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10-02-2013, 10:49 AM
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#1
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 3,335
M.O.C. #10496
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Landing Leg Split!
The drivers side landing leg has split at the bottom and mushroomed. Has anyone ever experienced this? If so, how did you fix it or did you have it fixed by someone else? Cost? I hammered the leg back to as square as I can get it and it seems to be holding for now. I have it stored for the winter.
Click on each link below to see pictures.
"http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2818/10058544253_b03a94ee6d_o.jpg"
"http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7401/10058481546_3108843327_o.jpg"
"http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3722/10058422654_6f1b4f711d_o.jpg"
"http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7357/10058445265_23fa5ba230_o.jpg"
"http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5529/10058544103_b09d6ced10_o.jpg"
"http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7396/10058544023_586a8f88fb_o.jpg"
"http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5460/10058481216_f255edf185_o.jpg"
__________________
2010 3150RL
LevelUp, Dual 6 volt batteries, Progressive Industries EMS HW50C, Honda EU2000i Generator, Bridgestone Duravis R250 tires, Torklift Glowstep Revolution Stairs, LED Tail lights
2015 RAM 3500 Laramie SRW LB CC Cummins 6.7L Aisin Trans B&W RVK3600
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10-02-2013, 12:32 PM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Haysville
Posts: 4,261
M.O.C. #3085
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Just curious ... do you do a pretty rigorous "pull test" when you hitch up or did this just separate on its own? I'd just cut off the bad end to the next nearest hole and re-drill the cross pin holes per measurements from the old holes unless you often max out the leg extension. Perhaps someone else will come along with the price of just the extension.
PS If needed, just separate the driveshaft and even out the legs if you choose to go this route, then rejoin the driveshaft.
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10-02-2013, 01:02 PM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2003
Location: New Bern
Posts: 4,294
M.O.C. #311
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I think the stress was caused by an off angle slope of the foot pad. As diesel guy suggest you can cut off the bad part and remount the foot. It will shorten your extension will be a little shorter. You can replace the whole leg or maybe part if Ventura has that part. They can tell you best. That is if they made the leg.
Good luck and safe travel.
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10-02-2013, 01:56 PM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Victor
Posts: 940
M.O.C. #1709
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Wow, I've never saw that before. I'd do as Dieselguy and John suggest. Cut it off, and if you have problems from there you can get the foot that spins to adjust. We had one on our last Monty and it did hang lower than the other side.
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10-02-2013, 02:25 PM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Okeechobee
Posts: 2,150
M.O.C. #11206
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Hi
There not hard to remove from the bottom of the leg.
I would remove it take it to a welding shop and have them straighten the bend and weld the crack.
That portion of the leg doesn’t go up in the landing gear and this repair should work out OK.
I shipped one to "thekennys" here on the forum. If he doesn’t post saying there is some problem with using it I still have another one here I would be glad to ship you.
Phil P
__________________
2009 Montana 3665RE
2009 Duramax 3500 DRW quad cab
personal web page https:// www.sallyscoffees.com
If you get a page not available then remove the "s" after HTTP
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10-02-2013, 02:32 PM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 3,335
M.O.C. #10496
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I ALWAYS do a tug test but ensure the pads are off the ground. Could it be from backing into the hitch? Maybe.
I now connect the umbilical cord and lock the RV brakes as well as chock the wheels before connecting the RV to minimize front leg drag.
Not sure exactly what caused it but just need to band aid it until I can get the level up installed.
Good suggestion as to cutting off the extension to the next hole. Thanks.
Keep the ideas coming!
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by dieselguy
Just curious ... do you do a pretty rigorous "pull test" when you hitch up or did this just separate on its own? I'd just cut off the bad end to the next nearest hole and re-drill the cross pin holes per measurements from the old holes unless you often max out the leg extension. Perhaps someone else will come along with the price of just the extension.
PS If needed, just separate the driveshaft and even out the legs if you choose to go this route, then rejoin the driveshaft.
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__________________
2010 3150RL
LevelUp, Dual 6 volt batteries, Progressive Industries EMS HW50C, Honda EU2000i Generator, Bridgestone Duravis R250 tires, Torklift Glowstep Revolution Stairs, LED Tail lights
2015 RAM 3500 Laramie SRW LB CC Cummins 6.7L Aisin Trans B&W RVK3600
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10-02-2013, 02:35 PM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Haysville
Posts: 4,261
M.O.C. #3085
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I'll just point out that welding it will probably burn off the galvanize coating resulting in rust unless you paint it over.
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10-02-2013, 02:49 PM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Okeechobee
Posts: 2,150
M.O.C. #11206
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by CORattler
I ALWAYS do a tug test but ensure the pads are off the ground. Could it be from backing into the hitch? Maybe.
I now connect the umbilical cord and lock the RV brakes as well as chock the wheels before connecting the RV to minimize front leg drag.
Not sure exactly what caused it but just need to band aid it until I can get the level up installed.
Good suggestion as to cutting off the extension to the next hole. Thanks.
Keep the ideas coming!
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Hi
When our trailer was about 90 days old I had the center not the extension of the driver side leg fall down on the highway at 60 MPH and didn’t do any damage.
I am on my third set of landing gear and these are beginning to make noise. When the next one fails I will replace them with hydraulic landing gear and be done with it.
The long screw that runs down the center of the unit is striping on my legs. That is the only one you can’t get to to lubricate.
