Jacking Up 5er

[ratfink11]

Whats the latest on the best method to jack up our 5ers? I am going to have metal valve stems installed and am thinking of using a 12 ton bottle jack near the rear spring hanger, 5er hooked to truck, landing gear up and opposite side wheels chocked and tire scizzors. Can you lift both wheels on one side at the same time this way or is it wiser to do one wheel at a time? Thanks!

[H. John Kohl]

ratfink11,
The way you described is how I jack my trailer to work on it with the tires removed. I do not use the chocks and tire scissor when hooked to truck but I would put a jack stand under there again on the "I" beam also for safety. I always hook to the truck anytime I raise a side of the trailer.

Make sure the jacking point is centered on the "I" beam, as well as the jack stand, and all should go fine.

While you have it jacked up you have the opportunity to adjust the brakes, re-torque the U-bolts on each axle, check the shackles for wear and check the brake wiring. And you might make a day of it by pulling the drums checking the brakes and repacking the bearings.

[Tom S.]

If you try to jack the trailer up high enough to remove a wheel with just a 12 ton jack, you will have problems. Trying to lift the trailer high enough that way also tries to lift both ends, putting a lot of stress on the jacking point. A better (and safer) way is to take some of the weight off the springs using the jack near the spring hanger of the tire you are removing, then use a smaller jack under neath the axle (between the u-bolts) to raise that axle enough to remove the wheel. Doing it this way only enables you to remove one wheel at a time, unless you have two 12 ton jacks and two smaller jacks, but it is safer and introduces no additional stress to the trailer. By using the 12 ton jack at the spring hanger, you are taking most of the weight off the spring for when you start to raise the axle. That means you are also removing it from the axle, so the recommendation to not raise the trailer by the axle is being complied with. You don't have to raise the 12 ton much, a couple inches from when it contacts the frame is more than enough. A one and a half or two ton bottle jack under the axle will be sufficient to raise it enough to remove the wheel.

For safety's sake, if you plan on doing any other work while the wheel is removed (this is an excellent time to check/adjust the brakes, wheel bearings and u-bolts), put some kind of brace under the axle (regular jack stands may be too high).

This is the method I use and it works well.

[ratfink11]

Thanks for the response. I like the idea of taking weight off the axle and then jacking it up to remove the wheel. I have read that the Moryde suspension will make it difficult to raise the wheels just jacking on the frame. True? Also jacking the front axle, will jacking on the frame in front of the spring hanger put undue stress on the frame since it more towards the front? Thanks!

[8e3k0]

If you are lifting one side of the Monty; it is best to have it hooked to your TV and that is to act as a pivot point. Next use two 8 or 12 ton jacks under the frame; one immediately behind the rear axle spring shackle and the other immediately in front of the front axle spring shackle. I use a 3/4 inch thick plate on the top of my jack to spread that pressure over a larger length of the trailer frame. Try and lift both jacks by jacking the rear one first and following with the front to absorb any sway load on the frame.
Once rig is high enough to your satisfaction block trailer frame for safety. A small hydraulic jack can then be used under the axle if you are going to do any work on the suspension.
If you are only removing one wheel at a time you can jack directly under the u-bolt underside of the axle on second u-bolt away from wheel you are working. You do not have to lift the complete frame.
Have completed this process many times with success; actually just had my wheels off last night to remove the balancing weights and installed beads called Counterbalance. A great product for balancing under any condition; No More Weights!!

[Tom S.]

quote:Originally posted by ratfink11

Thanks for the response. I like the idea of taking weight off the axle and then jacking it up to remove the wheel. I have read that the Moryde suspension will make it difficult to raise the wheels just jacking on the frame. True? Also jacking the front axle, will jacking on the frame in front of the spring hanger put undue stress on the frame since it more towards the front? Thanks!

Since you are only jacking up a few inches (max!) it won't cause any problems. Remember, you are only raising it enough to relieve some of the weight on the spring so when you raise the axle with the small jack, you are only lifting against the spring and not the weight of the trailer.

[Emmel]

My situation, flat tire on the road. I actually used, tho not recommended, the truck bottle jack. I used 4 wood blocks I use to level the 5er when parked and got both tires completely off the ground.
Using a 12 ton bottle jack will be more than sufficient to raise the side of the Montana.
Oh, since I was on the road I was still hooked to the truck, highly recommend that!

[bncinwv]

I did somewhat as Emmel did I think on the last "chinese bomb" blowout episode. I used a 6 ton bottlejack to raise the frame enough to put cribbing blocks under the frame on the side of the flat. The rig was still attached to the truck. Lowered the jack, placed it beneath the axle to raise the axle enough to get clearance on the tires to allow the flat to be changed. I always carry 6 x 6 oak cribbing blocks with me int he back of the truck. I also use them beneath the front jacks and rear stabilizers when set up.
Bingo

[paddler67]

. i have removed tires using diferent methods.when i had the disc brakes installed in elkhart the mechanic recomended jacking the rear wheel off the ground and useing a small jack under the front spring to raise the front tire. this method works for me.

