Slide-outs stopping

[Ozark Dave]

My front slide-outs have started to stop when they are being extended and extracted. Here is what happens. Push button and the slide moves a bit and then stops. Have to release button and push it back in and it moves a bit more. Repeat. Lights also go out when the slide stops. No issue with back slide-out. Anybody have any idea what is going on?

[DQDick]

If it's getting colder where you are and your battery checks out as good it sounds like the auto reset breaker on your hydraulic pump is going out and then reseting it's self. Keystone replaced mine with an 80amp breaker under warranty.

[Rondo]

You don't say what year your unit is or how old it is but I agree with Dick about the breaker but it could also be the battery/batteries if you have more than one. If you don't and only have one, remove it and have it checked. It sounds to me that the battery/batteries are low and not supplying the complete power to the slides. If you only have one battery, I suggest getting a second one. These newer units and even the older units can tax a single battery really quickly especially in the colder weather.

On edit-- You do show what year and model you have but I would still check the battery/batteries also. I had one go bad on our unit and it was less than a year old when it happened. Dealer replaced it for free!
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[davidaf]

Funny I was going to post the same question except mine only occurs during retract. Same symptoms lights and all. 4 six volt batteries, i'll check them tomorrow. Was 75 degrees when I was brining in the slide. First thought was, not cold enough for this yet.

[Ozark Dave]

My battery checks out good. My unit is still under warranty. Do you know the part number for the 80 amp breaker that I need? Also, will Keystone ship it directly to me to install? I'm far away from a dealer. Thx.

[DonandBonnie]

Ours did the same thing this week for the first time. We are usually plugged into shore power before operating the slides. This time we were battery only. We have three batteries that were fully charged. Wonder if shore power overcomes the breaker issue?

[BB_TX]

Low voltage on a wire wound device such as a motor or transformer will cause that device to pull more current than it would at full voltage. All has to do with the electro- magnetic forces created within it. That is why a motor has a higher starting current than running current. Essentially the wire thru a motor is a direct short until the voltage and current create the EMF to inhibit the current flow. (That probably wasn't necessary). So it is possible that on shore power the voltage holds up better than on battery alone, even though the battery(s) may be fully charged. But the current still goes thru the same breaker either way.

[Ozark Dave]

Had the breaker on the slide upgraded to 80 Amp under my Keystone warranty at Sullin's RV in Ridegdale, Mo. Now the slides don't stop when extending or extracting. That's the fix! Thanks!

[DQDick]

For other folks monitoring this thread, when Keystone authorized my replacement, Camping World got the breaker from an auto parts store down the road. Nothing special.

[lundwc16]

My slides do the same thing, stopping more than once when going in or out, I have 2 new 6 volt golf cart batteries. Has anyone felt the wires around the breaker to see if they are warm after going from a 50 Amp to a 80 Amp. I understand that it is the fix that is authorized by Keystone, I'm just having a hard time wrapping my head around increasing the breaker size. Possibly I'm just overthinking this or getting to old.
JOHN

[BB_TX]

The wires are large, short, and basically suspended in air (as opposed to confined in conduit). Unless your wires are smaller than others (not likely) then there should be no problem.

[DQDick]

Keystone checked to see if mine was wired to handle an 80 and it was. Since ours is a 2010 I would be very surprised if newer models had smaller wiring.

[hickory]

I replaced ours with an 80 amp from NAPA auto parts and it has'nt tripped since. It is a simple do-it-yourself job.