Need to know where to look for leak-found it.

[DQDick]

We've now got a leak in our bedroom slide and I know others have had success by resealing some sort of trim piece. In my own thick headed way, I can't seem to find what we're talking about. Does anyone have pictures of this repair?

[DQDick]

Never mind. If I would have bent over and looked up I would have seen the screws. While I was at it I saw the place the caulk is missing from so I know what to do.

[HOOK]

I don't have pictures , Dick , but maybe I can guide you . At the bottom outside edge of the slide there is a trim moulding about 4 inches wide. It is sealed across its top edge with silicone. It separates. Probably the culprit. I bought the best silicone Lowes had and after removing as much of the old as possible , resealed. I also removed screws and filled holes withsilicone and reinstalled. No more problems, good luck.
Larry

[PackerFan]

Dick, I think I may have the same water leak on our bedroom slide. Can you show some pictures to help me out?

Was the leak down low making the carpet wet?

Thanks

[Rondo]

Dick, I have the same problem on the livingroom slide front edge. I told the RV Tech about the leak when we were at the Fall Rally and he walked around the slide, bent over and looked under the front edge and said "Yup, that's where it's leaking! All you need to do is caulk along this area and the problem should be solved." It's the same place as Larry (Hook) stated except on the main slide. I also have some of the tape coming loose that seals the slide top covering and the metal trim on the outer edge so I have to either remove the whole strip of tape along the top edge of the slide and replace it OR remove the section that is coming loose and replace it. Then seal the joint with some self-leveling caulk. Glad to hear you found yours and I'll let you know how mine goes also.

[DQDick]

Yes Scott, it's the same thing. Gets wet on the bottom carpeted area on my wife's side of the bed. I'll take some pictures and post as soon as I get it fixed. Should be later this week once it dries out and I get the time.

[pineranch]

Here's one of the best how to video sites to stop leaks.
http://www.eternabond.com/articles.asp?id=200#repair

Mike

[8.1al]

Ron,
On our unit the Eternabond is wider than the tape Montana used on the top of the slide. I removed all the loose tape, cleaned everything well and applied Eternabond over the top. This has worked well.

[PackerFan]

Thanks Dick, that would help

[Gkerlin]

I'm not sure where the leaks are all taking place - I'll have to go and look tomorrow following your posts - but if it is something that needs silicone from time to time to seal up - I have a suggestion for the finest silicone you are ever going to use.

Its called Silpruf and is made by GE. It was designed for sealing windows in skyscrapers - it has tenacious adhesion, extremely long life, and great flexibility.

It was used by Island Packet on their sailboats (I had one) to seal up the chainplates where they would penetrate the deck. It was a 10 year maintenance item. The stuff works and lasts.

Its about $10 a tube, comes in a number of colors, and you can get it at Amazon.

Sounds like this would be perfect for sealing up the leaks you are referring to.

[Bigboomer]

quote:Originally posted by Gkerlin

I'm not sure where the leaks are all taking place - I'll have to go and look tomorrow following your posts - but if it is something that needs silicone from time to time to seal up - I have a suggestion for the finest silicone you are ever going to use.

Its called Silpruf and is made by GE. It was designed for sealing windows in skyscrapers - it has tenacious adhesion, extremely long life, and great flexibility.

It was used by Island Packet on their sailboats (I had one) to seal up the chainplates where they would penetrate the deck. It was a 10 year maintenance item. The stuff works and lasts.

Its about $10 a tube, comes in a number of colors, and you can get it at Amazon.

Sounds like this would be perfect for sealing up the leaks you are referring to.

Greg,

I will concur on the GE Silpruf. That is what we use depending on the actual surface conditions when we are installing glass curtainwalls on the skyscrapers in NYC. All the of GE products are pretty good. I also use the GE 1200 clear silicone. It is an acedic acid cure (meaning it smells like vinegar when curing) but does a great job and will stick to about anything. Just a little isopropyl alcohol on a rag to clean the surface and you are good to go!

I found two other spots where the slide leaks. One is where the small curved gutter is located on the side of the slides when the slides are open. This keeps the side gaskets from sitting down on the slide and wind driven rain can enter. See the pictures I took of the fix I made to allow the gasket to sit properly and protect the inner area behind the gasket from getting wet. Basically I slit the gasket to allow it to sit down on the side of the slide and then siliconed another piece of black silicone gasket around the slit.

http://s962.beta.photobucket.com/use...t%20Seal%20Fix

Also I noticed water coming from the top of the slide near the outside wall in the corner. I went up and noticed that at the inside miter of the slide trim the silicone did not go all the way to the upper corner and did not cover the gasket corners. I sealed this joint on both sides and all seems well now with no more water coming in. Will post pictures of this shortly.

Les

[Gkerlin]

I figured that I'd throw the Silpruf out there because I'm sure not many folks have heard of it. Amazon just started to sell it.

As you can imagine - water intrusion on a Cruising Sailboat is a major concern as it can cause all sorts of expensive and dangerous problems. There are numerous types of deck sealants and each have their pros and cons but Island Packet was fighting with keeping the chain plates sealed for years as you get some movement on them as the boat flexes and water was eventually getting into where they come thru the deck, crevice corrosion was happening on the stainless chainplate and some folks lost the mast when the chainplate failed.

When they came upon the Silpruf 2000 it solved the problem once and for all. It adheres to Teak (which is quite oily) stainless, fiberglass, glass... It has a higher density than off the shelf silicone and is much stronger.

I have used the GE 1200 as well. Amazing stuff too. There are several differences between the 1200 and the Silpruf 2200 but the biggest difference is the cure. Like you said - the 1200 is acid cure - the 2200 is neutral cure. The neutral cure takes longer but has an even stronger adhesive bond than the 1200. The 2200 is also more flexible. That was why it was preferred on the sailboat.

I know that some folks are going to think that silicone is silicone but one tube of this stuff would change your mind. If you've ever looked at a bead of silicone that's been in the weather for a year or so and saw how the edges get separated and "feathered" from the substrate - not so with the GE Specialty Construction silicones - they adhere and they handle the weather. They are expensive but are head and shoulders above any stuff out there.

BTW - I don't work for GE - Never did. Just passing along some first hand knowledge FWIW.

[Bigboomer]

Greg,

Being in the glass and glazing business for 33 years I have seen lots of claims by the various silicone makers out there. GE was it for many years until Dow Corning really came on hard and pretty much took over with their R & D and GE almost shutdown their R & D (why, who knows but it almost killed them). The 2000 series we like to use especially on clear anodized metal as it needs no primer. Most of the silicones we do use are the DC products though just because of their availability.

Either way these products have significant differences to the typical junk you can by at the big box stores!

[Gkerlin]

Gotcha...

My experience was limited to those two products from the sailboat or I'd never have even known about them but what a difference.