Sailun Tire Failure

[Lucky23]

Just out of curiosity by any chance have either of you ever bump a curb when turning in tight areas sometimes you'll break the sidewall in between layers which weakens and over time will cause the blowout from the heat created from driving.

[PSFORD99]

Originally Posted by Lucky23

Just out of curiosity by any chance have either of you ever bump a curb when turning in tight areas sometimes you'll break the sidewall in between layers which weakens and over time will cause the blowout from the heat created from driving.

I posted on another forum also, to my knowledge no curbs, pretty careful there. Mine is a 38 foot fifth wheel, and always aware of my turning. There is always that chance , but if had I was not aware

[prndl]

Gun shot!

[Golfmedik]

Originally Posted by Lucky23

Just out of curiosity by any chance have either of you ever bump a curb when turning in tight areas sometimes you'll break the sidewall in between layers which weakens and over time will cause the blowout from the heat created from driving.

If the tire had been on the curb side of the rig, I'd be much more inclined to agree, but it was the off-door side which would make it almost impossible. I inspect the tires every three weeks before our trips and saw nothing out of the ordinary and didn't see anything on the interstate in the miles prior to getting off of it that I could've hit. I was not running fast and on a two lane road when it let go. The BOOM scared the trooper behind me more than it did me I believe. He saw nothing I ran over either, however the second the BOOM was heard the TST TPMS system I have went nuts!!! I would have immediately known what had happened if I hadn't heard it or seen the smoke from the tire in the driver's mirror.
Blowouts with these G rated tires are rare, no matter what the brand. I've followed several RV forums for years since they've been introduce to the rigs and have seen very few of them. Totally unlike these rigs with E rated tires. Although I do have to say that with the introduction of the GY Endurance, there have been less blowouts with them. Keep in mind though that the newer Montana rigs are too heavy to comfortably run E rated tires due to the weight of these things. As I stated, when the G14s are used up on mine I will either go with Sailun S637s strictly due to price of the 614s now as they have more than doubled in the 9 years I've been using them on various rigs. One thing I've thought about as well, for the price of the GYs, I can buy new 17.5" wheels and upgrade to the Sailun H rated 215'75/17.5 for just under the price of all new 614s.
Here is a comparison between the GY G614 235/85/16 vs the Sailun S637 215/75/17.5

[richfaa]

primary reasons for tire failure are over inflation, under inflation and exceeding the weight rating of the tire.

[PSFORD99]

Originally Posted by Golfmedik

If the tire had been on the curb side of the rig, I'd be much more inclined to agree, but it was the off-door side which would make it almost impossible. I inspect the tires every three weeks before our trips and saw nothing out of the ordinary and didn't see anything on the interstate in the miles prior to getting off of it that I could've hit. I was not running fast and on a two lane road when it let go. The BOOM scared the trooper behind me more than it did me I believe. He saw nothing I ran over either, however the second the BOOM was heard the TST TPMS system I have went nuts!!! I would have immediately known what had happened if I hadn't heard it or seen the smoke from the tire in the driver's mirror.
Blowouts with these G rated tires are rare, no matter what the brand. I've followed several RV forums for years since they've been introduce to the rigs and have seen very few of them. Totally unlike these rigs with E rated tires. Although I do have to say that with the introduction of the GY Endurance, there have been less blowouts with them. Keep in mind though that the newer Montana rigs are too heavy to comfortably run E rated tires due to the weight of these things. As I stated, when the G14s are used up on mine I will either go with Sailun S637s strictly due to price of the 614s now as they have more than doubled in the 9 years I've been using them on various rigs. One thing I've thought about as well, for the price of the GYs, I can buy new 17.5" wheels and upgrade to the Sailun H rated 215'75/17.5 for just under the price of all new 614s.
Here is a comparison between the GY G614 235/85/16 vs the Sailun S637 215/75/17.5

Same here drivers side front tire, pretty unlikely any curb damage . But unlike you I am more sure then ever, after hearing about your blowout, mine WAS NOT a blowout. Pretty sure I am a victim of a road hazard . My wife has great hearing, and she would have definitely heard it if I didn't, no radio blaring or anything, no there was no blowout.

