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Old 04-09-2016, 07:35 AM   #1
barmar
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Decal/Adhesive Removal

Would appreciate some advice on how best to remove decals and the remaining adhesive material. My decals are peeling off on their own leaving a sticky adhesive behind so what are the products and tools recommended to remove the adhesive? Sure looks messy right now!!
 
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Old 04-09-2016, 10:26 AM   #2
jcurtis934
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There are several archived posts on this. 3m adhesive removal. John
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Old 04-09-2016, 11:20 AM   #3
BB_TX
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Lots of previous discussions about it. I started with a heat gun and plastic scraper. Worked ok on some of the decals. Not so well on others. Bought a 3M eraser wheel. Worked much better. Another good thing about the eraser wheel is that a lot of the adhesive comes off with the decal as it flakes off. Whereas the heat gun and scraper left most of the adhesive. But there is still quite a bit left even with the wheel. You do need a good drill as the wheel works it pretty hard.

I used about half a quart can of 3M adhesive remover to get the left over adhesive from the front and rear caps. I held an old towel below a section of adhesive, spread a stream of remover across and above that adhesive, let it "sheet" down over the adhesive, and soak into the towel below. Then putting more remover on the towel I would wipe the adhesive off. The wetter the towel the adhesive will basically melt and soak into the towel.
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Old 04-10-2016, 01:57 PM   #4
grampachet
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Last week I have been removing mine and have been using...
1. Heat gun to remove as much of vinyl as possible
2. WD40 to soften adhesive
3. Razor blade to remove adhesive
4. 10" buffer and McGuire ultimate with lots of elbow grease and effort to remove remaining areas of adhesive, followed by razor scraping, Mcguire's and buffer over and over.

I have found that under the decal the smooth glossy fiber glass is filled with tiny hair line cracks. It looks like possible heat under the decals deteriorates the fiberglass, and I live in the great NW not in the heat of the south.
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Old 04-13-2016, 03:20 AM   #5
JandC
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I would follow grampachet's methods. When I removed the decals from my 2008 I discovered that some of them came off, including the glue, by using just a heat gun. Other areas were harder to get off and required different solvents and the use of razor blade scrapers.

Just a side note. After you get them off you will notice how faded your fiberglass is. With mine I decided not to replace most of the decals so I needed to being back my finish so that the "shadowing" would not show.

From my experience restoring a 1990 motor yacht I can assure you that only one produce will bring back the old fiberglass: http://www.eagerplastics.com/eagerbuff.htm

Use the Eager Buff exactly according to their directions, and you will only need a quart. A good quality variable speed polisher is also a must have. If you wet sand the surface with 1200 grit and then do two applications of Eager Buff your fiberglass will look just like a 2016 model.
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Old 07-06-2016, 04:56 PM   #6
marv54
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I had the same problem. I used professional strength goof off in the spray can. We used about 12 cans and lot of elbow rubbing.
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Old 07-07-2016, 02:24 AM   #7
tim43
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Been using 3M Adhesive Revover and any way you approach it, it is a slow and tedious process. Have a full set of replacement decals that Keystone sent me and they will stay in their original boxes.
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Old 07-07-2016, 04:28 AM   #8
kcjolley
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I used an eraser wheel. No mess other than rubber dust.
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Old 07-07-2016, 06:39 PM   #9
h2ojocky
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It took me about 2 hours to remove the mountain scene from my front cap. I used a heat gun and a heavy firefighter glove to roll the vinyl off. The light colored vinyl was the toughest. The remaining glue was removed with paint thinner and a razor blade.
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Old 07-29-2016, 03:02 PM   #10
mmrxboss
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Am just finishing removal of the decals on my 36 ft '04. I am using both a heat gun and a hair dryer. BE CAREFUL with the heat gun! To much heat will melt some of the coach. It is NOT all the same material. On mine the cargo doors and coach door are more of a plastic material. Now, ask me how I know this My front door is an example.

After the decal is removed you will be left with the adhesive. I use lacquer thinner and a 2 inch chip brush. Carefully brush a light coat of the thinner onto the adhesive, allowing the adhesive to soak up the thinner. Repeat until adhesive is soft. The brush is a good way to work the thinner into the adhesive. Then I use pieces of paper towel to wipe the adhesive off. When I am done with a section I wet a clean paper towel and work the section to ensure that all adhesive has been removed. Some of the thinner, full of adhesive will run down the side of the coach. It is a mess but the results are so much better.

Using a 6 inch var speed buffer from Harbor Freight, I then apply some compound I got from the auto parts store called TR3. Don't know exactly what it is; got started with it and it works well.

The shadow of the old decal is still visible but the coach looks a heck of a lot better. I agree that the fiberglass looks cracked under the decals.

Damn you Keystone for the crappy decals!
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Old 07-31-2016, 01:36 AM   #11
Phil P
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Hi

Here are the products I have used.


You apply this with a sponge if it runs down the face of the vinyl you are using too much. This works as advertised but because Keystone uses a very thin vinyl you may have a problem getting the vinyl to pull off in a sheet.


This works well using a sponge again try to keep it from running down the wall. The paint on some of the metal skirting will come off if this gets on it.


These are the sponges I use.


This is called a “stripe eraser” it is marked for use in an air tool I use it in a ¼ inch electric drill it does the job. I use it for all graphics that are in a location where chemical run down will contaminate my slide seals and caulking.

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Old 07-31-2016, 02:58 PM   #12
c214dick
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I replaced about 90% of the decals on my 2008 3400RL. Check the archives. I have detailed my process more than once. Everyone likes their procedure but bottom line is 3M adhesive remover for the residue. Spray it on and scrape it off.
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Old 07-24-2019, 08:02 AM   #13
grampachet
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I just bought this and so far after 2 hours of use find it works very well.
It’s a heated viny scraper from Amazon. I thought before I bought it that if it doesn’t work I can send it back. But it works very well so no sending it back.
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