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Old 08-25-2005, 06:27 PM   #1
Montana_1988
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 29
M.O.C. #1988
Disc Brakes, New Axles and other upgrades

My 5er was plagued with the abnormal tire wear that so many Montanas seem to have. To correct the problem I decided to just upgrade the axles instead of doing the alignment.

I ordered new 7K Dexter axles to replace the 6K Al-Ko axles. After I had ordered the axles I decided that if I was going to upgrade the brakes to disc this would be the time to do it. I checked on the price difference and it was only about $30 over the cost of new axles with drum brakes.

I tried to change my order from drum to disc brakes but the axles had already been built and delivered. What I wanted was the Dexter 7K axles with the Dexter 8K disc brakes. This can only be done if you order the axle as a new assembly. Dexter does not offer 7K disc brakes. The Dexter 8K brakes mount to the axle via a 4 bolt pattern. 7K axles have a 5 bolt axle flange that the brakes bolt to. When the axles are ordered with the Dexter disc brakes, Dexter welds a 4 bolt flange to the axle instead of the 5 bolt flange.

The main reason why I wanted the Dexter disc brakes is the caliber is fixed (hard mounted) and has quad pistons pushing the brake pads into the rotor. This is better because it has fewer moving parts.

Since I could not get the Dexter disc brakes I installed Kodiak brakes instead. They are 7K brakes and have a floating caliber with a single piston. A floating caliber pushes the brake pad into the rotor on the one side and then draws the pad on the other side into the rotor. It's still a good setup and will provide many years of troublefree operation.

The company I was dealing with was unwilling to convert the drum brakes to disc brakes on the new axles at a resonable price. I ended up just buying the new axle tubes from them and purchasing the disc brake kits from www.etrailerpart.com in Texas. After purchasing the kits and paying shipping, my total cost per axle was the same as if I had ordered the new axles with the disc brakes.

The big cost of converting to disc brakes is the actuator. The actuator receives the electrial input that normally goes to the electric brakes and converts this signal to drive the hydraulics for the disc brakes. There is an article in the August issue of TrailerLife about compatiability issues between brake controllers and actuators.

Once I installed the new axles, new tires (upgraded to Load Range G, Goodyear 614 RST), and disc brakes I took it out for a test run. Boy does this thing stop! My braking distance is at least half if not more. I now drive with the trailer attached very simular to how I drive without the trailer. The braking is improved that much. I'm no longer being pushed by the trailer.

I purchased the HD3000 actuator from www.towbrake.com. It is reviewed in the Feb 05 issue of TrailerLife.

One thing to note, after I installed the new axles I still took it to an alignment shop and had the alignment checked. The recommended setting for our trailers is +1/2 camber (tires leaning out slightly at the top) and 0 toe. My toe is dead on, and three of the four tires are at +1/2 camber with the forth being +5/8 camber.

In the basement of your 5th wheels there is a void area between the top of the basement doors and the top of the basement. It's about 2.5 inches and it's the space between the aluminum frame that supports the floor in the bedroom. I capatilized on this by cutting a board to length and width and fastened it to the bottom of the aluminum frame on the backside with a piano hinge and then supported the side next to the basement door frame with three deadbolts. I really wished I had a digital camera so I could take a picture.

The board is about 60 inches long and about 14 inches wide. I had to notch it around the sewer pipe coming down from the commode. The way I have it set up with the hinge at the back, I relase the deadbolts and it drops down in the front. I attached two sided velcro to the board and placed my ax, hatchet, flashlight, jack handle, etc, etc, to the board. I then push the front of the board up, lock it with the three deadbolts and all of my small parts are neatly stowed away but easily accessable.

Other upgrades are the TrailAir Kingpin and TrailAir Centerpoint suspension. I've also added the Hunter digital thermostat. I still have the second AC to install. Overall I'm just about done with all the upgrades to the trailer and hope to enjoy many useful years of worryfree camping.

Dale
 
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Old 08-26-2005, 12:33 PM   #2
bob n pam
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: sioux falls
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M.O.C. #2121
Boy, I like that board in the basement improvement. What an ingenious idea!

Pam
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