Back to your weight rating ,and tires. Your G614 is 3750, my Sailun is 4400, big difference. I am sure those 17.5's will work, it appears thats what you are going to ??? .

My GVWR is 15,500, I am thinking yours is 16,000-16,500 and 7K axles ??. You are getting 405 lbs more rating on those 17.5's compared to the 16" Sailun 235/85/16. Not a lot, compared to going from the 16" goodyear to the 16" Sailun with a 650 weight rating gain.

[Texan]

While we are talking about the difference in GY and Sailun tires let's don't forget the wheels are rated at 3750# no matter whether you use GY, Sailun, or 17.7'' tires.

[PSFORD99]

Originally Posted by Texan

While we are talking about the difference in GY and Sailun tires let's don't forget the wheels are rated at 3750# no matter whether you use GY, Sailun, or 17.7'' tires.

If he goes to 17.5 ,that Sailun S637 215/75/17.5 has a 4805 lb rating, he would also go new wheels, he would have too, would they not have the rating to match the tire ,and the 125 psi ???

[Golfmedik]

Originally Posted by PSFORD99

If he goes to 17.5 ,that Sailun S637 215/75/17.5 has a 4805 lb rating, he would also go new wheels, he would have too, would they not have the rating to match the tire ,and the 125 psi ???

You are correct. That's the plan, IF I don't put 8k axles under it when I do the disc brake conversion like I would like to in the spring.

[PSFORD99]

Originally Posted by Golfmedik

You are correct. That's the plan, IF I don't put 8k axles under it when I do the disc brake conversion like I would like to in the spring.

You will certainly be covered, early on with my 2008 I was going to go to all that ,but never did.

[Texan]

Originally Posted by PSFORD99

If he goes to 17.5 ,that Sailun S637 215/75/17.5 has a 4805 lb rating, he would also go new wheels, he would have too, would they not have the rating to match the tire ,and the 125 psi ???

Yes, the 17.5x6.75 wheel is rated at 4850#. The most I have seen on 16'' wheels is the 3750#. I had 2 of the factory 3750# wheels get a hairline crack in them. I replaced 1 and when the other happened I bought a new set of 16'' Hi-Spec wheels. They look stronger as they don't have spokes which seems to be where the weakness is in the factory wheels. The wheels are still 3750#. I run Sailun 235x85x16's and they are obviously stronger than the wheel.If I were to go with the 17.5 tires it would be for the wheel and not the tire as the difference in weight rating between the two tires is very little difference. It seems the Sailun that had the blow-out was just defective. There are thousands of these tires on the road putting millions of miles on them each year and this is a rarity. I have as much confidence in Sailun as I ever did and I have been running them for 5 years with no problem. Anyone running 235x85x16 Sailuns is running well below there rated capacity and as long as they are properly inflated and inspected frequently should not worry about them. If I had an rv like the DRV which runs 18k to 21k gvw then I would have the 17.5'' tire which is standard on them anyhow.

[PSFORD99]

Originally Posted by Texan

Yes, the 17.5x6.75 wheel is rated at 4850#. The most I have seen on 16'' wheels is the 3750#. I had 2 of the factory 3750# wheels get a hairline crack in them. I replaced 1 and when the other happened I bought a new set of 16'' Hi-Spec wheels. They look stronger as they don't have spokes which seems to be where the weakness is in the factory wheels. The wheels are still 3750#. I run Sailun 235x85x16's and they are obviously stronger than the wheel.If I were to go with the 17.5 tires it would be for the wheel and not the tire as the difference in weight rating between the two tires is very little difference. It seems the Sailun that had the blow-out was just defective. There are thousands of these tires on the road putting millions of miles on them each year and this is a rarity. I have as much confidence in Sailun as I ever did and I have been running them for 5 years with no problem. Anyone running 235x85x16 Sailuns is running well below there rated capacity and as long as they are properly inflated and inspected frequently should not worry about them. If I had an rv like the DRV which runs 18k to 21k gvw then I would have the 17.5'' tire which is standard on them anyhow.

