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Old 01-20-2018, 08:26 PM   #21
beeje
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My 2011 3455sa has Kodiac Disc brakes that were installed by the previous owners. All I can tell you is that like mentioned above, I will NEVER own another trailer without them. The difference is night and day.

If I were to manually activate the trailer brakes without touching the trucks brakes petal, the camper would stop the whole rig !!!!. YES THEY ARE THAT GOOD. Enough said. Just do it and be done with the junk drum electric brakes forever.
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Old 01-21-2018, 12:26 PM   #22
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I installed them. It used to be the truck stoped the camper, now the camper stops the truck. If I prevent one accident, then they just paid for themselves and the headaches of the accident.
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Old 01-21-2018, 04:47 PM   #23
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Besides Mor Ryde Independent suspension, Disc brake will be the best mod you will ever do to your rig, hands down.
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Old 01-24-2018, 05:43 PM   #24
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disc brakes and shocks are my next upgrade
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Old 01-24-2018, 06:11 PM   #25
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I like the idea of disc brakes. Goes right along with the idea of DRW being safer!


Please fill me in on the shocks? I have heard of them as aftermarket and would like to know more.
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Old 01-24-2018, 06:53 PM   #26
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James ... as far as shocks go ... unless you go with something like Joy Rider (I'm not really sold on them), you're wasting time and effort. There is so little room between frame and axle to mount a shock that is not near horizontal. The shocks that lay near flat do nothing except provide a placebo to the owner. When the spring reacts to a bump, the shock moves about 3/4" due to angle and absorbs little to nothing. Don't believe me ... grab a shock and compress it by hand ... it takes some travel before it cushions anything.
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Old 01-24-2018, 07:30 PM   #27
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I'm going to stand firmly behind bshgto's initiative in installing his own disk brakes. If us old hot rodders had everything done on our cars buy "qualified personnel" none of us would have had anything to show off at rod shows and runs because we couldn't have afforded it. I realize not everyone has mechanical ability, but for those of you that do and don't mind spending a day of your own time to save a thousand bucks worth of someone else's labor rate ... order the disk brake parts and get to it. I've done a few and it's really not that tough. Swapping out the drums for rotors and calipers is very simple ... wiring in the controller is only a 4 wire deal ... running the lines is what takes the time. I agree in that I'd go with metal lines and not flex lines the entire length. You will have to go with short flex lines from frame to caliper or axle. I also agree that buying or renting a double flare tool and customize your line length instead of looping up excess line that comes in the generic kits is best. ETrailer has it all, but is not necessarily the best price. I got my Hydrastar actuator online from Trailer Parts Super Store, my copper/nickel lines and fittings online from The Stop Shop, some specialty fittings from ETrailer, and my rotors and calipers from Trailer and Truck parts.com. These purchases were a year ago, so prices now may differ.
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Old 01-25-2018, 07:13 AM   #28
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can`t make this stuff up

Partial Quote--diesellguy

"I'm going to stand firmly behind bshgto's initiative in installing his own disk brakes. If us old hot rodders had everything done on our cars buy "qualified personnel" none of us would have had anything to show off at rod shows and runs because we couldn't have afforded it. I realize not everyone has mechanical ability, but for those of you that do and don't mind spending a day of your own time to save a thousand bucks worth of someone else's labor rate ... order the disk brake parts and get to it ".

yep, last project was a 600hp to the wheels blown 408 stroker GTO. first and second gear was useless due to unlimited torque. By my hand only thank you.
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Old 01-25-2018, 04:05 PM   #29
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Hmmmm.....I bet 3/8" SST tubing would work and I use it all the time in the oilfield (we use it for control lines and chemical pumps). It would make for a really clean looking job since I have the tubing benders and you can get clips to mount it with.....
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Old 01-25-2018, 06:51 PM   #30
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3/8" tubing for brake lines would be mega big. 3/16" is standard size unless you are running say 40+' ... then 1/4". Several of us are using the copper/nickel lines ... street rod rebuilders are using it more and more because it's easy to work with, durable, and won't corrode. Insulated clips are easy to find for it as well. A roll big enough for your job is only @ $70. Yes it's rated for the 1600 psi Hydrastar. I don't know if you've ever tried to double flare 3/8" stainless line, but lets just say get ready for an experience. Most hand flares like you'd rent at an auto parts store won't get the job done.
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Old 01-25-2018, 09:50 PM   #31
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I was talking about doing this mod to my Montana and my friend (has a Montana also) said to watch out for those thin rotors. Are the Kodiak rotors the thick ones or are they thin?
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Old 01-26-2018, 06:14 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtlakejim View Post
Hmmmm.....I bet 3/8" SST tubing would work and I use it all the time in the oilfield (we use it for control lines and chemical pumps). It would make for a really clean looking job since I have the tubing benders and you can get clips to mount it with.....
Besides tring to double flare SS tubing which is next to impossible to do without splitting, the adapter fittings would be difficult to find without using the very expensive AN 37 degree versions which would use only a single flare. Then there are the calipers that are built for 3/16 (1/8 ID) line and the actuator which may not support that size as well as provide sufficiant volume at pressure (1600 psig). Then for any DOT flex lines - you will be hard pressed to find any for 3/8" line.

prndl, these rotors are similar in thickness to the '80s and '90s GM rotors which then support the GM style SAE calipers of the same vintage. This is what the 6K look like, 7K are virtually identical but with 8 lug hubs (yes, I did pull my axles and repainted them):
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCN8448.jpg (172.2 KB, 8 views)
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Old 01-26-2018, 07:32 AM   #33
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I have a source for both the SST tubing and the fittings. I use it almost daily. We dont' use flare fittings they are all ferrel fittings but I can get hundreds of different configurations including thru panel fittings. The tubing is rated well over 5K psi so no issue there. It is SST so no corrosion and very stiff so it bends into very pretty install. Basically I was talking about using it because it is something I work with everyday and have the tools to work with it. It would be way overkill for the job. My one and only concern is if the actual brake components come with threaded fittings I could replace with the ferrel fittings so I don't have to adapt. Likewise for the flex hose I was thinking SST braded Teflon coated hydraulic lines.


