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Old 06-04-2008, 10:39 AM   #21
sreigle
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oceanside
Posts: 20,028
M.O.C. #20
Jim, couldn't you air up the bags before starting to hitch? That's what I used to do on the two tow vehicles we had with airbags. I used to do that with the two tow vehicles we had with airbags. Or are your airbags on the hitch or pinbox rather than truck suspension? Just wondering.

 
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Old 06-16-2008, 07:03 AM   #22
Ms McGyver
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Virginia Beach
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M.O.C. #8531
We almost did that by mistake yesterday. You will most likely burst your bags due to over pressurization. For example, if we pressured up to 70lbs before hitching, we'd probably end up at 110 or 120lbs after. The bags are rated for 100 lbs. Bang! Worse yet, if they didn't burst while standing still, they might at the first big bump in the road.

The only safe way to pressure up before hitching is to note how much pressure you need when loaded, (for us it's 70lbs) then unhitch and measure again. This last measure would be the setting for a pre-hitch bag pressure. It should be significantly lower than the loaded pressure. Of course, this setting will vary if you are traveling through various altitudes and air temperatures.

It doesn't really matter which way you work it, just be consistent. Your co-pilot has her chores to do while you do yours. Do what works for you.
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Old 08-14-2008, 02:36 AM   #23
Colden
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Join Date: Aug 2005
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M.O.C. #4400
Here is my exception.
I constructed one of those little 1 to 1 1/2 inch levels with magnetic tape stuck to the back. You can use a pair of scissors, or a razor to trim it to size after sticking it.

Wayne, that's a great idea and a nice time saver too! Since I've started taking the camper to work then home (so we can enjoy an extra night out) I dont have Jim there telling me when it looks level so we can back up the truck.

I love the tips from MOC!!!!
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Old 08-14-2008, 02:47 AM   #24
Colden
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Ms McGyver
[When hitching, back under the kingpin but don't hitch up, yet. Connect your umbilical so you can employ the trailer brakes, then back into the kingpin. ... Another method is to measure the distance from the end of the brake cable to the ground just after unhitching. ...To ensure that you have enough space between the hitch and the king pin when unhitching, paint one end of a paint stirrer with red paint.

Great tips Lisa, Thanks. I esp like the paint stirrer tip.
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Old 08-14-2008, 05:12 AM   #25
gojodo
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I guess I will chime in here as well because my wife can hitch and unhitch the rig by herself if necessary. However, we find it is easiest if we both contribute. To unhitch: We first check the side to side level, mounted on the hitch pin. If not in the center then we lay out leveler blocks and pull or push the trailer up on the blocks. Then we place tire chocks on both sides. Then I lower the landing gear but first check to see where the bubble is on my front to back level, mounted above the landing gear switch. If the bubble is to the right of center I extend the landing gear for about 3 inches before dropping them to the ground. This gives me room to level it out after I'm unhitched. Next I extend the landing gear until my wife yells at me that she can see a little light where the 5th wheel connects to the hitch. Then she backs the truck up very slowly and I pull the lever holding the hitch in place. Then when I tell her I'm ready she pulls the truck forward a foot or so and I complete unplugging the electrical cord and safety line. Then she pulls out all the way. I then mark my front to back level so I can return to this point on hitch up. Then I retract the landing gear until the rig is level front to back. All done.
To Hitch: This is simply the reverse process but potentially more dangerous. First I raise the landing gear to the point where I marked it upon unhitching. (There is a level which lets you move a slide front and back to mark this spot). Then my wife backs up the truck to the hitch pin. I stand by the rear wheel watching and she has her window down waiting for me to let her know if there is any problem. As she backs into the hitch pin it should be positioned so that it squeezes down the hitch plate and I should see the release arm kick out then go back in. She then stops the truck. Now is when I visually go behind the hitch pin and look at the jaws grabbing the hitch pin itself. They need to be closed. If not I lower the rig slightly and they usually close. Once they are closed I plug in the electrical cord and the safety line. Then I raise the landing gear all the way. Then remove the wheel chucks and check to see that the break lights are working in the trailer. Occasionally my wife and I trade off these assignments in order to keep ourselves cross trained. This has helped us and I might add, my wife had to move our rig by herself from the North rim the the Grand Canyon, 50 miles up to Knab, UT. last year. We were happy she knew what to do. John
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Old 08-14-2008, 06:29 AM   #26
Waynem
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Don't forget that depending on your springs on the tV, they may raise a tad more after being unhitched for awhile. The level is a reference point. It's still a good idea to visually check. Having it an inch lower is not going to hurt as you bump the trailer into the hitch, having it higher will not let the jaws close and you may have to lower the trailer some. Also, having it higher and lowering the trailer may bind against a partially closed jaw. Better to be a tad on the low side with the trailer and slide it onto the hitch. Just my humble opinion.

Jan, I added a second magnetic backed level just as a second opinion. Actuall it's a little bigger than the first one. Works well.
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