Hitching and Unhitching

[Wayne and Carolyn Mathews]

I think I can do just about everything our Monty needs in the way of inside and outside maintenance/routine care, including trouble-shooting, dumping, filling, and manhandling propane tanks in and out of their respective compartments. However, I really want to learn how to hitch and unhitch our rig.

Part of my motive is selfish; I want to be able to "do it all" (Rosie the Riverter mentality?). The other part of my motive is self-preservation, I guess you'd say. Wayne had a pretty bad heart attack 2 years ago,and while he's doing exceptionally well now, we know that he's living with a damaged heart (pacemaker and defibrillator implanted) and severe rheumatoid arthritis. If I could manage the hitching and unhitching by myself, I'd feel better about camping in remote areas (remote meaning without a commercial campground, cell phone service, or help nearby).

We think life is too short to live with a "But what if?" attitude. I know I can always get help by driving somewhere, but it surely would be nice to know I could, if I had to, manage the whole rig. If you can hitch and unhitch alone, I'd love to know how you learned. Maybe this kind of thing is taught by pros at some of the rallies, but until I retire again, I can't attend the rallies because they've always been scheduled during my school year.

Carolyn

[Mrs. CountryGuy]

Carolyn,

With ya here, I need to learn this too. I can pretty much do the rest, although, not sure I can do that propane thingy!

Al, recently, has been showing me more and more how he does this, he also feels better knowing that I can get from point A to point B, if something awful happens. He wants to know we can both get Tana somewhere if one of us has some medical situation.

Since we don't do a lot of "remote" camping these days, I always figured there would be enough friends/male types around that if I really needed help hooking up, they would lend a hand.

That said, I still want to do this better.

[Wayne and Carolyn Mathews]

Carol, I'm with you on that availability of friends to help thing. I have absolutely NO doubt that in most situations any of us could get help in a heartbeat if we needed it. Still, like you, I think it would be nice if we could hitch and unhitch without help. There's something about backing a crew-cab truck up to a nice 5th-wheeler that is a bit intimidating! I can line the truck up perfectly. But when it comes to dropping the pin into the hitch, I admit I'm terrified of hitting it so hard that the trailer lands in Siberia!

Carolyn

[rogue]

Hi Ladies, Glad you want to learn. Its no big deal, and no test or special learning needed. I was new to 5th wheels when we purchased our first one and truck this past June. The dealer told me what I needed to do and how to do it. Watched as I did it. That was it. I'd suggest asking your spouses to show you what they do, and letting you do it. The three things that I try to remember when I am hitching up are:
1. is the pin high enough but not too high
2. is the hitch parallel with the pin box
3. back up slowly
Remember that diesel has a lot of power, no need to zoom in reverse.
Bob

[eeoski]

Carolyn and Carol,

I too, still have the "hitched 5th wheel to truck" box to check. I've (kinda) learned that the anticipation is worse than the actuality (I say "kinda" because my brain says "you can do it" and my stomach says "NOT!"). I figure next time we are out at "Bella's Place" with Bruto (TV) I'll ask Doug for some "hands on" experience. I've done the part after the TV is backed into the pin and before we detach from the pin so its the ACTUAL backing into the pin part that is left.

Bob's point about the diesel having power is true and the driving instructor at Lazy Days reminded me to just let the engine do the work and to be patient. "Finessing" the accelerator is the key and that really isn't all that difficult. My thought is if I have the trailer wheels properly chocked that even if I give it a bit more than I want/should it HOPEFULLY won't be enough to send Bella into another time zone! LOL

If the issue is maybe it would be better that your DH is NOT your instructor for this aspect of your learning experience, maybe a trusted friend and/or someone at the dealership can provide you with the field experience. IF you are ever down in Florida, Lazy Days in Seffner provides classes (for a fee) to individuals who haven't purchased from them...a worthwhile investment in my etimation. The lessons include hitching and unhitching with towing and parking in between.

Good Luck!!

Robin

(I'll report back when I've "checked the box" and let you know whether Bella is still in the area or if an APB for her location has been posted!! LOL)

[capn chris]

Ladies,
Re. hooking up and pin height, my dealer installed a remote landing gear deal for us. Works from a "key fob remote" in the TV cab. Back towards the hitch/king pin, then adjust the height from the cab by pushing the up or down buttons! Works great. Just an idea to make your job easier. Good luck!

[Mrs. CountryGuy]

Rogue

Well, I don't have the diesel problem! SNICKER, as we have a gasser. OOOOPSS!

I do all the backing up Big Butt to Tana, I got a handle on the power, the speed, the finesse, the lineing it up.

Need to work on height of the hitch and pin tho!

