Water Heater - Montana Owners Club

NCFischers · 12-21-2008, 07:41 AM

When we picked up our Monty last month, the technician went over the unit with us but we wound up with information overload. Now I want to de-winterize her but I've hit a stumbling block with the water heater. We didn't get an owners manual for the water heater so I'm having to use the WAG method of figuring it out. I know that I need to install the anode rod that is laying loose in the outside compartment. There is a toggle switch that is a tad confusing. The bottom is labled "on" and the top is labled "off". If I push "on", the switch is in the normally off position for a switch. Sometimes I think that they do this stuff on purpose just to screw with us. The switch was in the down/on position when we picked her up. Aside from that, what is the procedure for de-winterizing, filling, flushing and heating water with propane and electricity? I'm trying not to burn anything out. I hate to have to pay for a repair without ever using it.

racerjoe · 12-21-2008, 08:08 AM

If the switch you are talking about is the one on the heater itself, it is the one to run the heater on electric and not gas. Make sure that switch is not on unless you have water in the tank and you are hooked up to power of course. With no water, it will burn the electric element up.

Exnavydiver · 12-21-2008, 08:13 AM

Jim, the switch should have a small hair pin through the bottom of it. This pin locks the switch off during storage or winterizing. If the pin is not there then take a flashlight and look on the side of the rocker switch for the hole. when that hold is visible the switch is off. Leave it off till you have the whole water system filled. Take some Teflon tape and wrap the anode threads and screw it back into the heater. Check the service center and make sure the valve for the water heater is not in the winterize position (bypassed). Hook up the water and turn it on. It will take awhile to fill the heater, I am assuming that since the rig is an 09 that it has a 12 gallon heater. You can help it fill a bit faster if you open the safety valve (pressure relief valve) and vent the air out of it. When you turn on the gas there will be air in the lines so it will take several cycles to get gas to the water heater. Starting the furnace and running the stove burners first will get most of the air out before trying the heater... I hope this helps.... Dave

hookman · 12-21-2008, 09:49 AM

Make sure you flush all the RV Antifreeze out of the system before you turn the from bypass to normal as you don't want antifreeze in the hot water tank. Then open your tapes to bleed the air out of both systems

NCFischers · 12-21-2008, 10:11 AM

Well, I checked the switch and it was in the on position (the way we received it from the dealer)and there was no pin. There's a good chance that the element is burned out since the circuit breaker was on. There might also be a small bit of antifreeze in the heater (my fault) that I'll need to flush out. After the Holidays, I'll drain the antifreeze and check it out. Since the Monty is in the barn when not in use, I won't need to use anitfreeze, I'll just blow the lines out from now on. Thanks for the help, guys.

The Old Fogies · 12-21-2008, 12:35 PM

Jim you may still be OK with the elements. On my 3665 I have to also turn on the 110v for the water heater on thre control center inside the rig. I'm thinking that the switch at the heater in safety cutoff for storage or working on the unit.

H. John Kohl · 12-21-2008, 02:01 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Exnavydiver

Jim, the switch should have a small hair pin through the bottom of it. This pin locks the switch off during storage or winterizing. If the pin is not there then take a flashlight and look on the side of the rocker switch for the hole. when that hold is visible the switch is off. Leave it off till you have the whole water system filled. Take some Teflon tape and wrap the anode threads and screw it back into the heater. Check the service center and make sure the valve for the water heater is not in the winterize position (bypassed). Hook up the water and turn it on. It will take awhile to fill the heater, I am assuming that since the rig is an 09 that it has a 12 gallon heater. You can help it fill a bit faster if you open the safety valve (pressure relief valve) and vent the air out of it. When you turn on the gas there will be air in the lines so it will take several cycles to get gas to the water heater. Starting the furnace and running the stove burners first will get most of the air out before trying the heater... I hope this helps.... Dave

I would NEVER argue with Dave, but instead of using the pressure relief valve I would open the hot water low drain point at the convince center and let the air purge out of the hot water heater there. The cold low drain point will have water immediately while the hot will have more air because of filling the hot water heater.
I do not like using the pressure relief valve because I feel it weakens it.
Good luck.

Exnavydiver · 12-21-2008, 03:16 PM

good point John, although mine has always dripped a tiny bit... Dave

Waynem · 12-21-2008, 04:01 PM

John has a good point. Also, the rush of water out of the pressure relief valve could bring a particle of that mess on the anode and lodge in the pressure relief valve. That will also cause it to leak. I know many have used the pressure relief valve, but I personally will not use it.

FLSTS03 · 12-23-2008, 10:30 AM

The lever on the T&P valve is used as a test lever and not an air bleeding valve. I have seen Water Heater manufactures say to use it to bleed air, I personally have no problems using the lever to bleed some air(master plumber/wholesale business 30+ yrs). If the T&P fails to open I want it to fail while I'm there and not when pressure/temp calls it to release and it won't. The biggest argument is trash lodging and simply can't stop the valve from leaking, but they are cheap and keeping a spare sure wouldn't hurt. Just my opinion... Steve

lfw · 12-23-2008, 11:52 AM

Which is the best way to winterize the Monty.. Just add antifreeze into the lines with the water that is all ready there.. or blow out all the lines with air pressure and then put antifreeze in the lines?
Thanks.
lfw

8.1al · 12-23-2008, 02:20 PM

I just open a faucet to bleed the air off the hot water. I'm not sure that's the best way but it seems to work ok.

SlickWillie · 12-23-2008, 03:30 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by 8.1al

I just open a faucet to bleed the air off the hot water. I'm not sure that's the best way but it seems to work ok.

I was beginning to think I was the only one that does that. Gets the air out of the lines too.

**Rondo** · 12-23-2008, 06:58 PM

lfw-- Your question could be widespread for answers! Each has their own preference. Since I'm in Nebraska and it gets REALLY cold here, I pump the "pink stuff" thoughout the unit. If you go to the Search engine above on this page, click on it and type winterizing into the subject line, you will come up with about 24 threads on winterizing. IF you have any questions after reading the threads PM me and we can discuss it. I do have the bypass valves inplace on our unit to save from getting the "pink stuff" from going into the water heater. It normally only takes me about a gallon and a half to two gallons to do the whole unit and that includes dumping some down each drain to fill the traps and the outside shower.

BB_TX · 12-24-2008, 04:13 AM

I would also suggest getting one of the flush wands (available from CW and other RV places) to flush out the tank before de-winterizing. We got our Monty July 07 and only used it about 20 days before having to winterize it last year. When I pulled the anode rod to drain the tank, there was a very large amount of crystal like substance came out of the tank. It ended up all over me

as well as spread across the drive. Not sure if it was all from the anode rod decay or something else.

simonsrf · 12-27-2008, 11:39 AM

Flushed out the hot water tank today with the wand and checked the annode...a yearly thing. Opened all three faucets to bleed the air, no problem so far, hope I did it the right way. We have hot water!

ols1932 · 12-27-2008, 12:37 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by BB_TX

I would also suggest getting one of the flush wands (available from CW and other RV places) to flush out the tank before de-winterizing. We got our Monty July 07 and only used it about 20 days before having to winterize it last year. When I pulled the anode rod to drain the tank, there was a very large amount of crystal like substance came out of the tank. It ended up all over me

as well as spread across the drive. Not sure if it was all from the anode rod decay or something else.

That's normal. Just think that if you didn't have the anode rod what the water would be doing to the lining of your tank! The purpose of the anode rod has been fulfilled! That stuff you flush out is from the anode rod and is normal.

Orv

You may also like: