Dump valve cable issues

[Michael J.]

2016, 3000RE purchase used from family widow. First trip out, not sure which gray water tank (if more than 1) the valve next to the black water tank valve opens, seems the one under the slide out dumped out way more. Upon trying to figure if there was another tank I broke the cable trying to operate the valve, it was very difficult to open. Seems the cable idea is not so great as they don't seal well, anyone install the electric type, how difficult are the valves to get to, appears I have to remove the belly pan even to get a peek. Seems the gray water valve next to the black water valve would be the primary one, had no clue the other valve was there, just happened to find it. The owners manual seems to be a general manual for several trailers. thanks

[Theunz]

The valve next to the black tank is your shower and bathroom sink. The one all by itself is the galley. Most here just replace the OEM valves with Valterra cable valves which are much better. OEM uses stranded cable, while Valterra uses a solid cable. The Valterra valves work much better. A few here have indeed gone to the electric valves. Do a search and you will find many posts on the valves.

[Michael J.]

Thanks, I did see some comments on Valterra cables, did notice factory are stranded cables, I had issue with gray water in discharge line when I went to dump, didn't enjoy the extra shower and attention as I scrambled to hook hose up, wife thought it was funny. seems one of the valve is not closing 100 percent. owner before me always used full hookup so he may have not known issue was there. difficult to ask questions as he is no longer with us, but he did a lot of upgrades. Are the valves difficult to get to? I crawled under and is obvious I have to remove belly pan unless there is top access?

Thanks for the help!
we continue to learn

[Montana Man]

If you enjoy working on dump tanks, continue using cable style pulls. Otherwise convert over to direct pull style valves.

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by Michael J.

thought it was funny. seems one of the valve is not closing 100 percent

Welcome to the seeping dump valve club.


Ours has seeped since new so I, like many others, just installed a Valterra gate valve on the end of the dump line and leave it in place, securely held there by a worm screw clamp Conundrum.



After installation, remove end cap, install stinky-slinky hose pull the Valterra handle then your tank valve handle. When done, reverse the process.


I start the season by dumping a quart or so cheap Walmart (<$5 gallon) vegetable oil into each tank via a sink or the toilet. I then add a gallon or so of water to 'float' the oil. This then will usually loosen the often stuck blade seal on the valve. I also try to squirt some penetrating oil past the handle end ferrule - PB Blaster or similar, WD-40 is useless. You may not get it completely down the cable but it does seem to help. Others have said to use a motorcycle cable luber - didn't work for me.


The electric dump valves are nice but too costly for our needs.

[Michael J.]

Sorry to be in the unknown, but our camper is a 4 season, haven't looked at valve location but is it possible to go to direct connect, I'm under the impression cable or electric is the only choice?

Thanks again

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by Michael J.

Sorry to be in the unknown, but our camper is a 4 season, haven't looked at valve location but is it possible to go to direct connect, I'm under the impression cable or electric is the only choice?

Thanks again

Depending on how the dump valves are located, but yes, you might be able to modify them to a rod pull of your design, using the replacement and much better Valterras. I looked at ours when I had to pull the Coroplast down for other reasons. To do that would I probably need a bell crank along with some supporting framework and be operated on the opposite, curb side of the RV.


When you pull the Coroplast belly covering down, you will probably find that the existing and probably too long operating cables are routed in a circuitous manner. The replacement can be shortened and run mych better plus can be lubed before installation, and a project that I'll eventually have to make when the veggie oil and PB Blaster wont work again

[Michael J.]

Thanks everyone for the information, should've done search as suggested, see that this has been smelly subject with lots of answers to the same questions. new to the forum but lots of good information as I had been visiting the site previously before making it official. Will respond once I get down to the task at hand and completed. Thanks again and enjoy your day!