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Old 05-25-2017, 04:08 PM   #21
mr_gdr
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I'm positive mine is in my pocket door behind the shower. I put red dye in the flesh line and added pressure.. definitely in my pocket door. Red dye everywhere in their.
thanks for your reply
 
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Old 05-25-2017, 04:59 PM   #22
waynemoore
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I know some are hard to get to. I was lucky my valve was under the sink in the bedroom as such the lines were in the basement. Ease to get to.
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Old 05-26-2017, 07:49 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by mr_gdr View Post
I'm positive mine is in my pocket door behind the shower............
What year and model is your Montana? And what is on the other side of your pocket door?

My anti siphon valve was also between my shower and the pocket door. And the pocket door is between the shower and my entry closet. The entry closet has an opening covered with a plastic cover on the back wall. But that opening was not located where the valve was. But after closing the pocket door I could see the back wall of the shower and I could reach in and feel the valve below and to the left. So I cut a new opening in that area to access the valve. You can see that in this picture.



I eliminated the valve with elbows and a short piece of PEX. You can see that this picture was taken after I had winterized with the pink stuff.



Using the piece of panel I cut out and making a frame out of some scrap wood I had and staining it, the cover looks better than the plastic one.

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Old 05-07-2019, 01:08 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by BB_TX View Post
What year and model is your Montana? And what is on the other side of your pocket door?

My anti siphon valve was also between my shower and the pocket door. And the pocket door is between the shower and my entry closet. The entry closet has an opening covered with a plastic cover on the back wall. But that opening was not located where the valve was. But after closing the pocket door I could see the back wall of the shower and I could reach in and feel the valve below and to the left. So I cut a new opening in that area to access the valve. You can see that in this picture.



I eliminated the valve with elbows and a short piece of PEX. You can see that this picture was taken after I had winterized with the pink stuff.



Using the piece of panel I cut out and making a frame out of some scrap wood I had and staining it, the cover looks better than the plastic one.

I know I'm reviving an old thread, but I now have the same problem. I have a 2008 3400RL and I'm pretty sure that this valve is also in the wall between the shower and the pantry. I see an access panel when I open the pantry door.

So, I'm guess what's happening is that this valve is bad, so that when I put water into the exterior flush fitting, it travel up and out this bad valve, into the wall, and out the side of the RV.

From what I'm reading, the solution is to just take out the valve and just replace it with two elbows since the anti-siphon valve really isn't needed because the odds of it back flowing are really slim? Is the anti-siphon valve supposed to prevent the black tank contents from coming back into the water supply hose that you've hooked up to the exterior flush fitting?
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Old 05-07-2019, 03:25 PM   #25
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Yes, it prevents back flow from your black tank into the parks water supply. If you eliminate it do everyone a favor and for under $10 you can purchase a vacuum breaker that will fit on the end of your flush hose. You do use a separate flush hose don't you?
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Old 05-07-2019, 03:29 PM   #26
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Yes, it prevents back flow from your black tank into the parks water supply. If you eliminate it do everyone a favor and for under $10 you can purchase a vacuum breaker that will fit on the end of your flush hose. You do use a separate flush hose don't you?
I've read numerous posts explaining the difference between a vacuum breaker (allows air into the system) and a one-way valve/backflow preventer.

I understand that with a vacuum breaker in the line, when I disconnect the hose, it allows air into the line and lets the water in the line drain into both the black tank and out of the hose connection. However, I really don't want to chance the having a replacement anti-siphon valve leaking again inside the RV so I am very reluctant to replace it with another AS valve -- especially after reading about others who have had the replacement valve leak also. I also see that by not replacing it, I'll need to winterize that connection when the time comes.

If you mean a backflow preventer, yes, if I eliminate the anti-siphon valve in the wall, I will put a one-way valve/backflow preventer where the hose connects to the black tank flush fitting.
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Old 05-07-2019, 05:47 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by daveinaz View Post
.........
From what I'm reading, the solution is to just take out the valve and just replace it with two elbows since the anti-siphon valve really isn't needed because the odds of it back flowing are really slim? Is the anti-siphon valve supposed to prevent the black tank contents from coming back into the water supply hose that you've hooked up to the exterior flush fitting?
The chance of getting black tank contents back in the fresh water is very unlikely. But it s possible.

If you have ever had the water company shut off water to your neighborhood, you most likely ended up with lots of air in your house water lines. That’s because the water running out of the lowest points in the supply lines pulled a vacuum on the pipes sucking all the water out of all the lines. If you had removed that valve, and if you connected the flush line, opened the water valve not knowing water had been shutoff, that resulting vacuum would pull anything in that flush line back toward the supply line. And that would be your water faucet where you, and everyone else, are getting your fresh water. That’s why lawn sprinkler systems are required to have anti siphon valves.
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Old 05-07-2019, 06:10 PM   #28
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The chance of getting black tank contents back in the fresh water is very unlikely. But it s possible.

