Winterizing New 2955RL

[jaybird]

I'm a rookie with my new 5er and I'm not winterizing cause I don't know how. My dealer is two hours away so I haven't traveled to see them. I use her monthly in the winter some I'm in my (confused) mind, I think I don't have to winterize. Mostly because I don't know how. In Seattle we don't have many freezing nights and I have kept the furnace on so I'm not completely stupid but I read in the brochure that my Fiver has the following.

No-fuss, ìFreezeguardî winterizing kit

I have no idea what this is or how to go about it.
Any advise!!!

[noneck]

Well, the short answer is depending on the year model of your unit there will be a valve and a short hose to insert into an antifreeze jug. Once the hose is in the jug, flip the valve to allow the water pump to draw from there, turn the valve at the hot water tank for bypass and turn on water pump and operate each faucet until the pink stuff comes out(both hot and cold). Keep checking the jug so you can change it out for a fresh one as it gets empty. Be aware if it pulls all fluid out the pump will dry run trying to reach upper pressure setpoint so you may have to turn off pump if it sucks air. Note; you should pull the anode rod from the hot water tank and drain it as well. I'm sure others will add where I missed any key points.

Chuck

[jaybird]

Our 2955RL is a 2006

[jaybird]

You actually put Antifreeze in your waterlines??? How do you clean out the antifreeze when you head out camping?? Does it all go to your grey tank or galley tank for future dumping?

[noneck]

Ahhh, wait...this is non-toxic antifreeze! Not the Automotive stuff.....don't use that! Sorry didn't think to clarify. You can get it at boat supply, RV parts stores, and Wally world has it too! Runs $3.50 - $6.00 a gallon... I wouldn't drink it tho, always flush in spring with lots of water, non-toxic or not don't need to be ginny pig. I like to use it to make sure bateria doesn't grow in my water lines...stagnant water tends to generate baterial growth which is bad too.
Chuck

BTW, Welcome to MOC!!!

[MAMalody]

Let's go back to the beginning for a moment.
1. Use RV/Marine grade antifreeze. You will need 2 or 3 gallons.
2. Open your low point drains and drain the water out of your water lines.
3. Drain your fresh water holding tank.
4. Leave a hot water tap open, trip the pressure release on your hot water tank. Remove the anode rod from the hot water tank. Flush the tank. Do NOT reinstall the rod.
5. Close the hot water tank by-pass. If you don't it will take 6-10 gallons of additional anit-freze.
6. Make sure the low point drains are closed
7. Use the hose illustrated in "nonecks."
8. Insert the hose in the anit-freeze, turn on your water pump, go the the tap farthest from the freezeguard hose and turn them on. Run until the water runs pink.
9. Do #8 for each tap until you have them all running pink.
10. Flush your toilet until it runs pink.
11. Pour some anti-freeze directly into each sink and tub to make sure the p-trap have anti-freeze in them.
12. Pour some anti-freeze into the toilet.

At this point you have essentially winterized your rig.

When you go to de-winterize:
1. Open your low point drains.
2. Close your low point drains.
3. Hook up city water and open your taps and let her run.
4. Run until you cannot smell the anti-freeze or taste it.
5. After step #4 run it for 10 more minutes.

When you are on your first use, you may still detect a faint odor or taste. If you do simply continue to flush until you don't.

I hope this helps.

If you have a w/d somebody else will have to help there because I don't.

[exfuzz02]

I also live in western Washington. The only things I have ever done is........drain fresh water tank, hot water tank, take out annode rod, drain low water lines, then pour about 3 gallons of RV anti-freeze down all the traps and toilet. I have never had a problem.

[padredw]

As exfuzz says, most of us in more moderate climes drain the waterline and do no use the anti-freeze except in the drain traps. I use compressed air to "blow out" the lines after the low point drains are opened.

Word to the wise: opening those low point drains in older models such as our 2002 2955 it's a matter of crawling under the 'belly of the beast' near the real axel to take off those plastic caps. The fresh water tank uses the same type cap but is not so difficult to reach.

On the other hand, it is then easy to set up for a trip. In fact, we are this very day in the Forth Worth, Texas area. I had to de-winterize to make the trip, but it was not difficult.

[DONnANNIE]

I'm plumbed for W/D but don't have one and probably won't ever get one. My question is "Where are the hot N cold feed lines located?" I would like to "Capoff" the lines so that I don't have to winterize them each year. Are they under the bathroom sink? I have a 2007 3650RK.

[sreigle]

When you pour antifreeze into the toilet you do so with the toilet valve closed. You want the pink stuff pooled in the bowl to keep the seal from drying out. Water will evaporate over the winter. Antifreeze will not.

[noneck]

I never go back and pour any antifreeze down the drains where I was running the fauct. Figure running the faucet with pink stuff coming out is enough to load the traps. I do dump it in the "water closet" and cycle couple times to wet the seal, then as Mr Reigle points out "load" some with valve closed to keep it wet during storage. Other than that Mike's list is what I do..with one add, I purge compressed air into my black water flush and city inlet in hopes of getting these two dead end's cleared.
Chuck

[Wandering Star]

Anode rod
If you drain the low point drain lines ( I take it that one of the two lines underneath the trailer below the hot water tank is for the hot water tank) Do you have to remove the anode rod to winterize. I do periodically check the rod for deterioration and replacement but have not pull the rod to drain tank. I guess what I'm getting at is it mandatory to pull the rod to drain the tank?
Thanks for any feedback.

Jon

[Cat320]

On mine, the two low point drain lines are not related to the hot water tank. Therefore I pull the anode rod to drain the tank...that's the only way to get all the water out of the tank

[Illini Trekker]

Jon on a 2955Rl you have to drain the hot water tank.SeeYa

[Wandering Star]

Cat 320 & Illini Trekker

Thanks guys for the correct advise.
Pulled rod this afternoon and watch @six gallons of water pour out, been lucky with this Northeast weather being so warm. Hard to believe there is no snow or ice on the ground yet, any other time that tank would of been fro-zed up.
Waiting for the spring to hitch up and head to the Cape.

[exav8tr]

Jon, Don't know anything about winterizing my rig yet, BUT, I can send you some snow if you want. We have had 29 1/2 inches in Anchorage this December (and expecting more in next couple of days). Our average for December is 14 inches. Looks like this will be one for the record books AND, 'MY LAST ONE"!!!!

[Illini Trekker]

Jon glad to help stick around and we'll be learning something from you! I cut a short piece of hose and stick it in the tank to flush it out. Then maybe that lime won't set up in the tank. SeeYa

[sreigle]

Unless I missed it I don't think any of us remember to say to bypass the water heater. On the new rigs with the connection center, just flip the switch in that center. On older rigs there will be a valve on the line into (or out of?) the water heater. There will be another line between the incoming and outgoing water lines. Turn the valve to parallel that extra line. Valve handle points in the direction of water flow.

If you don't bypass the water heater you'll pump it full of antifreeze. That's 6 or 10 extra gallons. The entire procedure should take less than 3 gallons. Two gallons in some models.