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05-28-2014, 02:28 PM
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#21
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Okeechobee
Posts: 2,150
M.O.C. #11206
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Well seeing as how aluminum oxide is a very powerful poison I think I will stick to the Zinc anode.
Phil P
__________________
2009 Montana 3665RE
2009 Duramax 3500 DRW quad cab
personal web page https:// www.sallyscoffees.com
If you get a page not available then remove the "s" after HTTP
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05-28-2014, 02:33 PM
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#22
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Pensacola (mail forward service)
Posts: 3,198
M.O.C. #13740
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Anodes come in two types...magnesium for normal wear, this is what comes from the factory...and Aluminum, for use where the water is very corrosive. I have been using the aluminum rods for the last couple of years. It is hard to say how often you will have to change them. Easier to pull it out and look at it...if half gone, it is cheaper to replace then than forgetting about it and causing a problem. John
__________________
2012 F350 6.7 L dually, 2013 3800RE with 6 pt leveling, Sumitomo 17.5" load range h tires, Samsung 18 cu ft residential fridge, 8k Morryde I.S. with disc brakes. Full timing since 2012.
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05-29-2014, 01:05 AM
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#23
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Okeechobee
Posts: 2,150
M.O.C. #11206
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Hi
Water heater anode rods are made in four types Magnesium, Zinc, Aluminum and Aluminum/Zinc/Tin alloy.
Because of the varying water conditions experienced in an RV because of the travel around the country the Magnesium rod is not generally recommended because of its rapid deterioration. The Aluminum rod would last the longest but does leave Aluminum Oxide in the water. The Aluminum/Zinc/Tin rod helps improve the odder you may have in the water.
However the Zinc rod doesn’t depart anything to the water that is detrimental to your health, last nearly as long as the Aluminum rod, so I will stick to the Zinc anode rod.
Phil P
__________________
2009 Montana 3665RE
2009 Duramax 3500 DRW quad cab
personal web page https:// www.sallyscoffees.com
If you get a page not available then remove the "s" after HTTP
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06-13-2014, 08:52 AM
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#24
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Fall Creek
Posts: 1,328
M.O.C. #3699
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Got home last week and drained the hot water tank. Also purchased a new anode rod, but before I put it back together I cleaned the threads of the tank really well with a wire brush. Next gave the new rod 3 to 4 wraps with Teflon tape then a small coat of pipe dope that is ok for drinking water. Buttoned it all up, filled water system, turned on the hot water tank and no leaks. I think the first time must have been in a hurry.
__________________
Bob and Nancy Kassl Fall Creek, Wisconsin
2015 Montana 3440RL Legacy Edition, G614's, Pressure Pro TPMS, Dish Tailgaters
2016 GMC Sierra Denali 3500 CC SRW, Iridium Metallic, Duramax Allison Transmission
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03-22-2015, 03:02 PM
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#25
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New Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 4
M.O.C. #17205
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If 75% of the weight of the anode is missing it is time to replace.. the owners manual for the heater will show you what 75% looks like. you can google your water heater and download the instruction manual so you have it. the previous owner of our montana was kind enough to put most of the manuals in a 3 ring binder. The water heater I had to find.
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03-27-2015, 06:14 PM
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#26
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Ferndale
Posts: 273
M.O.C. #16033
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Depending on water heater can be aluminum or magnesium.
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