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07-31-2016, 01:19 PM
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#1
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Mesa az
Posts: 2,945
M.O.C. #5651
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Fuse cutting out for landing gear.
I guess I didn't check the internal 12 V lights, but I thought all 12V was dead. Anyway, after raising the front end more than usual, it wouldn't retract a minute later. The resetable fuse kept clicking every 10 seconds or so.
I turned off the batteries completely and tried to check out continuity and voltage on the circuits. Couldn't find anything, so powered up again and everything worked.
I know the fuses auto reset, but what made it trip in the first place AFTER we were done raising the front end. And why did it continue for 3-4 minutes and the self correct? Did the motor overheat and short out? If so how did it fix itself?
Thanks for any help.
p.s. I am in Canada on the way to Alaska so don't really want the landing gear to stop working!!!!
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Tom and Gail
2013 Mountaineer 362
2012 Silverado 2500
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07-31-2016, 01:41 PM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lake Gaston
Posts: 8,773
M.O.C. #12156
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Many have posted landing similar gear issues and the fix was replacing the existing 40 amp with 80 amp breakers. We have done that fix on two of our units.
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Mike and Lorraine
2002 3655 FL, 2005 3650RK
2010 3665RE, 2015 3910FB
F350 crew cab dually 6.7
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07-31-2016, 01:42 PM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Salem
Posts: 7,547
M.O.C. #2283
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I would oil the landing gear good find one of the fuses if I could and in a dire emergency just hot wire around the fuse.
Lynwood
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07-31-2016, 02:39 PM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Bridgewater
Posts: 1,196
M.O.C. #13166
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I agree, lube up the landing gear. Maybe the motor did get hot after raising so high and needed time to cool down. But, lube is always good. I've had this problem with my slide-outs, particularly when the super slide is retracting on really hot days. Sometimes the fuse will trip 3-4 times while pulling it in.
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2010 Montana 3455SA, Mor/Ryde pin, wet bolts, TST 507, Progressive HW50C, GY G614
2019 Silverado D/A 3500HD LTZ DRW CC
B&W Companion
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07-31-2016, 02:41 PM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Paola
Posts: 5,739
M.O.C. #4961
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I had the same problem and had to go to the 80 amp fuse.
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Dennis & Linda Ward
Paola, Kansas
Montana 3735MK Legacy Edition
1200 watts of Solar
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07-31-2016, 04:55 PM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Mesa az
Posts: 2,945
M.O.C. #5651
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I wasn't clear, apparently. When it quit working, the fuse kept clicking on and off about every 10-15 seconds with no activity on the RV electrical system. IT would reset and click off again immediately.
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Tom and Gail
2013 Mountaineer 362
2012 Silverado 2500
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07-31-2016, 06:49 PM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Pensacola (mail forward service)
Posts: 3,198
M.O.C. #13740
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These are cheap, cheap, cheap automotive breakers that operate on the bi-metallic principle...two different metal strips that react by opening when heated by current. Opening can produce burning on the contact point that makes them more resistive, which means more heat is produced and they open with less reliability. Yours was having "heart palpatations" for some unknown reason...almost like your landing gear motor was still engaged. To strange. John
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2012 F350 6.7 L dually, 2013 3800RE with 6 pt leveling, Sumitomo 17.5" load range h tires, Samsung 18 cu ft residential fridge, 8k Morryde I.S. with disc brakes. Full timing since 2012.
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07-31-2016, 08:17 PM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Mesa az
Posts: 2,945
M.O.C. #5651
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Yes, I thought it was change too! Hope there are some ideas out there.
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by jcurtis934
These are cheap, cheap, cheap automotive breakers that operate on the bi-metallic principle...two different metal strips that react by opening when heated by current. Opening can produce burning on the contact point that makes them more resistive, which means more heat is produced and they open with less reliability. Yours was having "heart palpatations" for some unknown reason...almost like your landing gear motor was still engaged. To strange. John
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Tom and Gail
2013 Mountaineer 362
2012 Silverado 2500
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08-01-2016, 03:05 AM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lake Gaston
Posts: 8,773
M.O.C. #12156
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Only idea I can come up with, is if it does it again, swap the breakers out, with 80amps.
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Mike and Lorraine
2002 3655 FL, 2005 3650RK
2010 3665RE, 2015 3910FB
F350 crew cab dually 6.7
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08-01-2016, 03:11 AM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: McKinney
Posts: 7,155
M.O.C. #6433
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OK, time to throw in my 2 cents. Just to be clear, it is an auto reset circuit breaker, not a resetable fuse. A fuse once blown can't reset. And they are cheap. Nothing more than a piece of bimetal with an electrical contact on the end.
The fact that it continued to click with no apparent movement could be that the motor (or jacks) was somehow "stuck" and could not turn leading to high locked rotor amps. And during your troubleshooting it somehow freed up and operated normally. Is it still working correctly?
Could also be that once the breaker cooled completely, it started working ok. But opening and closing burns the contacts a little each time it does it and should be replaced. The pic above shows mine after multiple cycles. I would be surprised if you did not have future problems with it. Inexpensive and easy to replace.
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Bill & Patricia
Riley, our Golden
2007 3075RL (recently sold, currently without)
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08-01-2016, 06:10 AM
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#11
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Fort Wayne
Posts: 477
M.O.C. #17609
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Yeah, these resettable breakers form the factory are borderline and once they start tripping and resetting, they will do it more and more frequently. There is a notice on Lippert's site about it and the need to switch to a higher rated breaker. I just got mine updated under warranty to an 80 amp. They will also trip more if the battery is low as it will draw more current then. I see my system draw 50A easy, especially when they stall so it doesn't take much to trip the stock breakers.
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2016 Montana 3160RL w/MOR/Ryde IS and Disc Brakes
855W Solar System, TriStar MPPT-60 Controller, Magnum 2800W Inverter, 6 Trojan T-105REs
2015 Chevy Duramax SRW SB Crew Cab
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08-01-2016, 07:12 AM
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#12
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Pensacola (mail forward service)
Posts: 3,198
M.O.C. #13740
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As lynnwood said, if need be, you can clamp locking pliers across the two contacts to get your landing gear to work...or any other method you can think of. The threads on these breakers are metric as I remember it which makes it harder to slap a jumper wire across. John
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2012 F350 6.7 L dually, 2013 3800RE with 6 pt leveling, Sumitomo 17.5" load range h tires, Samsung 18 cu ft residential fridge, 8k Morryde I.S. with disc brakes. Full timing since 2012.
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08-01-2016, 08:03 AM
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#13
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Fayetteville
Posts: 4,200
M.O.C. #11401
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A second 50 amp fuse wired parallel will also correct the problem.
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