Marshall gas regulator

[mtheo]

Has anybody had problems with their gas regulator. Mine is not switching over when one tank runs dry. Had to fiddle with it to get it to swicth manually.
Mark

[sreigle]

They can do that if they get oil from the propane in there. I don't know if they can be cleaned out or if you just have to replace it. You might pull it out and see if it's oily and try cleaning it up.

Also, if yours is like ours, on the propane locker on the opposite side there is a small red regulator. Keystone put those in place because we used to have problems with the newer propane safety valves locking up when the propane bottle was opened. All that propane flowing into that long pipe to the other side made it think there was a leak. The red regulator keeps that from happening, supposedly. Those little regulators are cheap and tend to fail. I'm on my second one and when it warms up I am going to remove it and just slowly open the bottle on that side.

[stiles watson]

Did it happen to be cold outside when you tried to make the transition? Once I had the same kind of problem. Could not figure it out. But it warmed up and began to flow. When I talked to a propane guy, he said that sometimes a tiny frozen moisture crystal blocks the apperture. We finally assumed that is what happened. Never had a problem after that one event.

[ggranch]

If that little red regulator fails, they will tell you it is not servicable. It is, sort of. If you remove the red cover there is a fitting that should be turned 1/2 turn clockwise. The gas will then flow again. Info shared by a tech at Trailside RV in Grain Valley Mo. My brother tried it on his Flagstaff which failed after he attached 100# bottles to winter with. It worked! Bob

[mtheo]

Thanks for the help I'll try that before I replace it.
Mark

[ols1932]

I had trouble with my original regulator; the trouble was not with the flow of propane. It leaked propane around the switch-over lever. I replaced it and have not had any problems since. The regulator costs around $40.

Orv

[sreigle]

quote:Originally posted by ggranch

If that little red regulator fails, they will tell you it is not servicable. It is, sort of. If you remove the red cover there is a fitting that should be turned 1/2 turn clockwise. The gas will then flow again. Info shared by a tech at Trailside RV in Grain Valley Mo. My brother tried it on his Flagstaff which failed after he attached 100# bottles to winter with. It worked! Bob

Bob, thanks for that info. I will give that a try. I didn't mention before why I planned to remove that regulator. Well, I have an aftermarket inside indicator that flashes when the regulator flag goes red. I have it installed on a bedroom wall. Lately I've noticed when I switch the regulator (or it switches automatically) to that far side, the light flashes. I assume that regulator is not allowing sufficient pressure to get through. There is no leak, that bottle is opened all the time and remains full until used.

I'll try the half turn trick. Thanks.

[RRman]

Some Split bottle LP Regulator Advice is desired.
My regulator is on the street/non-door side bottle.
The Keystone Instructions refer to an "arrow", and later an "indicator", which apparently refer to the Changeover Lever as shown in the picture.
I really hate poorly written instructions and inconsistent nomenclature.

The lever was to the left, presumably pointing to my door/curbside bottle. The Indicator window showed red, and the door side bottle was empty or nearly so, was very light and taking over 6lbs to fill today. The streetside bottle with the regulator above it appears to be at least half full based on condensation/weight.

The instructions say "the arrow on the automatic gas regulator will always point to the gas bottle in service". What does that mean? Later it says the arrow should be turned to the non-empty bottle after automatic changeover.

While camping for the first time, I just opened both bottle valves and we had propane as needed while camping.

A fellow camper said the "arrow"/lever should be straight up/vertical to use both tanks...

Any explanation or advice is appreciated. Searches and Marshall Brass website did not provide the clarification sought.

Thanks from a newbie!

[HamRad]

RRman,

I'll take a shot at it. I hope I understand your concern.

The lever will point at one of 3 positions. It will be to the left or the right or straight up. Straight up is indicating that BOTH bottles are selected. Of course the bottles have to be turned on to work.

If to the left it sounds like you have the bottle on the curbside selected. When turned to the right it selects the bottle on the streetside.

This is just opposite of what I have on my rig since my regulator is on the curbside.

