TIRE ""CHOCK"" ALERT

[Hemlockusa]

I know all the expert Full Timers probably don't need this information but I have found that the tire chock's need a little more attention than just putting them on and tightening them down.
This last two weeks we traveled through four states stopping several times. My routine is to find LEVEL, then I have home made 4X4 chock's top and bottom with a 3/4 inch all thread, when you tighten it down he chocks move togeather and thus clamp the tire's. Well I have found that when I do this right after getting off the highway the tire's are STILL HOT from traveling. after several hours, after I had unhooked I found both chocks LOOSE. Of course the tire's cooled and retracted. So a person should RECHECK after several hours, and tighten those chocks, I think you will be surprised how loose those chocks will get. We don't need any of our great members out there hurt.....
Safe Travels John

[LonnieB]

Thanks John, that's good advise.

[stiles watson]

Experience is a great teacher. Glad you were listening and thanks for sharing. Happy RVing....

[Fordzilla]

Great advise John, have had that happen tome before and now it is part of my routine to double check them after I am almost all set up to tighten them up another notch or two.

[Steve and Brenda]

Here's a lesson learned from someone that recently upgraded from a 27' travel trailer to our first 5th wheel. We went on a "shakedown cruise" at a lake about 50 miles from the house last weekend to make sure everything worked before venturing away from the nest for real.

As an engineer I assume worst case scenario and both chock and lock the wheels when parked. I figured that all my gear from the trailer would integrate into the 5er just fine. Turns out that the plastic chocks I used to lock the wheels while leveling crush under the Montana's weight when rolled on - need some bigger chocks. The wheel locking chocks I always used to apply pressure to the tires needed major adjustment to do the same job - and my trusty 1/2" dogbone wrench was on my pegboard in the garage so many small turns with a box wrench was required.

Man, this thing is a monster!!

[RADHAZJOE]

For everyones info, you can order the big black rubber chocks that truckers use from any U-haul store. They take a few days to come in but no 5th wheel will ever crush them.

[Old GI]

Needless to say I am very conscious of my chocks, especially after my last trip. Thanks for the good info.

[bsmeaton]

Right or wrong - I gave those wheel clamps a toss last month. After spending $350 for a new alignment I don't want anything spreading my wheels and they were a pain to maintain and operate. I also believe they gave me a false sense of security, as I too have jerked them out without even releasing them after the tire cools.

I'm going to stick to heavy duty standard wheel chocks.

[tcorbitt]

Good reminder... tire cooling and shrinking will impact just about any chock setup. In addition to re-adjusting after cooldown, I have long been a fan of pulling the break-away cable before unhitching, locking the brakes. After final leveling, setup and getting settled down, re-adjust the chocks and then replace the break-away cable. Use the same proceedure when getting ready to leave. First pull break-away cable and place on dash. After hooking up the 5ht, remove chocks, raise landing gear enough to take up the weight and then give the 5th a little tug with the TV. Great way to double check the hitch and brakes.

TC

[Steve and Brenda]

quote:Originally posted by tcorbitt

...In addition to re-adjusting after cooldown, I have long been a fan of pulling the break-away cable before unhitching, locking the brakes...

I'm not sure that the electric brakes are designed for such long duty-cycle operation. I bet its worked for you but what you describe raises alarm bells in the back of my head. Again, it is the engineer in me always thinking worst case scenario but if the brakes are applied by an electromagnetic solenoid you could be charring the works similar to running the starter motor on an engine for long duration.

[LonnieB]

I don't know how much damage you may be doing to the electric magnet, but I wonder how effective this method can be. The magnet being energized when the breakaway pin is pulled is correct, however, the brakes are not actually applied until the wheel turns enough for the actuator arm to move the brake shoes apart, thus applying the brakes. If the wheels are chocked, they cannot turn enough to apply the brakes. I'm not an engineer, but I am a mechanic.

[Gpa_Dick]

You are so right Steve and Brenda. I had the same problem switching from my 27' trailer to the Montana 3400. My plastic chocks bent too easily. So, I went to CW and got the big yellow chocks which do a much better job. I also use the metal chock locks not for chocking as much as buffering the trailer movement (forward and aft) while walking.

-Dick

[Steve and Brenda]

quote:Originally posted by LonnieB

I'm not an engineer, but I am a mechanic.

Lonnie, so the only thing these brakes have is a magnet to engage the drum? Thought there'd be an actuator or something. Still, wonder if the wiring to the brakes are robust enough for the constant current flow.

Mechanics bring harmony to the stupid things engineers design Ever want to punch the design engineer for the way they placed a part requiring a special tool? I certainly do!

[tcorbitt]

Interesting observations re: the break-away switch. This little trick was suggested to me years ago by the dealer we purchased our travel trailer from. Just assumed the Monty brakes work the same and continued the practice. I am generally only leaving the pin pulled for 10-15mins. My only concern was the battery, never considered any wear to the brakes, magnets, etc. Also, in my case, the brakes lock as soon as the pin is pulled. I can hear them grab, no motion required to engage. The same dealer also recommended pulling this pin when a tire needed to be changed for what it is worth.

Now all this was 10 years ago, maybe the basic design of electric brakes and breakaways has changed since then?

TC

[LonnieB]

Steve, I know what you mean about punching the engineer,lol. No offense intended. Engineers are a necessary part of life we cannot live without. I thimk engineer schools however, need to add some common sense into their teaching .
tcorbitt, I haven't physically looked at the brakes on my Montana, but every electric brake I have ever worked on functioned the same way. When electric power is applied to the electro magnet, it attaches itself to the sidewall of the brake drum, this may be the sound you hear. The turning motion of the drum pulls the magnet whichever way the drum is turning. The magnet is attached to an actuator arm that moves with the magnet and spreads open the brake shoes. This action is what causes the shoes to become tight against the brake drum stopping the wheel from turning. I don't know for certain if the Montana's have this type of brake, it's just the only type of electric drum brake I have ever seen. I will look into it and let you know. There are folks on here that have worked on their brakes and already know the answer, and I'm sure someone can help us out.

[8.1al]

Lonnie is correct, if the wheels aren't turning the brakes won't actuate.

[Steve and Brenda]

quote:Originally posted by 8.1al

Lonnie is correct, if the wheels aren't turning the brakes won't actuate.

So pulling the brake cable just runs bunches of current through an electromagnet draining the battery and putting unnecessary strain on the DC converter.

[NJ Hillbilly]

The brakes would only do something if the trailer rolled 6-12", I would bet the farm that the magnets aren't rated for continous duty.

Chock and block, don't rely on the brakes to hold.

John