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Old 05-20-2008, 03:37 AM   #1
garyka
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12 volt system

I have a problem with my 12-volt system in my 2005 3295rk.When hooked up to shore power everything works good.When I disconnect shore power I have next to nothing for power,very low lights indicating weak battery.When I use the 12-volt with shore power lights I can here the fan on the converter go on,so I can assume the converter is working.There are no led lights on the converter for a open cicuit.I checked the fuse near the battery(30-amp)which was good.I have a IOTA converter which I contacted them but got no response I understand there are some fuses behind the converter but don't know what size or kind they are.I would like to know what they are before I pull the converter from the wall in the event they are blown.If they are not blown I don't know what the problem is and I'm far from a electrician.
OK I got behind the fuse panel and saw the two paddle fuses (35 amp)on the converter and they were good,the battery was good,actually showed 13 volts on a meter with the cables disconnected. I even took the batery out and put it on a charger for a day.So I'm still making no headway.I not given up yet I still have a question on three things (1)why would I get some power on the 12 volt system(very dim 12 volt light) (2)In the battery compartment there are two small junction post that cables are bolted together and mounted to the metal compartment,there are two of these and I don't know what they do,each of them have two post and some cables go to each of the post held on with a nut.(3)What determines when the 12 volt system runs off the converter or the battery?
 
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Old 05-20-2008, 03:45 AM   #2
Bill-N-Donna
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It sounds like you may need to look at checking the battery. The fan kicking on is telling me the unit is trying to charge the battery and possibly it’s warming up from the charge causing the fan to run. I’m not familiar with the unit whether or not the fan runs all the time or only when it gets so warm and calls for more cooling but that’s where I would start looking if it were me.

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Old 05-20-2008, 03:55 AM   #3
H. John Kohl
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To amend to Bill's comment. As you describe it the converter is fine with the fan running on 120VAC power. There are two 30 AMP "large" compaired to small auto "blade type fuse", just like ones in the fuse panel, on the converter. I am betting one or both are blown. They are easy to get to once you have access to the converter. When you buy them get the 5 pack so you have a couple spare. Landing leg motor as well as the fuse panel main fuses.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
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Old 05-20-2008, 06:45 AM   #4
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On my 2006 3400RL, there are two 30 amp fuses on the left side of the 12v panel. Check them for a blown fuse. I had this problem and after chasing my tail, I finally "measured" the fuse with a volt/ohm meter. Found one of them blown! I had looked at the fuse and it did not look bad. Learned my lesson, always measure the fuse.
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Old 05-20-2008, 12:28 PM   #5
racerjoe
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Make sure you do a voltage test on your battery. you could have a dead cell and it will never hold a charge. I would make sure the battery checks good before doing anything else. Our 2005 battery went bad last year,but it dead shorted and quit all at once. disconnect the battery and put a charger on it to see if it will take a charge at all.
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Old 05-22-2008, 03:20 PM   #6
sreigle
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We've twice had that problem. Both times a breaker on the converter had popped. It's the breaker marked "conv" on ours. If your battery checks out, check the breakers. Apparently that breaker is on the circuit that provides power to the battery from the shore connection via the converter. Thus, our 12v was running off the battery with nothing recharging it.
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Old 05-28-2008, 12:33 AM   #7
H. John Kohl
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by garyka

--snip--
OK I got behind the fuse panel and saw the two paddle fuses (35 amp)on the converter and they were good,the battery was good,actually showed 13 volts on a meter with the cables disconnected. I even took the batery out and put it on a charger for a day.So I'm still making no headway.I not given up yet I still have a question on three things (1)why would I get some power on the 12 volt system(very dim 12 volt light) (2)In the battery compartment there are two small junction post that cables are bolted together and mounted to the metal compartment,there are two of these and I don't know what they do,each of them have two post and some cables go to each of the post held on with a nut.(3)What determines when the 12 volt system runs off the converter or the battery?
I almost missed this update since it was embedded in the original post.
The answer to number (2) is - they are two auto reset breakers that connect the hydraulic pump motor to the battery. They are for the slides.
The answer to number (1) is longer. The battery is wired to the converter and the converter is wired to the fuse panel. The converter can provide 12 VDC in both directions at the same time so: (A) if the battery is low it can recharge it. (B) if 12 volts is need it in the trailer and the battery is low the convert will do both until its limit is reached. (C) if not battery connected then the converter will provide 12 volts to the trailer.

In my original post I amened Bill's comment to check your battery. That is the direction am now suggesting. The fact it has 13 volts does not mean it last long. So take your battery to a battery shop that can check the "cranking amperage" on the battery that will give you an idea how long it lasts.