Phil
__________________
2009 Montana 3665RE
2009 Duramax 3500 DRW quad cab
personal web page https:// www.sallyscoffees.com
If you get a page not available then remove the "s" after HTTP
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10-03-2013, 04:30 PM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 3,335
M.O.C. #10496
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I ALWAYS do a tug test but ensure the pads are off the ground. Could it be from backing into the hitch? Maybe.
I now connect the umbilical cord and lock the RV brakes as well as chock the wheels before connecting the RV to minimize front leg drag.
Not sure exactly what caused it but just need to band aid it until I can get the level up installed.
Good suggestion as to cutting off the extension to the next hole. Thanks.
Keep the ideas coming!
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by dieselguy
Just curious ... do you do a pretty rigorous "pull test" when you hitch up or did this just separate on its own? I'd just cut off the bad end to the next nearest hole and re-drill the cross pin holes per measurements from the old holes unless you often max out the leg extension. Perhaps someone else will come along with the price of just the extension.
PS If needed, just separate the driveshaft and even out the legs if you choose to go this route, then rejoin the driveshaft.
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__________________
2010 3150RL
LevelUp, Dual 6 volt batteries, Progressive Industries EMS HW50C, Honda EU2000i Generator, Bridgestone Duravis R250 tires, Torklift Glowstep Revolution Stairs, LED Tail lights
2015 RAM 3500 Laramie SRW LB CC Cummins 6.7L Aisin Trans B&W RVK3600
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10-03-2013, 05:04 PM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Wilsey
Posts: 18,799
M.O.C. #11455
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Ours was cracked from the factory or something the dealer did, found it during the PDI. If it had a weak spot there it may just have failed from use over time.
__________________
Dick, Joyce, Diego, Picatso and Gustav
2017 3720 RL, and 2013 HC 343RL
Pullrite Hitch, IS, Disk Brakes, 3rd AC, Winegard Traveler, Bathroom door mod, Dometic 320, couch for desk swap, replaced chairs, sun screens, added awnings, etc.
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10-04-2013, 03:22 AM
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#11
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: West Sand Lake
Posts: 267
M.O.C. #10232
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Same thing we had on ours as it came from the factory! Didn't notice it till it was home. For such a small project, I thought not necessary to bring it back to the dealer. Just removed the drop leg, put it in the metal band saw and cut off the bad part. Reinstalled it and it's been fine for the last four seasons.
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10-04-2013, 01:29 PM
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#12
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 3,335
M.O.C. #10496
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How did you remove the drop leg?
I'd have to hunt down a metal band saw as I don't have one.
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by bobsals
Same thing we had on ours as it came from the factory! Didn't notice it till it was home. For such a small project, I thought not necessary to bring it back to the dealer. Just removed the drop leg, put it in the metal band saw and cut off the bad part. Reinstalled it and it's been fine for the last four seasons.
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__________________
2010 3150RL
LevelUp, Dual 6 volt batteries, Progressive Industries EMS HW50C, Honda EU2000i Generator, Bridgestone Duravis R250 tires, Torklift Glowstep Revolution Stairs, LED Tail lights
2015 RAM 3500 Laramie SRW LB CC Cummins 6.7L Aisin Trans B&W RVK3600
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10-04-2013, 04:41 PM
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#13
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Haysville
Posts: 4,261
M.O.C. #3085
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Raise the legs all the way up, then pull your truck with the fiver hooked up over a dip where say your driveway and road meet or dig out a hole in the ground as needed. Remove the foot and pull the shot pin allowing the extension to come out the bottom. My extensions are 21" long minus the foot to give you an idea of how much clearance you'll need.
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10-04-2013, 06:16 PM
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#14
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 3,335
M.O.C. #10496
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Thanks!!
Great info and ideas.
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by dieselguy
Raise the legs all the way up, then pull your truck with the fiver hooked up over a dip where say your driveway and road meet or dig out a hole in the ground as needed. Remove the foot and pull the shot pin allowing the extension to come out the bottom. My extensions are 21" long minus the foot to give you an idea of how much clearance you'll need.
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__________________
2010 3150RL
LevelUp, Dual 6 volt batteries, Progressive Industries EMS HW50C, Honda EU2000i Generator, Bridgestone Duravis R250 tires, Torklift Glowstep Revolution Stairs, LED Tail lights
2015 RAM 3500 Laramie SRW LB CC Cummins 6.7L Aisin Trans B&W RVK3600
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10-05-2013, 12:10 AM
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#15
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: West Sand Lake
Posts: 267
M.O.C. #10232
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If you can find a dip deep enough that will work fine. Unfortunately, I had no such dip to work with so I just unbolted the whole jack leg after supporting that side with a bottle jack & jack stand. Had to unfasten the cross over shaft coming from the motor, and unbolt the leg from the chassis. It really was not hard, just a little heavy.
Also, the metal cutting band saw made the job easy, I would not have even tried using a hand saw as the cut to be as square as possible.
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10-05-2013, 05:42 AM
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#16
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Victor
Posts: 940
M.O.C. #1709
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Jay, Have you got an angle grinder? Get a metal cut off disc and use that. Take a square and awl, mark all the way around the leg and cut it off. File the edges and your done. Paint and wa la.
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10-05-2013, 09:01 AM
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#17
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Navarre
Posts: 1,527
M.O.C. #9765
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Guys, Jay is getting the level up installed soon so this problem will go away on it's own.
Jay,
Didn't realize the little ole dodge had that much oomph. Keep the faith brother.
Mike
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