Mine was not a blow out, and it was not defective. Had a lengthy conversation on phone today with a Sailun rep, and thats the conclusion he came up with after the info ,and pictures from me.

A defective tire most always shows its ugly head long before two years of use and thousands of miles, damage from curbing or whatever, shows up pretty quick also, and as far as I am concerned that has not happened ,and the fact it was drivers side the curbing is remote.

He thinks ,and I agree, and thought this before our conversation , Slow loss of air, until flat,overheated, and started coming apart. Or got cut on a jagged edge of a pothole, sudden loss of air, and started coming apart.

I have a 11 year history with these original wheels on this 2008 3400RL and three sets of tires on them. Never, and I mean never have I had to add air to any one of those from a loss of air, I have adjusted air pressure , but not from a loss of air .Have not not lost even 1 psi in the five days since with the new tire, and 200 miles so far. Wheel is good ,as is the valve stem .

[Texan]

I'm glad you contacted the rep for Sailun. You probably want know for sure what happened but I agree if it were a defect then it should have shown up much earlier. Hope this encourages you to get TPMS because this would have sounded an alarm before the tire blew out. One of my wheels had a slow leak that I noticed the next morning at an rv park. I aired the tire up at took it to a tire repair shop and they found the crack in the wheel. I drove 500 miles home that day with no spare after installing the spare tire on the rv. The tire shop didn't have a spare wheel I could purchase. The next wheel that went bad had hit a blow out bump on the highway going through Cincinatti. The tire immediately started loosing air and I had just installed the TPMS before the trip and the alarm went off. I checked the tire and it was down to 80 psi from the 110 psi. I made it to a firestone dealer and they checked the tire and wheel in a tank of water and sure enough I had another wheel with a crack in it. I went to an rv park and found a steel wheel the next morning for a spare to get me home. When I got home I bought 4 Hi-Spec modular wheels and gave away the other 3 wheels to Montana owners for spares. Needless to say the tires were tougher than the wheels.

[PSFORD99]

Yes after this a TPMS is next , any recommendations ??

[Golfmedik]

Originally Posted by PSFORD99

Yes after this a TPMS is next , any recommendations ??

TST TPMS Truck system technologies. They now have flow through sensors that do not have to be taken off to add air. All you need is a set of metal valve stems, which all 110psi tires are required to have since the rubber ones are only rated for 80psi.

[GAinaMontana]

TPMS saved my my butt twice. Leaking valve stems both times. Thankfully got stopped before any tire damage or worse both times.

[PSFORD99]

Originally Posted by Golfmedik

TST TPMS Truck system technologies. They now have flow through sensors that do not have to be taken off to add air. All you need is a set of metal valve stems, which all 110psi tires are required to have since the rubber ones are only rated for 80psi.

Thanks, I will take a look at them. My truck shows air pressure, but the Ram 3500's don't have a warning , like the 2500's. Not sure why that is .

[PSFORD99]

Originally Posted by GAinaMontana

TPMS saved my my butt twice. Leaking valve stems both times. Thankfully got stopped before any tire damage or worse both times.

I can't help thinking mine would have been prevented with TPMS

[PSFORD99]

Originally Posted by Golfmedik

TST TPMS Truck system technologies. They now have flow through sensors that do not have to be taken off to add air. All you need is a set of metal valve stems, which all 110psi tires are required to have since the rubber ones are only rated for 80psi.

I took a look at the TST brand, it appears they sell the flow thru ,and the standard ones, same price. My question, I have to guess air pressure does not have to be checked manually, they can be seen on the monitor ??

I'm guessing it would not be a big deal either way you go with the two style of sensors, being that they just screw on the valve stems, more or less no different then taking off the valve stem cap to add air ?? The standard sensors appear to be less bulky, and protruding out on the wheel ?? I guess what I am saying is it a big deal to screw off the sensor to adjust air if needed. I guess a lot of guessing here

[CarWin]

Originally Posted by PSFORD99

Thanks, I will take a look at them. My truck shows air pressure, but the Ram 3500's don't have a warning , like the 2500's. Not sure why that is .

Oddly our dually does not have the TPMS system either. Im assuming only because its a dually.