Appreciate all the hints tho fellas!

[jjackflash]

Ladies,after professionally driving for over 20 years the thing I always do is block your trailer wheels,lower the tailgate and pull the hitch lever to open the jaws, line up the pin with the hitch plate,back up about a foot of the pin ,get out and lower the trailer edge to the point where the fifthwheel plate starts to slant downward,at this time plug in your electrical cable and breakaway switch cable.what you will be actually doing when you back up to hitch is litterly picking up the trailer off the ground with the hitch,this makes sure you will hook level and won't what is called High Pin Hook.Get in and back up slowly until you can feel a slight resistance,than apply you trailer brake as you slowly pull forward and give the trailer a couple of tugs. If for some reason the pin didn't hook properly and the trailer drops, the landing gear will only be a few inches off the ground and no damage will be done.After you confirm the pin is hooked,I always get out and visually check and make sure the Jaws are wrapped around the pin and than I padlock the hitch lever.Close the tailgate and and retract the landing gear the rest of the way up,take out the trailer blocks,than you should be set to go.Remember,every time you leave the truck,set the brakes
It would be good to make a check list for hooking up.
This is the way I do it,someone else may have a different way.
Jack

[Waynem]

Hi GALS,
I basically do it this way, with one exception.

Hitching/Unhitching 5th Wheel

Here is my exception.
I constructed one of those little 1 to 1 1/2 inch levels with magnetic tape stuck to the back. You can use a pair of scissors, or a razor to trim it to size after sticking it.

Here is how I use it.

You must "unhitch" one time.
After you have followed all the steps to unhitch, and before you level the trailer from front to back, put the little magnetic level on the side of the 5er King Pin. Put it on the service center side so you can see it. Remember, that you want to place it so that if you walk straight up to the king pin from the side you will be staring at the bubble. Now, turn that magnetic level back and forth until the bubble is centered.

Lever the trailer buy what ever other means you hav used before and ignore that little magnetic level.

When you get ready to hitch and have followed all of the procedures for tailgate, etc., lower the trailer until that little magnetic level bubble is in the middle. You are now DARN close to being where you were when you unhitched.

I always back the TV until it is just a few inches away, get out and check alignment, and make any necessary adjustments. You will find that your TV will sit up a little higher after you have unhitched for a while. This is the stress from the leafs and springs on the truck returning to "normal" after having 2000+ pounds bouncing around on them. That is why it may be necessary to make a small adjustment and my statement of being DARN close.

Hope this helps.

[jjackflash]

Good call Wayne,I have one of those levels from Camping World. This level has a slider on it,when you unhitch you can move the slider down to that position, than when you go to hitch you just drop the bubble down to the slider and you should be in the same position as when you unhitched. I mounted mine on the aluminum frame right by the switch for the landing gear,that way I can watch it as the trailer drops down.
I think those levels cost about three dollars.
Jack

[eeoski]

Wow, a Hitching and Unhitching University right here online done in such a way EVEN I can understand it! Thank you Bob, Wayne, Jack and Chris! This is a thread that will make it to the printer and developed into a checklist. Ladies, now we just have to apply all this knowledge and get the hands on experience.

Robin

[PamM]

Carolyn, I hitch up and unhitch, and you can too. Here are the steps I follow to unhitch using the bubble level with slider:

1. Put wheel lock in between tires (or chock the tires)
2. Drop right front leveling jack and extend about 1/2", just enough to place it firmly on the ground.
3. Drop left front leveling jack and even it up with right using leg adjuster. If you dont' have the leg adjuster, drop both front legs and set them firmly on the ground.
4. Extend both jacks about a half inch. This is particular to our type hitch.
5. Unlock padlock from hitch handle, flip handle lock back, remove safety line, pull handle out. This releases the jaws that hold the king pin in the hitch.
6. Drop tailgate and unplug trailer from truck.
7. Raise trailer with front leveling jacks until the kingpin is about 2 inches above hitch. You can look under kingpin to estimate the clearance from hitch.
8. Step out from under the overhang, and either give DH the okay to pull forward, or get in the truck and pull forward yourself.
9. Reset fore and aft level of trailer until the bubble is in the middle. Do not move the slider as it will tell you where to set the height of the trailer to rehitch.
10. Put handle on hitch back in the closed position, flip handle lock over handle and padlock.

To hitch up you just about do it in reverse.

