Bedroom Slide won't go in - Montana Owners Club

scrowba · 09-29-2009, 04:38 PM

I went to close my big slides and they would not go in. I ended up shutting of the switch for the rear bedroom slide and this allowed me to get the kitchen slide in. But when the rear slide goes in, it goes in around 5 inches and then I get a ugly clicking sound from the motor and it stops. Any ideas? Thanks

Countryfolks · 09-29-2009, 05:00 PM

Have you checked the roof and under the slide? Is it twisting? The bolt on the square tube connecting side with the cylinder and the other side could be sheared causing the slide to twist and jam.

scrowba · 10-04-2009, 03:47 PM

That looks good, still wont go in.

Countryfolks · 10-04-2009, 05:11 PM

Where is the clicking coming from?

scrowba · 10-05-2009, 12:14 AM

It's coming from the pump at the front of the rig. It sound like it struggles to bring in the first slide and then poops out for the rear. I have tried turning the valves at the pump off which regulate which slide it brings in and still can't get the back slide in.

Waynem · 10-05-2009, 02:19 AM

When was the last time you checked the hydraulic fluid in the pump reservoir?

I'm thinking it is possible that the fluid dropped down. But, you can't add fluid with the slides open unless you have marked what your levels should be.

Can you pull the slide in manually, then check to see if the fluid is 1 inch from the top in the reservoir? Ill bet you already check the fluid, huh?

scrowba · 10-12-2009, 04:46 AM

I was able to pull them in manually. I was low on fluid. I filled it up. The slides will push out but still will not come in. I still seems like the motor on the pump doesn't have the power, it clicks when I start to pull them in and seems to draw a lot of power because i hear my co2 detector beep.

SlickWillie · 10-12-2009, 05:07 AM

Weak battery? The hydraulic system draws a lot of current; more than the converter alone can supply.

scrowba · 10-12-2009, 05:33 AM

I think you hit it on the head. My battery is out but I have it conected to a 50amp plug attatched to my house. I put my battery charger on the motor on the pump and they pulled right in. I am thinking it might be my 50amp cord? It is 4 years old and is pulling apart at the plug end? Should these cords last for a long time or do you replace them frequently? Thanks

grampachet · 10-12-2009, 05:52 AM

We have a sticker on ours that says the slides will not work unless the batteries are connected.

scrowba · 10-12-2009, 05:56 AM

Hey Grampachet, I will give that a try right now...by the way, nice truck

capn chris · 10-12-2009, 06:21 AM

You could also hook up the cord to the truck and give it a try?!!

scrowba · 10-12-2009, 06:30 AM

Putting the battery in worked. Thanks everyone for your help.

SlickWillie · 10-12-2009, 09:21 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by scrowba

I think you hit it on the head. My battery is out but I have it conected to a 50amp plug attatched to my house. I put my battery charger on the motor on the pump and they pulled right in. I am thinking it might be my 50amp cord? It is 4 years old and is pulling apart at the plug end? Should these cords last for a long time or do you replace them frequently? Thanks

Nothing wrong with the cord most likely. At most, you probably have a 55 amp converter. Pump is rated up to 100 amps. We know it draws over 50 amps quite a bit, as proven by the reported failures of the 50 amp breaker.

Tom S. · 10-12-2009, 10:51 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by scrowba

I think you hit it on the head. My battery is out but I have it conected to a 50amp plug attatched to my house. I put my battery charger on the motor on the pump and they pulled right in. I am thinking it might be my 50amp cord? It is 4 years old and is pulling apart at the plug end? Should these cords last for a long time or do you replace them frequently? Thanks

Unless damaged, the power cord should outlast the trailer! If it's pulling apart at the plug, it should be easy to fix - BUT - if you are unfamiliar with electricity, have an electrician or better yet, a RV place do it! I recommend a RV dealer because trailers are wired similar to houses, but not exactly, and an electrician may not be aware of this.

sreigle · 10-12-2009, 12:54 PM

Will, it sounds like it might work like the appliances. They require 12v from the battery. Take the battery out and they won't work. The converter charges the battery (more or less) but apparently does not provide 12v to the individual systems. I think if you next time connect the umbilical to the truck and have the engine running you'll get them to work that way. We did that one time when we had what ended up being a bad ground for the battery on our 2003 3295RK.

grampachet · 10-12-2009, 06:53 PM

Karl you got a good looking truck too. I am hoping to sell this soon and upgrade to a 08 Kingranch.

SlickWillie · 10-13-2009, 01:59 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by sreigle

Will, it sounds like it might work like the appliances. They require 12v from the battery. Take the battery out and they won't work. The converter charges the battery (more or less) but apparently does not provide 12v to the individual systems. I think if you next time connect the umbilical to the truck and have the engine running you'll get them to work that way. We did that one time when we had what ended up being a bad ground for the battery on our 2003 3295RK.

Unless the converter is like some battery chargers, and detects a fault when the battery is removed, it should supply its rated amperage at 12 volts.(I've never tried our WFCO converter) I've been told some brands will and some won't. If the OP had the battery removed, and the hydraulic system was trying to operate, I would think the converter was what was powering it. The pump merely did not have the current to operate. IIRC, Lippert warns of voiding warranty for damage caused by operation on the converter only.

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