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Old 10-11-2019, 04:13 PM   #1
masterdrago
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Bearing Replacement Tomorrow

There appear to be tons of threads on this process all over the MOC and internet (YouTube). So many different option and opinions.


1st: Jacking it up. Do we do a single tire at a time using one jack under the axle u bolts (not what Dexter says) or lift the intire 5r up on the 6 point hydraulic levelers (I don't know how). Clearly it will be safest to have the 5r connected to the TV when doing this. I'm on a flat concrete covered pad at home.


2nd: Take off the tires and hubs, clean and remove bearings. Install new races and greased bearings and seals. Clean and inspect all brake components. reinstall hubs. Torque spindle nut per Dexter.


3rd: Tires back on and torque lug nuts 3 times at various levels per Dexter.


I'm avoiding using the EZ-Lube process and hand lubing the bearings with Dexter recommended grease.


The part I'm the least clear on is getting the 5r up high enough using the Level-Up?? Several LCI pdf files do not seem to address this manual lifting of the 5r using the Level-Up interface. Any help here would be appreciated.
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Old 10-11-2019, 05:51 PM   #2
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Just use the level up in manual mode to lift all four tires off the ground. No need to be hooked to tow vechicle. I store mine like that when not being used. Never any problems.
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Old 10-11-2019, 06:01 PM   #3
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I also used the 6 point level up and felt a lot safer than using a jack or jack stands IMHO
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Old 10-11-2019, 06:22 PM   #4
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As said above, go to manual mode and sue the left/right arrows to raise the RV until the wheels are off the ground. Pretty easy. The trick though is that the "brain" won't let the RV get too far of level left/right. You have to go up a bit on one side then a bit on the other side. Repeat as necessary. If you hit the point of too much tilt it isn't the end of the road. Just raise the opposite side some more.
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Old 10-11-2019, 07:21 PM   #5
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If you just canít get enough lift with the jacks, lower it and put blocks under the four center ad rear jacks. As long as you stay out from under the rig, you will be safe. If you are worried, place jack stands under the frame. You also might want to loosen all the lug nuts before lifting the tires.
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Old 10-12-2019, 05:28 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rohrmann View Post
If you just canít get enough lift with the jacks, lower it and put blocks under the four center ad rear jacks. As long as you stay out from under the rig, you will be safe. If you are worried, place jack stands under the frame. You also might want to loosen all the lug nuts before lifting the tires.
Thanks. Good advice on the extra blocks under the lift legs. I added two 14x14x1 oak pads I use when needing extra support at soft camp sites. I put 22 ton jack stands up on 4x4 blocking to support in case of lift fail. And all need to heed advice to loosen lug nuts b4 starting the process. I thought I would be cool and just wedge something under the tire. Problem with that is springs give too much for a good grip. Some broke loose with the 24volt Kobalt impact but a few were really stubborn. Also, doing all this by hand instead of the EZ-Lube method shows how dirty a few thousand miles will make all the brake components. Good thing I bought a case of CRC Brakckean. So far all is going well. May get it all finished up tomorrow b4 Dallas game. Took a break this morning to watch my Dawgs get reamed by the Gamecocks. More disrespect for a long tradition as the opposing team ripped some of the famous Hedges.
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Old 10-12-2019, 07:52 PM   #7
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curious.



you have a 2018 and are replacing bearings?????


you don't need to replace bearings in the normal wear and tear of a 2 year old trailer. Just grease them.
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Old 10-12-2019, 08:34 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by mazboy View Post
curious.



you have a 2018 and are replacing bearings?????


you don't need to replace bearings in the normal wear and tear of a 2 year old trailer. Just grease them.

That is what I thought.
Are the new ones any better??
What is wrong with the old ones?
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Old 10-12-2019, 10:08 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by mazboy View Post
curious.



you have a 2018 and are replacing bearings?????


you don't need to replace bearings in the normal wear and tear of a 2 year old trailer. Just grease them.
It is somewhat common, at least on a number of the 5r forums I've been lurking on the last 2+ years to remove the Chinese bearing, the crap tires and sometimes the under rated wheels. I would not be doing it if I could not. Sorta like some individuals upgrade their brakes to disc and their suspension to independent. The bearings I'm installing are made in the USA not China. Some things from China are okay. Others are not. People upgrade their water pumps, TV antenna, sound system. I believe that the most important thing on these poorly made 5th wheels are the tires, bearings, brakes and suspensions. Followed by water piping, electrical connections and insulating R-value. Some of it I can fix. Some not.
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Old 10-12-2019, 10:10 PM   #10
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One other thing I plan on doing is check the torque on the suspension fittings and grease the bushings while I have the tires off. Does anyone know how much grease to pump in? 2 pumps sound right?
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Old 10-12-2019, 10:37 PM   #11
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Most of us pump till we see grease coming out of the bushings which happens to be 2-3 pumps. I think you are a bit overkill on replacing the races as I wouldn't mess with them unless pitted or blue, but we all have our own agendas. Made in USA does still have a bit of an advantage, but not near the advantage of 20 years ago. Read up on where we get some of our steel and iron ore ... or for that matter hogs and wheat. Pretty baffling to me.
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Old 10-13-2019, 07:50 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masterdrago View Post
It is somewhat common, at least on a number of the 5r forums I've been lurking on the last 2+ years to remove the Chinese bearing, the crap tires and sometimes the under rated wheels. I would not be doing it if I could not. Sorta like some individuals upgrade their brakes to disc and their suspension to independent. The bearings I'm installing are made in the USA not China. Some things from China are okay. Others are not. People upgrade their water pumps, TV antenna, sound system. I believe that the most important thing on these poorly made 5th wheels are the tires, bearings, brakes and suspensions. Followed by water piping, electrical connections and insulating R-value. Some of it I can fix. Some not.
And I did not even mention toilets. Some folks replace them simply as a prevention of a common Thetford failure using a Dometec
http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/...ad.php?t=57286


