J t Stabilizer installation advise

[sfish]

Just recieved JT stabilizers today.Has anyone installed these themselves? Any tips or advise? Concerned about mounting the fronts with the enclosed underside.Any tips would be appreciated.

Thanks Steve

[Exnavydiver]

Steve, the instructions that come with the JT's used to be very good. I got mine back in 07 here is a link to some pertinent Information on my install. If you have a bike hitch on the rear of the rig you can attach the rear end of the JT's to that with the self tappers, if not then you need to find a 71 inch piece of 1/8th inch wall box channel. Here is a link to my photos I hope it helps. I am presently going through the archive files looking for the install instructions I posted at the time...Dave

[Ishler]

Just installed the second set, first was on our 2005. The installation was straight forward. I did have a close fit with the propane line on the street side and want to address the clearance. The instructions referred to two different tubes(the difference being the sticker location) but mine were all the same. It took me most of the afternoon but it was hot and humid and I wasn't in a hurry. Be sure to drill the recommended pilot holes, it makes drilling the main hole more accurate and easier. The fronts mount to the front of the storage locker so no issues, the sides bolt to the exposed portion of the I frame. There is a cross-member in the rear where the underbelly attaches, you can see where they screwed to it,

[sfish]

Thanks for the help

Steve

[royando]

The instructions will tell you about a "stepped" drill bit that works well enlarging the bottom hole in the landing gear legs and also works great to drill the frame after a small pilot hole is drilled. I did not install the rear arms because they parallel the rear supports so I don't think they will do much. The fronts are great. I found the drill bit at Orchard Supply Hardware, any good hardware should have it. Only took 2 hours for the front.

[MuddyPaws]

I've installed two sets. One on my 2955 and another on a Komfort.

In both cases I had to install an angle iron cross member between the frame rails in the rear in order to get the jacks set at the right angle. Be prepared to do LOTS of drilling.

[Tom S.]

Drilling holes overhead while laying on the ground can be a pain in buttocks. If you have a helper, this will make it 100 times easier: Use a suitable lever like a 2x2 and a fulcrum. While one person locates the drill bit and motor in the proper location, the second person provides drilling pressure with the lever. You can drill holes all day long using this method, but make sure to wear safety glasses!

[KathyandDave]

For safety reasons, you might want to use one of the impact drills available that make drilling through metal almost like going through butter. I've seen a Ridgid cordless do this and of course there are pneumatic ones. The impact drill might be safer in the hands of one person than applying a lot of force to the problem with two persons.

[jpkelpe]

if you don't have those installed yet, bring them to the Central Plains Rally and I bet someone will be able to help you

[Johnnyg]

"Sharp bits", follow the enclosed directions and its a piece of cake.

[dieselguy]

ISHLER ... be careful drilling into the cross members towards the rear around where the factory stablilzers are mounted. These two crossmembers are what the fresh water tank is saddled inbetween. Perhaps you've been lucky to drill close to the bend in the angle iron and not hit the water tank.

[gregh9999]

I deviated from the instructions slightly with the rear stabilizers. The rear jack(s) when down form a triangle, which gives them great stability side to side. So I installed by rear Strongarms perpendicular to the rear jacks, attaching them to the frame rails forward of the jack. This then braces them front to rear.

[Tom S.]

quote:Originally posted by KathyandDave

For safety reasons, you might want to use one of the impact drills available that make drilling through metal almost like going through butter. I've seen a Ridgid cordless do this and of course there are pneumatic ones. The impact drill might be safer in the hands of one person than applying a lot of force to the problem with two persons.

Use an impact drill with steel? I've never heard of that, nor would I try it. It works great for concrete and masonry where the bit is drilling and breaking the material at the same time, but trying to that with steel may result in broken bits and other issues.