[LonnieB]

My good friend Orv ( ols1932 ) is able to raise all four wheels off the ground at once, without placing a bottle jack anywhere on the rig. No kidding, I have seen him do it a couple of times. He lowers the front landing gear, chocks the wheels, releases the hitch and pulls out from under the pin box. He then lowers the rear jacks to the ground and presses the magic button on his Bigfoot leveling system. The whole rig comes off the ground as high as you need it .

[Art-n-Marge]

Great idea LonnieB... I'll install a $4,500 hydraulic jack system to install $20 worth of steel valve stems....

AHA!!! He still needs to chock his wheels - what's up with that? Yeah I know, safety counts.

Note: I wish I had $4,500 so I can change tires, adjust brakes, repack bearings, rotate tires, save boatloads of jack time, minimize (can't eliminate so there's a backup) jacking blocks and jacks, yada, yada, yada. Over the years that will be a great investment in time alone!

P.S. I thought the Bigfoot jacks replaced the frontlanding gear. I would guess that a flick of the switch would get to a height to unhitch, then you pull the TV out and another press of the button to level everything out. Another step saved. And go even higher to service the suspension.

[ols1932]

quote:Originally posted by Art-n-Marge


AHA!!! He still needs to chock his wheels - what's up with that? Yeah I know, safety counts.

P.S. I thought the Bigfoot jacks replaced the frontlanding gear. I would guess that a flick of the switch would get to a height to unhitch, then you pull the TV out and another press of the button to level everything out. Another step saved. And go even higher to service the suspension.

Art, I chock one set of wheels before I even begin to unhitch. Then run the front legs down to a height that allows me to unhook the Ford. Then I make sure the front is higher than the back; push the Auto button and it levels out. Now I have all for Bigfoot levelers on the ground. From there I raise the front and rear in turn until the unit is off the ground.

On your P.S., yes the front landing gear was replaced with Bigfoot. There's no room in front to keep the old landing gear also. Why would a person want them? Anyway, I have two bottle jacks that I USED to use!

Orv

[helmick]

We have the Lippert Level Up 6-Point System. It`s basically the same as ols1932 has except we have 6 legs.
It takes about 1 minute to get Monty off the ground. It might not be an investment, but it was my money and I sure like it.

[c214dick]

Amen Ron

[ratfink11]

Got it jacked up and wheel off. I will not be able to get to tire dealer until tommorrow or the next day. I jacked up the frame about 2 3/4 inches and then used a 6 ton to raise the axle. Should I lower my two 12 tons to level out the frame until I get the wheel back on or do you you think 2 3/4 inches will be ok. Alot of work for metal valve stems! I asked for them when my RV dealer put the G-614`s on and he said he could not get them. I have all winter to bring the tires one at a time to the tire dealer who specializes in truck and RV tires and I do not trust any dealer to jack up my 3400.

[worknomore]

I also want to remove one wheel at a time to get them balanced on my new 3465SA, so I'd like clarification on a couple of points (sorry 'bout the rehash). To do a wheel on the front axle, for example, from the discussion I believe I place a bottle jack (I have 2 10-ton jacks) in front of the wheel of that axle and centered under the frame, near or under the spring hanger - correct? Ditto for the trailing axle, but behind it? Also, what do you do with the one-piece belly cover so as not to screw it up with the bottle jacks?

I also don't trust any dealer to do it; as a matter of fact, a so-called 'Dexter authorized' dealer in my area said BS when I mentioned jacking by the frame - they jack 'em by the axles, & stuck to it even when I pointed out what Dexter says in our manuals!

Thansk for the help...

[LonnieB]

quote:By worknomore

I also don't trust any dealer to do it; as a matter of fact, a so-called 'Dexter authorized' dealer in my area said BS when I mentioned jacking by the frame - they jack 'em by the axles, & stuck to it even when I pointed out what Dexter says in our manuals!

I'm with the man from Dexter. We work on hundreds of trailers every year and I have NEVER seen an axle bent when the jacks are placed between the u-bolts.

[mhs4771]

Ron, I'm with you. Just used my Level-Up System to aid the Service Center in replacing my right front brake assembly that got cover with grease because the seal was never seated correctly from the Factory. Their floor jack wouldn't go high enough to lift the frame, just ran those level-up jacks down and up it goes. Can't wait til spring when I can really get to use it.

[worknomore]

quote:Originally posted by LonnieB

I'm with the man from Dexter. We work on hundreds of trailers every year and I have NEVER seen an axle bent when the jacks are placed between the u-bolts.

The 'man from Dexter', as you referred to him incorrectly, works at an RV parts & supply store nearby, which happens to be an 'authorized' retailer of Dexter parts (as stated in my original post). ALL Dexter reps who have attended ALL the past national rallies in Goshen have gone to great lengths to discourage jacking up these rigs by the axles. Several caution references to this are in your Dexter manual also.

I would tend to believe a rep who works for Dexter before some guy working behind a counter selling parts that just so happens to be 'authorized' to do so by Dexter. Your past experience is duly noted and appreciated; I was just pointing out the 'correct' way, according to Dexter...

[helmick]

I have to agree with what worknomore says. I have been to the two last national rallys
and that it what the Dexter reps have told us, never to jack up the rigs by the axels.