Help - we have no power! - Montana Owners Club

Silverbird · 07-15-2006, 04:46 PM

We are all packed and ready to take off on a short trip. Hubby put in an outlet for 30 amps and plugged the camper in and now we have no power in the camper at all. The 20 amp fuse keeps tripping and no power - cannot even run the gas for refrig. - had to totally unpack the frig. : (
Has anyone experienced this problem.
We called our electrician and he thinks it sounds like our converter. Where is the converter in the 06 2955RL - is it behind the fuse box? Of course it is Sat. night and hubby is still searching for problem.
Thanks anyone that would have any info.

Montana_1240 · 07-15-2006, 04:58 PM

As long as you're sure the power receptacle’s wired correctly, (look into this web site for info: http://www.myrv.us/electric/ the info's on the left,) double check to see if your hot water heater's electric power switch is on. It's under the outside water heater panel, near the bottom. That can be a big draw that might be tripping the 20-A breaker that it seems you have on that circuit. Plus, make sure you don't have power to the air conditioner. A sure fire way to pop a 20-A breaker. Plus, is your fireplace off?

I haven't had that malfunction with a converter, myself. Others may be more helpful in that area. But, our converter just stopped putting out 12V, so our batteries died. It was located behind the fuse and breaker panels. You mentioned a model 2955, but I'm guessing it's a lot like a 3475.

I hope you find the trouble.

Let us know in here what happens. Might save someone else a problem, too!

Steve

P.S.

I need to read better.

OntMont · 07-15-2006, 05:28 PM

You say you can't even run the fridge on gas? I think that must mean that your 12 battery is fully discharged. Do you have any lights? Try plugging your trailer into the tow vehicle, as though you were going to travel, and see if that at least gets the fridge and lights going.

Your electrician friend may be right about the converter, but they are generally trouble-free. As Steve said, you may have more than 20 amps of load. If the battery is dead, the converter will be pulling a fair number of amps to recharge the battery.

You could try swithching all the circuits to off, then try connecting the trailer, if the 20 breaker holds, turn the individual circuits on one at a time. Leave the water heater off though.

If the converter is really faulty, you can turn it off at the breaker panel, and just use the Tow Vehicle to charge the battery, not the most convenient perhaps, but it should get you by until you can get a proper repair done.

That is a rotten way to start a trip, I hope you can get it sorted out one way or another.

Let us know the outcome, this something worth knowing about.

Silverbird · 07-15-2006, 05:35 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by OntMont

You say you can't even run the fridge on gas? I think that must mean that your 12 battery is fully discharged. Do you have any lights? Try plugging your trailer into the tow vehicle, as though you were going to travel, and see if that at least gets the fridge and lights going.

Your electrician friend may be right about the converter, but they are generally trouble-free. As Steve said, you may have more than 20 amps of load. If the battery is dead, the converter will be pulling a fair number of amps to recharge the battery.

You could try swithching all the circuits to off, then try connecting the trailer, if the 20 breaker holds, turn the individual circuits on one at a time. Leave the water heater off though.

If the converter is really faulty, you can turn it off at the breaker panel, and just use the Tow Vehicle to charge the battery, not the most convenient perhaps, but it should get you by until you can get a proper repair done.

That is a rotten way to start a trip, I hope you can get it sorted out one way or another.

Let us know the outcome, this something worth knowing about.

Silverbird · 07-15-2006, 05:38 PM

I goofed - I tryed to reply.

We put the battery charger on the battery and it still would not hold a charge. Would plugging in the truck be different than this method?

We have removed the converter - there is a plug in on the top that looks like a phone plug in - and says it is for a quick charge - does anyone know what this is for?

Thanks

Silverbird · 07-15-2006, 05:49 PM

I should mention - the fridge was running fine - no water heater on - until Hubby was finished installing the 30 amp outlet - unplugged and plugged back into the 30 amp hook up. The fridge did not convert to gas, the microwave and DVD player light all went off. Everything was DEAD! He took the fuse panel off (06 2955RL) and the 20 amp breaker was tripped. He found the converter and noticed if the converter is unplugged the breaker does not trip - as soon as it is plugged in, it trips.

Any ideas anyone?

Thanks

Montana_1240 · 07-15-2006, 06:11 PM

Sure sounds like a bad converter.

But it doesn't explain why the DVD or Microwave indicators aren't working. They're A/C. (So's the fridge when it's not on gas. It requires 12V DC when on gas, though.)