I always turn the selector to the right or left. I do not choose to use both bottles at once (selector straight up). I like to know when one tank is empty. Then I switch bottles (by moving the selector) and take the empty tank to fill. I find that I don't end up running out of fuel that way. Not as convenient but works for me.

After reading this I think I've only confused myself!

HamRad

[RRman]

Thanks for the clarification and reinforcing the inadequacy of the Keystone Instructions.

[ols1932]

quote:Originally posted by RRman

Thanks for the clarification and reinforcing the inadequacy of the Keystone Instructions.

I don't believe the fault lies with Keystone instructions. Those instructions that concern the operation of the RV should be given by the dealer's knowledgeable representative to the customer during the PDI.

Orv

[RRman]

I'm one of those who love to read the instructions. And I'm VERY grateful for all the good info on this board (member), RV.net and Escapees (member).
As I bought my Montana used and having been following boards for almost a year and read the online Keystone Manual, I did not get or require a complete PDI - which was somewhat foolish in retrospect. The Seller did cover and show how most systems operate. My biggest issue was making sure the tires were fully aired up - which took quite a bit of time. He provided all the instructions he had, besides the Keystone Manual, standalone component instructions for almost all onboard systems (even the flashlight). What I've found "missing" so far: Patio Awning, AC (how to use the remote was included), Winegard Antenna and systems, and Propane Regulator. All of them except for Marshall Brass had reasonable information online. I would still fault sloppy tech writers at Keystone for referring to an indicator using various terms that don't even match the provided illustration! I realize there is a tradeoff in conveying what is reasonable and concise to the normal user versus detailed system operation. In this case their printed info is possibly confusing or misleading.

Other bizarre examples of sloppy RV instructions: Dometic Refrigerator Troubleshooting Guide that never mentions an Ammonia leak as a potential problem. The Keystone Manual presents the two common Winterizing approaches, however does not explain the Water Pump T-Connection/Shutoff Valve to a length of coiled open-ended PEX hose accessible behind the screwed in panel under the sink which I deduce (based on online explanation/postings)must be for the "pump anti-freeze directly from jug through system" winterization method unmentioned in their instructions and not employed by the original owner who showed me how to wet winterize. Having a compressor I chose what I think is more environmentally friendly to blow out the lines using the adapter I found at Wal-Mart (!).

The Water Heater controls differ from what's in the Keystone Manual and Suburban manual they refer to...! For example, my Monitor panel includes a "Heater" Switch which is not shown in Keystone's Illustration of the monitor panel. I deduced that this activates the Water Heater and the default mode is Propane. I also had to deduce that turning on the Electric Switch on the Water Heater itself is required to activate the electric element, which was my second day of camping preference as Electricity was including in the campground fee... At least I hope my deductions were correct!

Our four days camping immediately after Xmas limited the aid I was able to procure from experienced campers as the days were short, we traveled quite a bit, and then it stormed/rained..

Thanks again for all the great info/advice!
As you can tell from my interest(s) and length of this post, I enjoy writing and was once an instructional developer.

[sreigle]

quote:Originally posted by ggranch

If that little red regulator fails, they will tell you it is not servicable. It is, sort of. If you remove the red cover there is a fitting that should be turned 1/2 turn clockwise. The gas will then flow again. Info shared by a tech at Trailside RV in Grain Valley Mo. My brother tried it on his Flagstaff which failed after he attached 100# bottles to winter with. It worked! Bob

Bob, I haven't removed the red regulator yet but have looked at it, trying to find a cover to remove. Can you clue me on this? I may have to pull it out to see the cover? I can't find anything that will turn or move. Thanks.

Last, I don't think those instructions in the Montana manual related to the regulator were written by Keystone. I seem to remember the same description coming with the new regulator I bought off the shelf a few years ago.

Also, when we first went to a two-bottle rv, I found the instructions for the switching regulator very confusing, as did Chas. All the talk about the "arrow" pointing this way or that confused me. To me, that lever/handle would be the tail of the arrow. So the instructions didn't seem accurate. It wasn't until someone clued me the handle is to point to the line which is "active," meaning the bottle from which it is currently drawing propane. And the red/green indicator relates to the active bottle only.