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Old 08-16-2006, 06:05 AM   #1
Trailer Trash 2
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50 Amp plug

I am throwing this out there so I can get a correct answer from a person of electrical smarts.
It's not about a Montana, but my mothers moble home 50 amp plug.
It is an earlier type unit with a 50 amp plug NOT Hard wired like the newer units. and the other day she had an electrical fire and everything that was pluged in ( TV, MICRO, Cordless Phone, Clocks, ) you know all the stuff that is normally pluged in.
The rvpark manager is saying that her plug was loose, and caused her unit to loose it's ground, and causing the electrical to switch every plug in her Unit to revert to 220 and not 115 as normal. how is this possable? those 50 amp plugs have 4 blades and 2 are 110 each and a common wire, and a ground. the park has a pigtail on all there service boxes that allow the units to plug in. not a receptical like RV Parks have.
If I loose my common on my home all the plugs dont turn into 220 VAC my stuff wont run. can somebody out there inlighten me on this if possable.
To me it seems the Park Manager does not want to take responsability for there error and bad conection.

Don, Georgia and Smokey.
AKA: Trailer Trash 2
FORD F-350 Turbo Diesel, Clydesdale, Banks Stinger, Prodigy Controler,
Pullin a Super Fine 2004 / 2980-RL




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Old 08-16-2006, 07:10 AM   #2
5ER
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Trailer trash 2,
I don't know if this will help but last year just after hurricane Katrina I had to set up my trailer in a co-worker's back yard where he had added a 50 amp receptacle but had not wired the neutral in at the pole. Everything was working fine but I was getting a slight shock while hooking up my satelite dish and also when touching the battery posts and some other things. It seems that the 120volt was running without the neutral for a few weeks with the neutral current finding it's way back via anything that was grounded. I blew up two converters before a service tech told me that I was running on 220volt. It wasn't really 220v but some strange voltage with the neutral being whatever path back. Sure enough, when we looked at the disconnect switch at the pole the neutral was not connected to the neutral bar. In my opinion it is possible that at your mother's trailer the neutral at the receptacle became loose or corroded and caused the problem. I hope your mother can get it fixed by the Park.

Rodger & Brenda, 2 Pekes Poogan & Jenny, Ashley the cat
2003 F350 CC sb Dually 7.3L Auto PSD pulling 2003 3295RK, 16K Pullrite Superslide and Prodigy Controller
Charleston,SC
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Old 08-16-2006, 10:17 AM   #3
Ozz
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Trailer Trash2- (Don)
I am glad she wasn't hurt. I have copied something that may explain better than I, from much smarter people.
You need the Neutral, as it is a current carrying wire, completing a circuit.
See if this helps. I think that they were not lying to your mom, but They may be confused about the 220, it really doesn't do that.
What repairs were made, other than the new male plug, or pigtail connection and the appliances?
Good luck with this.
Ozz
Why isolate the neutral in a sub panel?...
The neutral is only bonded to ground at your service panel. At all other points throughout your house, there is no connection between the bare (or green) grounding conductor and the white neutral conductor. Under normal conditions, the grounding conductor carries no current. No current means there is no voltage drop along it, therefore anything "grounded" to this conductor is at the same potential (voltage) as ground. If you bond the neutral and ground at the sub panel, than stray currents from the neutral return could go thru the equipment ground on the electrical devices fed from this sub panel. If you isolate the neutral and ground at the sub panel, than any currents would go back to the main panel, and go to the service ground. The main panel is where the neutral and equipment ground should be bonded.


'07 3400RL 2nd RTU
2 Golf Cart batteries 3,000 watt inverter, automatic transfer switch
Honda 2000 Generator, 2nd one and twinning kit coming
Maytag's with 220 Dryer
Stationary domed Sat. dish
LCD 12 Volt Amp gauge
LCD Tank Monitor
3 added 120 volt outlets
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Hadley Air Horns
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Old 08-16-2006, 07:31 PM   #4
Trailer Trash 2
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Thanks for the good information from all I'll copy this and let MOM read this to put both of us at ease.

TT2

Don, Georgia and Smokey.
AKA: Trailer Trash 2
FORD F-350 Turbo Diesel, Clydesdale, Banks Stinger, Prodigy Controler,
Pullin a Super Fine 2004 / 2980-RL




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Old 08-17-2006, 03:45 PM   #5
rickfox
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Ozz,

Good explanation.

Rick & Wanda
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Old 08-17-2006, 05:24 PM   #6
Ozz
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Thanks, I always read what I wrote, and think I could do better.
Ozz

'07 3400RL 2nd RTU
2 Golf Cart batteries 3,000 watt inverter, automatic transfer switch
Honda 2000 Generator, Maytag's with 220 Dryer
Stationary domed Sat. dish, LCD 12 Volt Amp gauge, LCD Tank Monitor
3 added 120 volt outlets, On Board Air; 12 Volt Viair 450C compressor
2006 Ford PSD 4x4 Off Road Lariat, Hadley Air Horns, Truck inverter with 110 volts: laptop, Color Backup Camera, Awning lock
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Old 08-18-2006, 05:53 AM   #7
Trailer Trash 2
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well I sent it to my mom and again thanks to all for the discription.

TT2

Don, Georgia and Smokey.
AKA: Trailer Trash 2
FORD F-350 Turbo Diesel, Clydesdale, Banks Stinger, Prodigy Controler,
Pullin a Super Fine 2004 / 2980-RL


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