It could be mis-wiring on the recptacle, and maybe the fridge doesn't care, while the converter, microwave, and DVD player can sense it and shut down....

Do you have any 12V lights working at all, without power plugged in?

Are you certain the outlet's wired properly? In my case, I have an adapter that allows me to plug into the 30 or 50 Amp power, and use an outlet tester to make sure ground, neutral, and hot are all present and wired correctly. If I were there, I'd try it on that 30 Amp outlet at this point. In your case, if you don't have the adapters, use that 30 Amp power on the Monty, and plug it into one of the inside receptacles.

Like This:

Steve

Montana_1240 · 07-15-2006, 06:19 PM

The info I’ve read about the converter’s “Quick Charge” feature is for getting more amps out of it. I didn’t have the plug that goes into that phone- jack-looking jack in the converter, and I didn’t think that I’d need a quick charge, since we never dry camp. Plus, it warned about possibly bubbling off the batteries’ fluid!

I’m guessing that if that converter were in a more handy locale, some folks might be plugging and unplugging that feature, depending on their individual use of their Monty. But I’d leave it off, since that’s the way we all get them from Keystone.

If you plug your truck into the Monty, and the truck’s running, it would tend to charge the Monty’s batteries faster than the converter. It won’t do anything for the Monty if the truck’s not running, though.

I think you’re suffering from “Murphy’s Law,” right now. A lousy way to prepare for a trip. I’m hoping it gets rectified ASAP!

Steve

Silverbird · 07-15-2006, 06:33 PM

We just went out and plugged in the truck - fridge works fine and all things light that run off of that mode.

The fridge ran awhile on electric, but no microwave light and no DVD light and TV's do not work. We checked the outlets and there is power to them - so this is another mystery ! We also checked all the fuses and everything is okay.

Now everything is dead again - oh brother - it is 11:30 p.m. - we will just give up for now. Vacation put on hold : ( Maybe we should take the tent one of our kids offered us !!!!?????

Montana_1240 · 07-15-2006, 07:12 PM

Silverbird,

I'm still thinking that maybe your hot and neutral leads may be reversed on your 30 Amp receptacle. The fridge is not as complicated as the microwave or DVD player, so it might not care about what lead is where. I can't say for sure.

You didn't mention if that power source ever worked on your trailer. Did it?

Sometimes the simplest things can throw you. Especially when you're readying for a big event.

I'm really sorry things aren't working out. But I do think it's time to start from the beginning with a tester on that receptacle. Especially if it is brand new.

Good Luck!
Steve

Silverbird · 07-15-2006, 07:32 PM

When we last tried everything - we were plugged into the 15 amp. The strange thing is the light in the microwave lights when you open the door, but the microwave is otherwise dead. We are really wondering if the converter is the problem.
We noticed our battery was dead, no lights etc. about 6 weeks after we had used the unit. In fact, when we came home with it the beginning of June - I went out about 2 - 3 days later and things were all dead - no battery juice.

Montana_1240 · 07-15-2006, 08:58 PM

If the converter is down, the battery won't charge. So, unless you've been towing it for a long time, the battery won't come back to life. I had two batteries, and when my converter stopped putting out 12V to charge them, one battery had to be replaced, and the other needed a 24-hour full charge at a shop.

Your initial post intimated that that 30 Amp receptacle was just installed by your husband. He really needs to double-check the wiring on that thing. Even if your converter's totally dead, it shouldn't interfere with the A/C appliances. And you just said that the last time you tested everything, you were “plugged into the 15 Amp.”

That just shrieks of a problem that just started when you changed over to the 30 Amp.

Regardless…On the microwave, are you sure you don't see the small ":" that will be lit when power's first applied, and the clock hasn't been set? Or have you tried to push a couple of the timer buttons to see if those numbers light up on the display?

Think about it. If you were a microwave, you might just allow the light to function, simply because it runs whatever input power there is, through a door switch, to a plain old light bulb. But if you were the brains for the display or the electronics that operate the rest of the oven, and saw what looks like "Ground" on the lead that should be "Hot," wouldn't you turn everything else off, just to keep from frying yourself?

Same goes for the DVD. And maybe even for the converter, if you ask me. It IS, after all, a device that takes A/C power and converts it to DC power. It wouldn't surprise me at all if this isn't just a problem with having the Hot and Neutral reversed at that new receptacle.