You guys have to understand oilfield mentality. We overbuild everything but then considering how rough the conditions you can understand......
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Old 01-26-2018, 08:17 AM   #34
Dave W
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtlakejim View Post
I have a source for both the SST tubing and the fittings. I use it almost daily. We dont' use flare fittings they are all ferrel fittings but I can get hundreds of different configurations including thru panel fittings. The tubing is rated well over 5K psi so no issue there. It is SST so no corrosion and very stiff so it bends into very pretty install. Basically I was talking about using it because it is something I work with everyday and have the tools to work with it. It would be way overkill for the job. My one and only concern is if the actual brake components come with threaded fittings I could replace with the ferrel fittings so I don't have to adapt. Likewise for the flex hose I was thinking SST braded Teflon coated hydraulic lines.


You guys have to understand oilfield mentality. We overbuild everything but then considering how rough the conditions you can understand......

I well aware of SwageLoc, Parker and similar ferrule/compression fittings as the HD gas turbines I used to work with use hundreds. Unless you get them free, a 125+/- buck line kit from vendors such as Kodiak, Demco or Eastern Marine with rust resistant steel or even SS tubing sure beats fooling around with a cobbled together system that you need to add at least 4 flex lines to make work. But with that said, it IS your 5er and you do need to spend some time scoping the disc brake mod parts out needed before you 'leap' so it's done correctly.
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Old 01-26-2018, 08:57 AM   #35
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I'm with Dave ... it is your fiver and your oilfield mindset, but ... you're making a lot of work for yourself in adapting down and up and possibly be mismatching the actuators. Both me and Dave can lock up all four at 45+ mph on dry asphalt with our 3/16" line if we were foolish enough to do so. The fittings on the calipers and actuator are made for regular double flare type brake lines. More adaptor fittings make more places for leaks. I would suggest sticking with industry standard material ... brake lines have been around for many years and have been made per design for a good reason. Giant stainless steel line and high dollar unique fittings to make it all work "just because" will be a foolish venture when the day is done. Cap off the well for now ....
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Old 01-26-2018, 11:23 AM   #36
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While I'm changing my brakes to disk I must install new bearings and seals.
What about going to oil lube bearing kits at the same time.
Any advantage?
Anyone done this mod?
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Old 01-26-2018, 12:23 PM   #37
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Apologies for digressing from the OP topic ... but I'll reply to prndl. I installed oil bath on a customer's trailer ... shortly after I added it to my fiver. Here's the link to his install. I'm the 4th reply down with a link to the actual job in that reply. http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/...highlight=bath Like in the reading, the Kodiac supplied two piece rear seal is a bit of a challenge to get on right, but with patience, it works well. Other thoughts are spelled out in my replies. About one year with oil bath and I LIKE EM! Some say oil bath is not for RV's as they sit and let the oil wick off the bearings. We've had them on farm trailers for years that sit all winter ... not an issue.
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Old 01-26-2018, 02:27 PM   #38
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Well the devil is in the details. I was only talking about the larger size lines because I have lots of it and the benders and such to make a really clean layout. The tubing we use is nearly bullet proof. The only REAL issue I can see is if they use standard threads for the fittings on the brakes themselves and the pump/actuator. If they do I can easily convert to Parker fittings (or in the case of the flex lines on the brakes SST hydraulic fittings). All I need to do is see a setup or talk to someone who knows such plumbing well and has the disc brake system already. It really isn't that complicated and will allow an exact fit with no slack setup (because you can bend the lines however you want and cut the tubing to exact length). I think once you see the it installed you would say "dang that looks professional".




BUT if the fittings on the brake components are not NPT then I won't bother. I will just use what the mfg. sells and ball up the excess line wherever or I suppose if it has flare fittings I will pull out one of my old flare tools even though I hate those old school fittings.




I should mention that I always carry some of this tubing around and make all sorts of stuff out of it. I have a fire poker/awning puller and it is so strong that I made hooks that I use with ratchet tie downs for the kayaks (fits down between bed and cab where ya cant reach your hand and no hooks)! I am looking at making some bike front tire chocks as well.....
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Old 01-26-2018, 03:46 PM   #39
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Fittings are normally conventional brake line fittings, 3/8-24 for a 3/16 flare. Some are male others are female(inverted).

The Kodiak calipers take a male fitting in an inverted flare adapter as does a Hydrastar actuator. Anything in between - could be either, depending on who does the makeup - but are 3/16 flare normally, inverted or regular.

Confusing? That's what I meant, above, about doing your homework
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Old 01-26-2018, 04:12 PM   #40
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That's what I am doing-----homework.


My question is can the flare fittings be removed IE: are the brakes tapped NPT and the flare fittings screwed into that? That is all that really matters in my decision making.


If the brake housing is tapped with standard NPT threads then I can switch out the fittings for anything I want and problem solved. If not then I will have to go with the flare style and be done with it.


Anyone on here done this install and recall if the terminal fittings were screwed into the brake and actuator housings?


But then even if they were it is a simple matter to use a flare fitting female on the hose end and go to standard thread at that point to use the SST tubing. Problem solved.


I will however do some additional research into the issue of fluid capacity in the line affecting performance. I wouldn't think in a hydraulic fluid system it would make much difference (it would in a limited pressure air system as gases compact more than liquids).


It was just a thought from the man cave for a cleaner and more rugged installation......
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