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Old 12-10-2018, 05:44 PM   #21
Golfmedik
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I never would have believed they wired it to the dang fan!!!! Our 3790 fridge will work with no problems in our yard, switch to propane when on the road, but will NOT stay cold after switching back to power at the campground. I have looked and looked at what could be causing the issue. None of the lights are on as far as faults, but we do leave the fan open quite a bit....hmmmmmm
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Old 12-10-2018, 07:09 PM   #22
bowlesj
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I never would have believed they wired it to the dang fan!!!! Our 3790 fridge will work with no problems in our yard, switch to propane when on the road, but will NOT stay cold after switching back to power at the campground. I have looked and looked at what could be causing the issue. None of the lights are on as far as faults, but we do leave the fan open quite a bit....hmmmmmm
When on the same circuit as the vent fan the indication is not poor cooling. The fridge actually shuts down and has no display or faults. The fridge must be reset and turned on once the vent fan is turned off. So poor cooling is not likely related to a 12 volt power issue.

John - 2016 3820FK
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Old 12-10-2018, 07:26 PM   #23
mhs4771
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Just a note about Residential Fridges and travel. We've put almost 40K on in 3 1/2 years and this includes some pretty rough roads, and our Residential Fridge hasn't given us a single problem, it just keeps humming along and keeping our Ice Cream nice and hard.
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Old 12-10-2018, 10:26 PM   #24
jjfleck
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I have a 2017 FB3820. Now my question is- what am I looking for? I just went out into the yard and put on the frig with shore power. Then turned on the front powervent. The frig fan, the light and the front display all stayed on, all seems good. Is this problem something that happens over time or right away. Or am I not looking at the right stuff? I'll check it out better tomorrow when I can see a little bit better, you guys got my all nervous now and got me running around in the dark Thinking back, when I first bought my unit the circuit board in the powervent was no good- it would turn off for no reason. I replaced the board and it has been good ever since, but I wonder if this wiring issue had something to do with that failure.
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Old 12-11-2018, 12:49 PM   #25
bowlesj
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When on the same circuit as the vent fan the indication is not poor cooling. The fridge actually shuts down and has no display or faults. The fridge must be reset and turned on once the vent fan is turned off. So poor cooling is not likely related to a 12 volt power issue.

John - 2016 3820FK

Correction, I take that back. Actually I remember I've seen a Lo Dc fault displayed a few times on the 3820FK when the fridge and front vent fan are on. However, this is a full shutdown condition, not a poor cooling condition.

John - 2016 3820FK
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Old 12-11-2018, 12:54 PM   #26
bowlesj
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I have a 2017 FB3820. Now my question is- what am I looking for? I just went out into the yard and put on the frig with shore power. Then turned on the front powervent. The frig fan, the light and the front display all stayed on, all seems good. Is this problem something that happens over time or right away. Or am I not looking at the right stuff? I'll check it out better tomorrow when I can see a little bit better, you guys got my all nervous now and got me running around in the dark Thinking back, when I first bought my unit the circuit board in the powervent was no good- it would turn off for no reason. I replaced the board and it has been good ever since, but I wonder if this wiring issue had something to do with that failure.

Again, this problem only seems to occur on the 3820FK with the fridge up front. Also, if you have the problem the fridge display will go blank or display Lo Dc when the forward vent fan is turned on. It doesn't appear, based on your comments, you have this problem and doubtful this condition was related to your vent fan board problem.

John - 2016 3820FK
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Old 12-11-2018, 07:30 PM   #27
jjfleck
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Just noticed my typo, I've got a 2017 3820FK. Only I didn't get a chance to look over frig/vent wiring. I haven't noticed any error codes or blank screens but who knows maybe I just haven't caught it. I just didn't really know what I was looking for.
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Old 12-31-2018, 10:18 AM   #28
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Well I just got my trailer back after being at the dealer for a month because my refrigerator never worked from the get go it took Keystone 3 weeks to get the dealer a new refrigerator, they said everything was bad cooling unit circuit board so they installed a new one so lets see how this one works It;s a 2118 Norcold I am thinking now I should have went with a residential refrigerator
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Old 12-31-2018, 09:54 PM   #29
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When we use the vent fan in our 3820 FK, it shuts off the refrigerator and we need to reset with power button. At this time itís inoperable on shore power it will only work in the propane mode and does not display a low dc code. We have also discovered that the front power shade will not work while the fan is on. Check your power shades.
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Old 01-01-2019, 01:54 PM   #30
jeffba
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I feel for all of you with this issue. Seems maybe someone needs a better schematic.
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Old 01-01-2019, 03:09 PM   #31
Wicked1
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I have had RV refers both Dometic and Norcold and in the summer heat they all seem to freeze up or get ice build up in the freezer. When we bought our new 2018 3121RL we considered the 3120 with the Norcold 18cft but read about issues. So we went with the residential Samsung 18cft with ice maker and have not looked back. We donít dry camp and our batteries run the fridge while driving from home to Florida for about 36 hours so we donít need the RV fridge never go off grid and if we do I have a small gender to run refer, charge batteries and run one AC.

If I remember correctly CW gets $4,800 for that Norcold RV fridge and I can replace my Samsung with another for $900.00 so we are enjoying the Residential.

Friends of ours who travel a lot have the same fridge but a diff Montana and after 2 -3 years no issues.
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