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Old 09-12-2006, 03:00 AM   #1
dcowie
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Heating Question

My dealer replaced my original thermostat this year with the Comfort Control System (CCS) and it works better than the original remote control system. I was running the heat at night in Leadville, CO (night-time temp was low 30’s) last week and the furnace would run to the desired temp, shut off then turns back on within two minutes. It seemed to run constantly, but off and back on. I am surprised the heat would drop that fast in the RV, but it must. The furnace is so loud it is hard to sleep at night!
Is the constant off & on what others are experiencing? And is that why some of you run portable heaters?



Doug & LInda,Estero, FL
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Old 09-12-2006, 03:10 AM   #2
Wrenchtraveller
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At 28 F my furnace would only run about half the time. Remember the fan keeps running for a few minutes after the heat cuts off but it does sound like yours is running a little more than it should. I have dual pane windows but the difference should not be that great.

In a CG, I prefer the quiet of an electric heater but to keep the plumbing from freezing we have to use our furnaces if it is real cold. Outside temps above freezing, I will use my Fireplace only.

Don & Donna
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Old 09-12-2006, 07:31 AM   #3
bsmeaton
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Doug and Linda,

Don is right - once the temperature is satisfied on the thermostat, the burner shuts down and the fan will continue to run to push the remaining heat available out of the duct. The duct has a mechanical thermocouple switch that shuts down the fan when the air cools down. (Ozz or Steve probably have the correct terms). Our suburban furnace is balanced pretty well, but we had an Excalibur furnace in another unit that drove me crazy - it would push enough cold air at the end of the cycle to drive the thermostat down causing the burner to relight and start the cycle over.

It is possible that the duct switch could be adjusted to shorten the cycle, but don't expect much. I think you are experiencing the normal in cold outside temps. We use electric up in the high country if we have hookups, just because it is quieter and saves propane. Just have to use the same preautions with electric units that you would at home.

By the way - Did you stay at SugarLoafin in Leadville?



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Old 09-12-2006, 11:51 AM   #4
richfaa
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The furnace and thermostat in the camper works exactly like the one in your home..Hi and lo limit switches... In a camper we are much closer to the furnace therefore it seems loud. Go down and sleep a few feet from your furnace room in the stick home and you will get the same effect..It's a camper thing...

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Old 09-12-2006, 12:04 PM   #5
adelmoll
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We like the bedroom a little cooler so we put in one of those registers that ou can open or close in the bedroom. We close it in the bedroom after our showers are all done and that seems to help on the furnace running more than necessary. We also keep the fireplace going all night in the cooler weather. As far as the noise, I wouldn't know. I'm blind as a bat in one eye and can't see out of the other. Seems like my ears are following the trend. We are still using the old remote thing-a-ma-jig though. We just got the authorization yesterday to have it changed out to the new one.

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Old 09-12-2006, 12:25 PM   #6
dcowie
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Rich you are right about sleeping next to the furnace in a stick house. We lived in the North East for years and I would hear the furnace often on the first floor. I expect to hear the furnace in the RV and I know it is going full cycle. I just wondered whether it was normal for it to go full cycle consistently after cycling off then kicking back on after 2-3 minutes.
We set the temp to 60 degrees when going to bed to get time to fall asleep. That works.
I believe the furnace is doing its job correctly. I think my solution in low temps is an electric heater.
Brad & Dory we did stay in SugarLoafin. We were surprised to find side-by-sides in the pull-thru sites, but we enjoyed our stay there anyhow. I would go back but get a back-in.
Thanks for the responses.

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Old 09-12-2006, 01:27 PM   #7
bsmeaton
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Doug and Linda,

Yes, I noticed the layout at Sugarloafin is a little strange, but the folks were nice and social and I enjoyed getting some of the history from them. We ended up there by mistake after we found out we couldn't get over Independance Pass with our rig. The kids enjoyed the ice cream - so we go back every once in a while.

Enjoy your rig!
Brad & Dory
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Old 09-12-2006, 02:25 PM   #8
JH Sechelt
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Doug and Linda,

We have a 2980RL with the good old remote thermostat, it seems to work OK.
A couple of trailers ago We had the same problem that you do with the furnace. Run for 5 to 10 minutes and then off for 2-3 and start all over again. What our problem was.. that a heat duct (vent) was too close to the thermostat and the warm air would blow on the thermostat and tell the furnace that it was warm enough. Of coarse it wasn't so as soon as the furnace stop blowing, the thermostat would cool down quickly and on comes the furnace again. the colder outside it was, the worst it would be. I used to throw a book over that heat vent and everything would work just fine.



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Old 09-12-2006, 03:23 PM   #9
dcowie
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John, good suggestion. My heat register is right under the thermostat. I will try covering it.
Thanks.
Doug

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Old 09-12-2006, 03:47 PM   #10
richfaa
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From our experience what you are hearing is pretty much the norm for camper furnaces.In every camper we have had the furnace seems to run nearly all the time in really cold weather. No matter what we have on these campers, Artic packages, dual pane windows, etc they are campers and they do not hold heat all that well. We have always supplemented with electric heaters.Our solution to the furnace issue with this camper is to not use it unless absolutely necessary..to that end we are leaving Northern , Ohio and going to Arizona and places even farther south.

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Old 09-12-2006, 04:46 PM   #11
bsmeaton
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Doug and Linda -

Just make sure that's not the return air register you are blocking - or you'll have additional problems. Usually the return air is close the the thermostat.

Brad
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Old 09-13-2006, 01:26 PM   #12
dcowie
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Rich, I agree that RV units don't keep out heat or cold that well and electric supplements are a good solution. The best solution is follow the sun south - which is where we are heading.

I tried covering the register by the thermostat this morning and it seemed to work much better.
It was over 12 minutes before the heat came on again. Of course, the outside temp was in the mid-50's, much different from Leadville's low 30's.

Good point - Brad. I will make sure I locate the return register.
Doug

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Old 09-14-2006, 05:28 PM   #13
sreigle
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Doug and Linda, to answer one of your questions, the reason we sometimes run electric heaters is to cut down on propane usage when we are paying for propane but the park pays for electricity. You have to be careful in hard freeze weather to make sure the electric heaters don't keep the furnace from running enough to keep things from freezing in the belly.

Home thermostats usually have an adjustment for how much temp difference triggers turning on the furnace or AC. Most rv thermostats do not have that. I'm not sure if the CCC does or not. On our 3295RK we replaced the OEM thermostat with a Hunter battery operated thermostat that did have that adjustment. It made a huge difference. We've not yet enough experience with our CCC to know if we need to find another solution or not.
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