1. Put slides in and raise rear leveling jacks.
2. Lower tailgate and make sure electric cord and safety line are accessible.
3. Reset trailer height to level indicated by slider bar on bubble level.
4. Unlock padlock on hitch and flip handle lock back.
5. Do not pull handle out.
6. Get in truck and line pin of kingpin up in the middle of your back window. We also have a piece of white tape on kingpin box to help with this.
7. Slowly back up toward trailer keeping pin in the middle of the window.
8. Firmly, but gently direct pin into hitch. You don't have to bang into it. The jaws will lock without a big bang.
9. Get out and look to make sure jaws are closed. You can paint them white to make this easier to see.
10. Put safety line on padlock, flip handle lock over handle, put padlock with safety line in hole and lock.
11. Raise tailgate and plug in trailer.
12. Raise front leveling jacks.
13. Remove wheel locks or chocks.
14. Check for obstructions, smile and drive away like you know what you're doing!! Oh, yeah, don't forget DH.

Hope this helps.
Pam

[Bill-N-Donna]

quote:Originally posted by Waynem

Hi GALS,
I basically do it this way, with one exception.

Hitching/Unhitching 5th Wheel

Here is my exception.
I constructed one of those little 1 to 1 1/2 inch levels with magnetic tape stuck to the back. You can use a pair of scissors, or a razor to trim it to size after sticking it.

Here is how I use it.

You must "unhitch" one time.
After you have followed all the steps to unhitch, and before you level the trailer from front to back, put the little magnetic level on the side of the 5er King Pin. Put it on the service center side so you can see it. Remember, that you want to place it so that if you walk straight up to the king pin from the side you will be staring at the bubble. Now, turn that magnetic level back and forth until the bubble is centered.

Lever the trailer buy what ever other means you hav used before and ignore that little magnetic level.

When you get ready to hitch and have followed all of the procedures for tailgate, etc., lower the trailer until that little magnetic level bubble is in the middle. You are now DARN close to being where you were when you unhitched.

I always back the TV until it is just a few inches away, get out and check alignment, and make any necessary adjustments. You will find that your TV will sit up a little higher after you have unhitched for a while. This is the stress from the leafs and springs on the truck returning to "normal" after having 2000+ pounds bouncing around on them. That is why it may be necessary to make a small adjustment and my statement of being DARN close.

Hope this helps.

WOW; I’m impressed, that’s a great idea Wayne. One of the most difficult things for me to do is get the right height when hitching up. I plan on trying to use that idea.

I think it will help me also in connecting since I have added the bed saver. If I’m thinking correctly I can just clear the bed saver and I should be at the correct height for connecting the king pin to the hitch. I’ve only hitched up once since I’ve put in on, so I’m not sure about the height and relationship of connecting but if it turns out to be like I mentioned then the little magnet will be a great help.

Can anyone else attest to my theory on the bed saver clearance?

[rogue]

Pam, on the hitch up, I'd add

11a. do the tug test.
After all hooked up but with the landing pads still down, I put the break controller on full, and put the TV in gear and try to move the montana a couple of inches. This helps ensure the pin is correctly in place. If by chance you do not have the pin in correctly, you will not drop the Montana on the bed rails, it will just slip out of the hitch.

Otherwise a very good check list.

Bob

[Ms McGyver]

A trucker educated us to use the trailer brakes to ensure a good hitch up or unhitch. In the checklist from rvbasics noted above, they don't allow you to realize the safety of employing the trailer's brakes.

When hitching, back under the kingpin but don't hitch up, yet. Connect your umbilical so you can employ the trailer brakes, then back into the kingpin. This procedure ensures that the Monty won't rock back during the maneuver. Knowing that the Monty won't move gives allows us a more secure feeling. Additionally, it helps you to know where the brake controller is during an emergency. We've had reason to employ them! When unhitching, use the brakes to sturdy the Monty so that you pull away from the hitch cleanly.

As far as hitch height is concerned, a level works well. Another method is to measure the distance from the end of the brake cable to the ground just after unhitching. Write it on a child's Magic slate attached to the inside of the gas bottle compartment door, a business card you keep in your wallet or jacket pocket, anything that you will find later when you need it.

To ensure that you have enough space between the hitch and the king pin when unhitching, paint one end of a paint stirrer with red paint. Insert about one inch of the unpainted end of the stirrer between the hitch and the underside of the hitch box. When there is enough space between there, the red end will bob down about 2 inches or more.

I hope these tips help de-mystify hitching. I know technically how to do these steps, but physically they are a challenge as I can't currently reach the hitch handle or secure the break away cable. We will be fixing that problem!

[H. John Kohl]

[quote]quote:Originally posted by Bill-N-Donna

Originally posted by Waynem

Hi GALS,
I basically do it this way, with one exception.

Hitching/Unhitching 5th Wheel

Here is my exception.
I constructed one of those little 1 to 1 1/2 inch levels with magnetic tape stuck to the back. You can use a pair of scissors, or a razor to trim it to size after sticking it.

