JT Stabilizers - Montana Owners Club

randye · 03-17-2010, 06:03 AM

HI I just installed the JT Strong Arms and the rear jack area was hard to see were their might be a cross member for the spacers and swing bolts, which I need two more of the shorter ones 1 1/4 inch. My Montana is the 3485SA, can anyone tell me were the cross member is. I can see where the cover bends around under a few small screws that hold it down, but they say you should have no more than 18" of offset and that would be about 21 or 22". It would be a great help so I don't have to cut the black under belly to exspose the cross members. Can anyone help thanks randye.

dieselguy · 03-17-2010, 06:20 AM

Several have just added a piece of angle iron or square tube running from frame rail to frame rail to accomodate the JT's. You'll be pleased once you get them completely installed.

BB_TX · 03-17-2010, 08:27 AM

I also could not locate a cross member on my 3075RL without removing the underbelly cover. Based on some one else's suggestion (and I can't remember who now), I added a cross member made of 2" square tubing that bolts to the frame on each side behind the rear stabilizers. He recommended 2"x3" tubing, but I already had a piece of 2"x2" so I used it. I seem to remember him saying adding a cross member was a JT recommendation.
Each end of the tubing was cut at a 45 degree angle and two holes drilled in each end. Half inch bolts then used to bolt it to the frame and the JTs mounted to the tube. The 3" wide tubing would give better bolt spacing, but the 2" worked OK. He also posted pictures and gave the exact length to cut the tubing. He had a local steel fabricator cut it for him. I had the steel already and a chop saw and cut my own.
I did a search for that thread, but could not find it. I think it was well over a year ago.
Now having said all that, there have been some that did find a cross member and used it. Maybe either or both will repost what they did.

Exnavydiver · 03-17-2010, 12:02 PM

When I installed the JT's on our rig I was in contact with the inventor of the JT's while he still owned the company. He is the one that told me to use the 2x3 steel box channel. For our rig I use a piece 71 inches long with a 45 degree angle cut on each end so as to make it easier to bolt it to the frame. Some folks have just attached it to the OEM hitch frame (Dennis mail2us) for one. This works very well also. If you need photos let me know, I posted them on here also... Dave P.S. Here is the photo Link

scottclara · 03-21-2010, 09:05 PM

For the fokes that have these on the Montys how does everyone like them I was going to buy them in the next few weeks and install them on my Monty just wanted to see if they make a big differance.. Thanks Scott

Johnnyg · 03-22-2010, 03:10 AM

I just got around to installing the JT's on the front of my 3665RE. The installation is very easy with some basic tools and sharp drill bits. Everything is packaged clearly and I was even able to understand the instruction.
I discovered the floor of the front compartment is very thin and not supported very well where the bracket is installed. As a result when the trailer is pushed from side to side the floor will flex up and down canceling its stabilizing effect.
I'm in the process of installing some sort of cross member to stiffen this area up.

Exnavydiver · 03-22-2010, 04:17 AM

I didn't have that problem with mine, the sheet metal on our 08 Big Sky was thin but with the two sets of spacers they supply you with the JT's it made the installation just fine, I don't have any flex in mine. This may be because of the amount of "stuff" I have shoved in there but I have not seen or felt any wiggle or flex in that area... Dave

Johnnyg · 03-22-2010, 04:48 AM

I noticed in the photos you posted that the front edge of you compartment floor extends down further than mine. Maybe that adds sone stability.
Further inspectiion on mine revealed the compartment floor isnt attached to the interior front wall of the trailer. I'm going to install some screws along that area but still plan to mount some tube stock or angle and extend it out to the main I beams.

Exnavydiver · 03-22-2010, 05:10 AM

OK, that would "splain" the excess flex in yours then, my floor is attached to the front, side and back walls...

randye · 03-22-2010, 10:38 AM

Hi I have another question, the instructions say, to let the front of the fiver down below the rear then extend the rear jacks evenly and tighten the T handles then bring up the front level tighten the T handles all 4 and then bump it up slightly. My question is in the past I forgot to lift up the rear jacks and it blew a fuse because to much pressue on the back jacks and the ground may be lower in the back than the front. We are leaving Casa Grande, Az the 31st of March and will head and stay in Leeds Ut I will try it there. When we get to the North Rim Grand Canyon the 29th of April the site is Asphalt and should be fairly level and I can get a better idea if that is the way to set it up. Still get alittle movement without the Kin Pin under the nose. Not as bad I think its better.

exav8tr · 03-22-2010, 05:32 PM

The "Bump" you refer to is just a second or less bump. We have been doing it for two years and no problems, just don't bump very long.

BB_TX · 03-23-2010, 05:06 AM

I "bump" mine also as per the instructions. Then I shake the front struts to make sure they are tight. If not, I will bump it a little more until they are tight.
Then I shake the rear struts to make sure they are tight. If not, I will use the crank handle to slightly raise or lower the stabilizers until those struts are tight.

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