Some here on these forums have had bearing failures even when maintained. For me it is just low cost insurance.

https://www.ownerdriver.com.au/indus...cause-of-fires
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Old 10-13-2019, 07:58 AM   #13
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So while I'm under there, do I grease the shackle zerks until grease flows out between the ends of the bushing and the bolt?
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Old 10-13-2019, 08:17 AM   #14
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If it gives you peace of mind to replace perfectly good bearing, then by all means do so. Your trailer, your money!
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Old 10-13-2019, 09:42 AM   #15
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Like I mentioned yesterday evening most of us just pump the grease gun till grease comes out which generally is 2-3 pumps. Continuing to pump ... all you'll have is a pile of grease on the driveway under the bushing. That's how any open bushing greasing goes whether it be on a farm implement, the bushing on your rider mower's front wheels, or the suspension on an RV. Also ... the grease will not pass thru the bushing all 360 degrees of its ID ... it will usually just squirt out in a smaller area as grease will follow the path of least resistance. Now if you're talking about a rubber booted greased item like the end of a tie rod a few years back ... just pump to you see the boot expand a bit. As has been mentioned several times on any RV forum ... taking some of the weight off the suspension as with the Level Up will help in the greasing.
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Old 10-13-2019, 09:46 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by masterdrago View Post
So while I'm under there, do I grease the shackle zerks until grease flows out between the ends of the bushing and the bolt?
I think your answer is in post #11.
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Old 10-13-2019, 09:47 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by dieselguy View Post
Like I mentioned yesterday evening most of us just pump the grease gun till grease comes out which generally is 2-3 pumps. Continuing to pump ... all you'll have is a pile of grease on the driveway under the bushing. That's how any open bushing greasing goes whether it be on a farm implement, the bushing on your rider mower's front wheels, or the suspension on an RV. Also ... the grease will not pass thru the bushing all 360 degrees of its ID ... it will usually just squirt out in a smaller area as grease will follow the path of least resistance. Now if you're talking about a rubber booted greased item like the end of a tie rod a few years back ... just pump to you see the boot expand a bit. As has been mentioned several times on any RV forum ... taking some of the weight off the suspension as with the Level Up will help in the greasing.
I guess I misread or missed entirely your note. Thanks. Makes good sense and I had read about some having issues doing the grease job while the weight was on the tires. Why I'm doing it while the whole 5r is high on the lifts with jackstands under the frame as a safety.
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Old 10-13-2019, 09:57 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by fatcatzzz View Post
If it gives you peace of mind to replace perfectly good bearing, then by all means do so. Your trailer, your money!
Absolutely correct. But I think for under $200, money well spent. Maybe there are campers out there somewhere that only use good components and good workmanship but my suspicion is that they are far, far beyond my budget. Just trying to be proactive to make improvements within my capability..... like Thetford toilet out.... Dometic in! And a lot of the advice and info comes from not only the MOC but the forums for DRV, RVNet, Grand Design, & irv2. It's all about safety and peace of mind. At least for this old repair guy.
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Old 10-15-2019, 10:22 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by fatcatzzz View Post
If it gives you peace of mind to replace perfectly good bearing, then by all means do so. Your trailer, your money!
I agree. Have not repacked a bearing EVER on any of the 3 units we have owned for the past 15 or so years. Every spring I lift the unit with the level up off the ground and pump in 30-40 pumps of grease while spinning the wheels. Check for any bearing looseness while they are off the ground.

I always touch each hub when we stop for a break of at our destination. Always cool to the touch.

Disclaimer; We only tow around 2-3k miles a year.

For those who tow a lot of miles, like 15-20k a year, I could justify being more vigilante at repacking/replacing bearings.
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Old 10-16-2019, 04:15 PM   #20
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Just a comment FYI. We were on the way back from Alaska and I apparently lost an outside bearing. Result was tire cockeyed out and a grease fire, all happening just as I was turning into the campground. We had to replace the axle, hub, bearings for that wheel. I have been religious about using the EZ Lube system being very careful about turning the wheel as I used a hand grease pump and then looking for the “old” grease to come out the front until the new (Mystic) red grease starts to appear. The other 3 wheels did not have any evidence that I had blown a grease seal so I think the bearing just failed. I will hand pack my wheels from now on and definitely change all the bearing to a better quality than factory supplied ones. My thought is that while some may have had good luck with factory bearings so far as I have, but this is also the factory that provided the wonderful tires ,Marathons, as original equipment and I think all of us know they are purely worthless tires.
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