- - - Snip - - -



I think it will help me also in connecting since I have added the bed saver. If I’m thinking correctly I can just clear the bed saver and I should be at the correct height for connecting the king pin to the hitch. I’ve only hitched up once since I’ve put in on, so I’m not sure about the height and relationship of connecting but if it turns out to be like I mentioned then the little magnet will be a great help.

Can anyone else attest to my theory on the bed saver clearance?

I use this (RV LEVEL - PROVIDES SIDE TO SIDE AND BACK TO FRONT LEVELING) mounted in the basement
It serves the same purpose as Wayne's magnetic level. It has the bubble on the bottom for true level and the top bubble is on the knob which rotates. So when I am high enough to come off the hitch I rotate the knob and center the top bubble.
This pictured item looks like it can be mounted only one way. Mine is like the description for their 14-8443 and has a hinge on the left side so mine is mounted on a front wall and hinged so it can level at 90 degrees to its mounting to cover fore and aft.

Your bed saver pin hight sounds right but one practice will help you refine it.
Good luck.

[Bill and Lisa]

quote:Originally posted by Waynem

Hi GALS,
I basically do it this way, with one exception.

Hitching/Unhitching 5th Wheel

Here is my exception.
I constructed one of those little 1 to 1 1/2 inch levels with magnetic tape stuck to the back. You can use a pair of scissors, or a razor to trim it to size after sticking it.

Here is how I use it.

You must "unhitch" one time.
After you have followed all the steps to unhitch, and before you level the trailer from front to back, put the little magnetic level on the side of the 5er King Pin. Put it on the service center side so you can see it. Remember, that you want to place it so that if you walk straight up to the king pin from the side you will be staring at the bubble. Now, turn that magnetic level back and forth until the bubble is centered.

Lever the trailer buy what ever other means you hav used before and ignore that little magnetic level.

When you get ready to hitch and have followed all of the procedures for tailgate, etc., lower the trailer until that little magnetic level bubble is in the middle. You are now DARN close to being where you were when you unhitched.

I always back the TV until it is just a few inches away, get out and check alignment, and make any necessary adjustments. You will find that your TV will sit up a little higher after you have unhitched for a while. This is the stress from the leafs and springs on the truck returning to "normal" after having 2000+ pounds bouncing around on them. That is why it may be necessary to make a small adjustment and my statement of being DARN close.

Hope this helps.

Good idea Wayne but let me point out that if your TV has airbags this method will not work - In our case we do not let the air out of the airbags until after we have unhitched. This drops the rear end of the truck several inches from where it was when the trailer was unhitched. To avoid over pressurizing the bags we don't but air back in until after we have rehitched so this method would not work for us but should work fine for those without airbags.

[sreigle]

quote:Originally posted by Mrs. CountryGuy



Need to work on height of the hitch and pin tho!

Carol, the bubbles mentioned for height do work. I've used one my Dad made me back in 1995, long before they were commercially available. However, if you don't have one or if you are at all unsure...

Just back until fairly close, then get out and look. Note if the pin looks to high or low and adjust to best guess. Get behind the tailgate and note whether lined up side to side. Move the truck as needed.

Back up a bit more and get out and check again unless you're comfortable it's close enough.

I don't have the remote in the cab and it wouldn't work for me, anyhow, because I cannot see the hitch from the driver's seat. In my case, I took out the middle headrest in the back seat and those two black nubbies where the headrest mounted are what I use to align with the pinbox. I'm having some back problems so I have to view it in the mirror when backing as it's hurting my back to twist around that far to look out the back window.

[Wayne and Carolyn Mathews]

I thought I better let you wonderful MOCers know that I have printed and stored all of your tips/procedures for hitching and unhitching in my "Everything Montana" file. Everyone did a great job of being very clear in the directions, too--especially all the info about using levels and the paint stirrer.

Sometimes I ask for help and then get bogged down with work I bring home from work (What's wrong in that world?), and I forget to thank you MOC friends for all the quick, helpful replies you post. I do appreciate it!

Carolyn

[JimF]

Wayne, I have to go with Bill and Lisa on the level deal. I bought one of the levels with the slide for unhitch height, since we have air bags it doen't work worth a flip. My truck comes up about 3 inches when coming off the hitch due to the air bags. You don't deflate the bags before un-hitching as the bags could pinch. I do as the others do, back up to the hitch get out and raise or lower the trailer then back under. Pratice a few times and it gets easier.

Something I did not notice in the thread, was probably there but didn't notice. We NEVER remove the chocks until after the hitchup and test pull. We NEVER un-hitch without chocks being in place and secure.