How is My Monty Wired?

[TYR]

We have a Progressive "black box" that tells us the voltage coming in, amps being used, etc. You know what I'm talking about, right? It gives a readout for L-1 and L-2.

We have a 2nd A/C unit in the bedroom, FYI.

We have a 2010 3585SA, rear kitchen.

Does anyone know what all is on L-1, i.e., what is typically on L-1 and L-2. (I know the 2nd A/C unit is on L-2, for instance.)

Reason I'm asking is seems like lately (or at least I don't recall it before) L-1 is running high . . . like 30 amps in the following scenario of stuff on:

* Fireplace
* Overhead living room lights
* Heat tape for water hose
* Drop light over outdoor water connection
* Furnace running (even just the fan)
* Kitchen overhead light
* Outdoor security lights
* Connected but not actually turned on: TV, Wii station, microwave, 2 tower ceramic heaters (one in bedroom and one in living room), DVD
* Rodent sonic repellent unit in basement
* Water heater
* Fridge

It's not like I was using the fireplace, toaster, microwave and vacuuming all at the same time . . .

With 19 amps showing on the "black box," I turned off the drop light. No change. When the furnace fan stopped running, the amps dropped to 16.

So . . . should I be concerned when L-1 is at 30 amps? It kinda does, actually.

So what's on L-1 and what's on L-2 (besides the bedroom A/C)?

Thanks!

Betty

[DQDick]

They are not all wired the same and not even all the same models are wired the same. That's one reason Keystone won't provide a wiring diagram. A number of folks have moved some of their big amp drawers from one leg to the other once they discovered they weren't happy with how it was done at the factory. This isn't a RV only problem, however. I had to rebalance the store's electricity shortly after we bought it and I've known folks who had to do it at home also.

[H. John Kohl]

I was told that the circuit breaker panel has opposing feeds (L1 then L2 then L1) or divided feeds (the center splits L1 on left and L2 on right)
So I would assume if you find open circuit slots only on the right you have an L1/L2/L1. That should tell you what is on L1 and L2. Now you may find that the first breaker is L2 and the second L1 with the third L2 if the red and black are reversed. Electrically it should not make a difference.
Are you confussed now?
This is my understanding.
I hope this helps.
I would say your large current drawing items are: water heater, AC, converter, coffee maker, microwave, fire place, electric heater.
I would watch 30 amp draw but not be worried when on a 50 amp service.
Safe travels.

[NCFischers]

You have two 50 amp legs coming into the trailer. If your breaker panel has the main two pole 50 amp breaker in the middle, one leg feeds right and the other leg feeds left. If the main breaker is on the side, the feeds alternate with the first double single pole breaker on leg one and the next on leg two, etc.

[mhs4771]

Betty, a simple way would be to shut just about everything off that you could (maybe you'll get a warm day in Jersey). Then while watching the read-out, turn one big current draw item at a time, noting which leg the current draw shows up on. Just an FYI, if you have the Fireplace on and the Hot Water Heater kicks in and is on the same leg, you'll see close to 30 amps. We're lucky as our SOB is pretty evenly split but there always seems to be a little higher draw on L1.

[rohrmann]

What really matters is, as long as the L1 and the L2 never exceed 50 amps each, you're good. If you are worried about the expense in a metered park situation, it doesn't make any difference if the legs are balanced, you are still paying for watts, whether on L1 or L2, regardless of how well they are balanced. The biggest thing you can make sure of is checking all the connections being tight, as the screws on the breakers in the panel should be tight enough that when you try to moved the wire, it doesn't move under the screw. That will give you the best chance of good voltage to all your appliances and outlets.

[Art-n-Marge]

Chances are, whatever we told you on how ours was wired, it would probably be different on your rig since liberties can be taken at the factory. I know this is a slow way to do it, but how about turning one thing on and off and noticing where the load follows? Would this help figure it out? I'd start with each A/C, then other heavy load items like microwave, fridge and each item on 110v.

[WaltBennett]

Like everyone has said, they're all different. Good thing is that it shouldn't be very difficult to make things better. It's mostly moving wires from one terminal to another. If you don't feel comfortable doing this yourself, a decent electrician should be able to do it reasonably - problem is that the not so decent ones cause the same kinds of problems in homes, so you need to explain what you want and then watch them do it while they explain what their doing. A good one won't mind doing this.

[TYR]

Thanks, everyone. You've given me some options to play with for mapping out what goes where.

I'm not going to get too "bent" about all this. We're in the same place we were last Winter and we're doing the same thing we did then, using the same lights, etc. Nothing's changed.

We're static working here in NJ not in a campground, so there are no RVers around us. Sure do appreciate everyone chiming in!

We really enjoy our job and environment here, but I do miss having other RVers around to swap stories, tips, tricks, etc. You guys rock, as always!

Betty