
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2018.5 3791 Rear Den Montana, on the lake no 3rd A/C, Mini Split, just do it
Electric Brakes ..... Disk Brakes, it`s the only way
F350 Ford Dually 4:10`s w/bags (payload 5595 lbs) Sumo Springs 63 gal aux tank
Reese Goosebox Mor/Ryde SRE 4000 X Factors Monroe shocks.... real smooth ride
I believe the $12 pressure gauge is the right place to start; if you don't measure, you're just guessing. You should be able to isolate the problem to the campground, your RV, or just your perception.
I actually carry one of these gauges in my rig and my setup is to connect a "Y" splitter on the CG water supply. I use one side to connect the hose to my rig and the other gets the gauge connected. This also gives me a connection for the tank flush hose before I leave.
Check the actual CG pressure and probably the best place to test inside your rig is the washer cold water tap. If there's a >5psi difference, it's likely in your rig's plumbing system. A quick and cheap test for flow rates is to put a bucket, pitcher, or 1 gallon milk jug under the kitchen faucet, or even better the washer connection. Using a stopwatch, measure how long it takes to fill the container and calculate how many GPM it is flowing based on your measurement. Do not use the shower for this, they have flow restrictors built into the head or faucet. You should see a flow rate of somewhere between 10-14 GPM from the washer connection and maybe 2.5 GPM or so at your kitchen sink. Sinks are connected with 3/8" tubing which reduces the flow rate quite a bit.
Once you do the testing, post your results and we'll start troubleshooting then.
Regardless of whether you think water pressure at any campground is going to be safe, ALWAYS use a good pressure regulator. Some parks can be extremely dangerous with high pressure, and usually warn you when checking in, but not always.
This photo is of the gauge I have ahead of our pressure regulator, and fortunately the regulator was working.
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Bob & Becky
2012 3402RL
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC 4WD
Although the "time" test is a good way to determine exactly how much water is running at the end of each faucet, it is not an indicator of the pressure. All you can do is determine how many gallons are running for a specific length of time at each faucet, hot and cold and both. Each faucet will be different because of the water restrictions built into each faucet, and the size of water pipe the water is running through. Also, turning on a second faucet at the same time will reduce water "pressure" at the faucet being tested.
If you do not have pressure gage, the best you can do is to turn on the shore water spigot with no hoses attached. See how fast the water is running there. You can do the gallons per "x" amount of time if you want right there. Then compare that with the number of gallons per the same "x" amount of time in the camper, and you'll have your restriction identified.
If the rate of flow is significant at ever faucet inside the camper, then I'd start with the screen filter where your garden hose connects to the trailer. There is a little screen there and it could be clogged up. It's easy to remove and check. It's also often overlooked and not even though of.
If the rate of flow is slow when using your on-board water pump, you really need to make sure your shore water source is turned off. If shore water is turned on and you turn on your on-board water pump, your pump will not pump. Your water source is still coming from the garden hose, even if the water pump is running.
From your description, this sounds like what's happening. The outside screen is clogged and you are running your water pump with the garden hose still turn on also.
So, make sure shore water is turned off (the water spigot) and try your on-board water pump with water in your fresh water tank. Both should NOT be on at the same time. One or the other, not both.
I have a feeling your water pump will spit out a much better flow. Try it. Let us know what you find.
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2019 Montana High Country 375FL
2014 Chevy Silverado Duramax, 6.6L Dually
no 3rd A/C, Mini Split, just do it
..... Disk Brakes, it`s the only way
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