Best of luck and please let us know the final results.
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Old 05-28-2008, 01:04 AM   #8
Bill-N-Donna
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Please let us know when you get this problem fixed!
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Old 05-28-2008, 12:26 PM   #9
exav8tr
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I was told recently that a 12 volt battery should be showing 13.8 volts when fully charged and functioning correctly. Not being versed in electricity, is this correct?????
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Old 05-28-2008, 02:19 PM   #10
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Phil,
The statement is too broad to answer. My voltage gage in the truck runs at about 13.5 so it is in line with your statement. I would say I do not want to see a battery over 13.8 volts, however, one down to 11.5 volts can still be considered functioning correctly. It depends on what "job" the battery is doing. Voltage is only half the question that needs to be asked. The other half is what is the reserve (cracking) amperage left in the battery.
I was going to go off on a tangent about POWER but decided not to unless someone want DC .001 theory.
Cheers,
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Old 06-04-2008, 11:45 AM   #11
Bill and Lisa
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I have to respectfully disagree with some of what has been said here. Here is what I have observed in my 2007 3000RK. The battery is directly wired to the DC distribution panel and so is the converter. The converter supplies power to the dc panel and as long as the battery disconnect is closed the battery should charge. In your case, it appears that the converter IS suppling DC to the bus as evidenced by normal lighting when plugged into AC power. The problem appears to be between the battery and the DC bus.
Lets start from the bus and work back to the battery.
Check the two DC Fuses in the upper left corner of the DC panel. One is on the line from the converter, the other on the line from the battery. I don't know which so check both. There is no red indicator light for these fuses - you must pull them and test them.
Next check the battery isolation switch, even cycle it once to ensure it is closed.
Next check the inline fuse. This is up in the battery compartment and is normally 30 Amp either glass tube or more likely a bayonnet type fuse.
If all that checks out it is your short stop fuses - those things with the posts. My 2007 did not have the self resetting type. Once blown they HAD to be replaced. You can search the archives for my threads on "Short stop" fuses for some pictures. The first short stop fuse is used to protect the hydraulic motor for the slides. The input to this fuse is a direct connection to the battery. The output goes to the motor and the second fuse. Logic would say you could check and see if this fuse were good by checking to see if, when disconnected from AC power the slides still work but in practice that doesn't work because the control signal (also DC Power) comes from the DC bus in the unit and if the second breaker is blown you will not have power (also true if the first breaker is blown since it powers the second breaker)

The nice thing about the breakers is you can put a voltmeter across the posts and see if there is a voltage - if there is the breaker is open (12+v on one side, 0 on the other). I would check those breakers and replace as neccessary. You "may" have to get replacement breakers from an RV dealer as most Auto stores don't carry them in the ratings you need.

The only way other than a volt meter to determine which is blown would be to open the battery disconnect AND be plugged into AC power. Then, the converter should power the DC Bus providing power to the slide control circuitry and the battery would power the hydraulic moter "IF" the first short stop is good. Assuming that works then the problem is isolated to the second short stop breaker or inline fuse.

Now, access to the short stop fuses is not good although the dealer had upgraded my unit to 2 6v batteries, he mounted the box fore to aft with one battery completely located UNDER the shelf. I made contact between my socket wrench and the battery terminals several times trying to take the cables off the short stop fuses. If you find my post and pictures you will see where I chose to remount my fuses (as well as remounting the battery box to the front of the compartment from side to side).

I hope that helps. Let us know what the final solution was.
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Old 06-04-2008, 02:27 PM   #12
TLightning
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by exav8tr

I was told recently that a 12 volt battery should be showing 13.8 volts when fully charged and functioning correctly. Not being versed in electricity, is this correct?????
Here is a state of charge table from a 12v electrical manual:

12.6 or higher 100%
12.4 - 12.6 75 to 100%
12.2 - 12.4 50 to 75%
12.0 - 12.2 25 to 50%
11.8 - 12.0 0 to 25%
below 11.8 0%
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Old 06-04-2008, 03:06 PM   #13
H. John Kohl
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Thanks Tom for the real story.
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Old 06-04-2008, 03:12 PM   #14
HughM
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I charged mine last night and when it came off the charger it read 13.8. That's as high as it should get. I don't let a battery get below 50% charge unless its a deep cycle.
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Old 06-26-2008, 06:26 AM   #15
garyka
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sorry I didn't get back sooner I switched battery's and everything works good now,so I'm buying a new battery.Thanks for the help.
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