If you have ever had the water company shut off water to your neighborhood, you most likely ended up with lots of air in your house water lines. That’s because the water running out of the lowest points in the supply lines pulled a vacuum on the pipes sucking all the water out of all the lines. If you had removed that valve, and if you connected the flush line, opened the water valve not knowing water had been shutoff, that resulting vacuum would pull anything in that flush line back toward the supply line. And that would be your water faucet where you, and everyone else, are getting your fresh water. That’s why lawn sprinkler systems are required to have anti siphon valves.
I understand the concept of backflow created by uneven pressures/suction, etc. However, I don't think your example applies to this scenario. A house is hard plumbed to the city supply -- more of a closed system where you get the suction you mentioned. If the anti-siphon valve is removed, there is simply an open line going from the hose inlet at the convenience center straight to the tank sprinkler. Since the valve was located at the highest point of that particular line, it seems that without any valving, any water left in the pipe after the tank is flushed, when you disconnect the hose to the inlet, would simply drain to either the holding tank or the hose inlet, depending on which side it is.

The only way that you would get back flushing from the black tank to the hose inlet is if the water pressure changed direction, ie, the pressure from the black tank became greater than the pressure from the inlet hose.

IF the hose were left connected to the inlet 24/7, I get what you are saying but since the hose is disconnected after you flush the tank, I don't see your scenario happening.

If I remove the anti-siphon valve, I will put an anti-siphon valve on the hose inlet, just in case, but like I said, since the black tank will be empty before it's flushed, unless all the planets align, it is unlikely, IMO, that you would ever have a chance at backflow into the connected hose.

Still, I suppose there is always that off chance that you could get blockage in the flushing pipes that could overcome the pressure you're putting into it and create a potential backflow situation. That's why, like i said, I'll put an anti-siphon valve at the inlet where the hose connect to prevent the ever-so-small chance of it happening.
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Old 05-07-2019, 06:18 PM   #29
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I understand the concept of backflow created by uneven pressures/suction, etc. However, I don't think your example applies to this scenario. A house is hard plumbed to the city supply -- more of a closed system where you get the suction you mentioned. If the anti-siphon valve is removed, there is simply an open line going from the hose inlet at the convenience center straight to the tank sprinkler. Since the valve was located at the highest point of that particular line, it seems that without any valving, any water left in the pipe after the tank is flushed, when you disconnect the hose to the inlet, would simply drain to either the holding tank or the hose inlet, depending on which side it is.

The only way that you would get back flushing from the black tank to the hose inlet is if the water pressure changed direction, ie, the pressure from the black tank became greater than the pressure from the inlet hose.

IF the hose were left connected to the inlet 24/7, I get what you are saying but since the hose is disconnected after you flush the tank, I don't see your scenario happening.

If I remove the anti-siphon valve, I will put an anti-siphon valve on the hose inlet, just in case, but like I said, since the black tank will be empty before it's flushed, unless all the planets align, it is unlikely, IMO, that you would ever have a chance at backflow into the connected hose.

Still, I suppose there is always that off chance that you could get blockage in the flushing pipes that could overcome the pressure you're putting into it and create a potential backflow situation. That's why, like i said, I'll put an anti-siphon valve at the inlet where the hose connect to prevent the ever-so-small chance of it happening.
If you look at the pictures of mine that I posted above, you will see the pink antifreeze in the flush lines even though the line is not connected to a hose. The antifreeze did not drain either direction, staying in all winter. Without the atmospheric vent it cannot get air up the lines to displace the water.
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Old 05-11-2019, 07:22 PM   #30
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Its pretty simple. Remove the panel covering the back of the convivence center. Locate the back side of the black flush connection. Follow the line to where it goes up into the RV. On my unit red is hot water blue is cold. These lines should be white. So the 2 white lines going up should be to the vacuum breaker. Cut both lines in the basement and connect them together.
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Old 05-12-2019, 07:22 AM   #31
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I took out my defective valve yesterday. From the looks of it, it had been defective since its original install. The inside of it looks brand new. It appears that whichever gorilla at the factory installed it over tightened it and behind the fitting. I couldn't even get the broken threads out of the fitting.

Oh, and the so-called access panel in the pantry accessed nothing. There was NOTHING, no pipes behind it. The valve was about six inches to the left of the panel. So I had to cut another hole to get to the valve.
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