Anybody use blocks under landing gear?

[Exnavydiver]

Used to use blocks on my SOB TT. On the new Big Sky I use the JT's jack stabilizers plus JT's elephant feet. The elephant feet are 12 inch disks that replace the front feet and bolt onto the rear feet. They also have a set of rubber shoes that fit on the feet. In the last 4 months of traveling we have had no problems with wiggle, or hitch releases, or feet sinking into soft ground. I also have a bed saver. The feet stay on the legs when they go up or down and are worry free. They give you approx. 114 sq inches of surface area and they haven't sunk into any surface we have parked on. These include concrete, asphalt, gravel, dirt and grass. We also have been on grass and had 3 inches of rain which caused a serious amount of mud. We didn't have a sinking problem on this surface either. When I used blocks on my TT I always had wiggle I have virtually none now... Dave and Betsy

[Texas5er]

I use 4 wooden blocks (1 2x12 and 3 2x8) screwed together for my front jacks. Put a handle on each of the blocks and put them in the truck bed when traveling. Thinking of putting one more 2x12 on the block. Eliminates most of the movement up front.

[gjetzen]

I use wooden blocks under all of my jacks. I only use 1 under each to spread load over sod or dirt surface. I carry several different thickness' of blocks 1, 2 and 4 inch thick so i can somewhat adjust for uneven ground. I also carry a 2 foot carpenter level and place it on the shelf by my dump valve handles. I pull into a site open the street side side compartment and look at my level. This gives me a good idea of were I need to go as far as side to side. I level the trailer side to side by using those "Lego" style plastic blocks that you drive onto and then I will chock the wheels under the side that does not have the plastic levelers under them or you can pull the pin for the emergency electric trailer brakes to engage. Then I usually use a 2x12x12 under the front landing gear unhitch the trailer pull the truck out from under it, then level front to back going slightly high in front (slightly past center on the level). I also use a tripod under the goose neck to take out about 90% of the wiggle. I put the tripod under the goose neck and screw it up sung then let the trailer down to level. My next step is to lock the wheels with a device that screws in between the wheels and keeps them from rocking and moving this will take out the remainder of the wiggle. My last step is to crank down the rear stabilizers. I use a 4x4x18 block under each and crank down until tight (not too tight). While this may sound like a lot of gyrations it takes me about 20 min. to unhook level and hook up all of my utilities. PS if you pull the pin on the electric brake box be sure to put it back in after set up or you will run the risk of discharging your battery. Hope this helps.
gjetzen