I've been a "Help Desk" for a computer network for twenty years. And in each and every situation, I make the customer start at ground zero. In a case like this, I'd have you test the applied voltage. There are just too many symptoms of reversed polarity floating around in this problem.

Using only a voltmeter at the Receptacle, you'd see 120V across the two leads, no matter whether they're reversed or not. But, if they are reversed, and you check between Hot and Ground, you might see 0V, instead of what should be 120V. And you might see 120V if you check between Neutral and Ground.

If you have the adapters to use a standard heavy duty 20 Amp extension cord to connect your Monty, you can get around this problem. By going back to the 15 Amp outlet.

But if your batteries have gone bad in only six weeks, I'd have that converter checked, regardless of what might be wrong with the A/C power. As long as you had working stuff in there, the battery should have been charging.

Please have him check the voltage at that receptacle. Go to this site and read up on where he should see what voltages on it. It may have you get back on the road! http://www.myrv.us/electric/Pg/testing.htm

Steve

Broome101 · 07-16-2006, 01:03 AM

Sounds like bad converter to me. If the fridge started working after you plugged into your TV than you supplied enough 12 volt for the fridge to convert. Your fridge requires a 12-volt service all the time. In order for it to switch over to gas when the AC power fails it needs a 12-volt source to fire the gas burner.
Another issue may be a GFI outlet blown, see if they are tripped or not. If you have power to outlets and microwave does not come on a GFI is tripped somewhere.

OntMont · 07-16-2006, 05:09 AM

I have to support everything that has been said. Go back to the begining and work it through step by step.

I am taking it that your trailer was stored for some time with no power, then brought to your home and plugged into that new outler that you have installed. The battery would likely be dead after an extended period of storage because there are various little things that draw on it (phantom current), even when you are not using the trailer. You should disconnect the battery while in storage without power.

There are really three systems that have to be sorted out.

First is the 12v DC. I think that you just have a dead battery that can likely be recharged using a conventional battery charger. If it won't take or hold a charge, it may have to be replaced.

Second is that new 30 amp power supply. Is it wired corrcctly? (usually black wires to brass screws, white wires to silver screws, green wire to ground (often green screws).

Third is your converter, does it have a short in it that is causing the breaker to trip? Is
it producing 12 volt power?

Even in the worst case, I think you should be able to go on your trip. You may have to shut off the converter, and rely on a battery charger and your tow vehicle to keep your (possibly new) battry charged. With the converter shut off, your 110v power should then work to run all the AC equipment.

Where there is a will there is a way. Don't panic, work everything through as people have suggested, and then do what you have to do to get things running.

Oh, about that telephone-like plug on the converter, it is for a couple of accessories that are avilable for the Iota converter, one is a fast charger, and the other is a smart charger, I have the smart charger, in mine and it seems to work well at maintaining the battery at a full charge without overcharging and vapourizing the water in the battery.

I really hope that you find some simple solution, but like I say, there are some viable work-arounds that should keep you going, Good Luck!

Dustytuu · 07-16-2006, 05:12 AM

My husband ask .... did he hook it up to 110 or 220 with the 30 amp plug? If so then all the electronics would be fried.
Need to check the wiring of the 30 amp plug. The converter could be fried.
The reason the stuff is running off the truck is, it is running off the truck's battery. Everything won't run off that battery. Just the 12 volt stuff is all that will run off that.
My husband Don

Ozz · 07-16-2006, 05:36 AM

My money would be on the 30 plug wired for 220 Volts, happens all the time.
Hope not, but that would trip the line voltage breaker and fry load items.
Good luck,
Ozz

Broome101 · 07-16-2006, 06:06 AM

Ozz which Iota smart charge did you get. I just ordered the Iota IQ4 for 27.00 bucks.

OntMont · 07-16-2006, 06:58 AM

I'm not Ozz, but the IQ4 is the one I have. I think I paid $30+ but I think it is well worth while especially for anyone who boodocks even occasionally. Even if you don't ever booddock, it will extend the battery life.

Ozz · 07-16-2006, 07:04 AM

Guys, (and Gals)
Does anyone know what converter we have in the new 3400RL's? I would think it already has the Bulk, Absorbtion and Float features.
I haven't looked into that yet.
Thanks, Ozz

OntMont · 07-16-2006, 08:03 AM

Ozz,

I can't claim to "know" this as a fact, but I would strongly suspect that you have the same "plain Jane" fixed charge rate Iota converter as we had in our '05, before I added the IQ4 module.

You may also like: