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Old 07-14-2018, 07:47 AM   #1
mtheo
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Towing 5er with short bed truck, 5'

A friend just got a nice Chevy Duramax to tow a future 5er, I think it has a 5 or 5-1/2' foot bed. Has anybody tried that and will a slider work without damage to truck. Seems short.🙄
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Old 07-14-2018, 08:18 AM   #2
1retired06
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Would not pull without a slider. They are designed for short beds.
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Old 07-14-2018, 08:30 AM   #3
Bad Moon
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Duramax 6.6 only available in 2500 and 3500 series, which come with a 6-1/2 ft and 8 ft bed . No problem pulling with the 6-1/2 ft bed. A slider hitch is recommended. 2019 Silverado 1500 with the 5 ft bed will be available with the new 3.0 duramax in-line 6, but It does not have the towing capacity to pull a large 5 er.
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Old 07-14-2018, 08:34 AM   #4
JetMech
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Reese Side Winder Pinbox

Cab clearance has, in the past, been addressed with 5th wheel hitch changes. However, I have found the best way to address this issue is a change of the pinbox.

I had a slider for about 5 years. I had a couple of issues with it. First and foremost you better not forget to let your tailgate down BEFORE you slide your hitch. Unless your pinbox is set really high, the aft end of you pinbox will hit the front side of your tailgate. Now, you're in a real predicament because your hitch is LOCKED in the rear position and it's jammed into your tailgate so bad you can't get your tailgate to unlock. Plus it will damage your tailgate. The other issue is the loud clunking sound when starting and stopping. A slider has to be able to slide, so the mechanism has to have a good bit of slop in it to work. All this slop makes a lot of banging back and forth when starting and stopping. This can't be good for the hitch or the RV.

The Reese Sidewinder binbox swivels where it mounts to the RV not at the 5th wheel. There is a large steel block that bolts onto the pinbox directly behind the pin. This block prevents the pinbox from turning at the 5th wheel by tightly fitting in the 5th wheel entrance channel. This moves the pivot point back to the pinbox mount on the RV which is usually over 2 feet to the rear. This gives plenty of cab clearance for the truck. I've had mine at a full 90 degrees with no problem.

Reese also has what they call the Airborne Sidewinder. I actually have this one installed on my Monty. It has an air shock installed within the pinbox to help reduce hitch shock.

This pinbox is way better than the slider I had. Reese is not the only manufacture of this type of pinbox. I only mention it because it is the brand I have and I LOVE IT!!!!

Hope this helps.
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Old 07-23-2018, 10:33 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetMech View Post

I had a slider for about 5 years. I had a couple of issues with it. First and foremost you better not forget to let your tailgate down BEFORE you slide your hitch. Unless your pinbox is set really high, the aft end of you pinbox will hit the front side of your tailgate. Now, you're in a real predicament because your hitch is LOCKED in the rear position and it's jammed into your tailgate so bad you can't get your tailgate to unlock. Plus it will damage your tailgate. The other issue is the loud clunking sound when starting and stopping. A slider has to be able to slide, so the mechanism has to have a good bit of slop in it to work. All this slop makes a lot of banging back and forth when starting and stopping. This can't be good for the hitch or the RV.
Pulled over 73k with two manual sliders. First a Reese & then a Curt. Have never experienced either of these issues. Only bad thing about manual sliders is you have to remember to use them. Always use it in camp grounds and getting the 5'er in my driveway. Only two other times was it required. Both times in filling stations.
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Old 07-14-2018, 08:42 AM   #6
Mike117
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I have a pullrite and I have never had any issue with tailgate problems or hitting. It is all automatic. Also if your slider is banging when starting and stopping with out the 5er on it. It is a simple adjustment. I may have gone with the sidewinder if I had found it first but instead I am staying with the pullrite and switching the hitch pin to an Airborne. My truck has a 6.5 bed Chevy.
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Old 07-14-2018, 08:57 AM   #7
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slider hitch

I also have a Pullrite auto slider. If I put the tailgate down before I backed and tried to turn I'm sure the tailgate would hit the trailer. Adjusting to reduce chucking is a easy proposition but needs to be done 2 or 3 times yearly depending on amount of use. The Pullrite was on the 2013 Ram 2500 when I bought it as a 5er newbie who did not know about the need for such. I am glad I have it to reduce the chance of damage as I have been known to forget things sometimes unlike some people who never make a mistake.
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Old 07-14-2018, 09:03 AM   #8
TLightning
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I would not tow a 5th wheel with a short bed...unless there were some kind of extenuating circumstances. LB tows better, rides better and I can always use the bed space. Also, I replaced the OEM fuel tank with a 70 gallon model. Got the extra fuel without loosing bed space.
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Old 07-14-2018, 04:00 PM   #9
DQDick
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Have a Ram Maxi-cab which is a short bed and wouldn't be without it. Pullrite hitch and over 70,000 miles. Love the room in the cab the short bed gives us. Large cage in the back and the cats love it.
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Old 07-15-2018, 07:32 AM   #10
beeje
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I personally have never owned a short bed truck, and never will. I don't see the point in saving a couple of feet in length and having to buy special hitches Etc. and having to worry about the camper hitting the cab.
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Old 07-15-2018, 11:36 AM   #11
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I personally have never owned a short bed truck, and never will. I don't see the point in saving a couple of feet in length and having to buy special hitches Etc. and having to worry about the camper hitting the cab.
Its great to be an American with lots of options. One size rarely fits all. For some, they don't care to use a long bed as a daily driver, live in a more congested area where parking can be a real challenge or the long bed will not fit in their garage. A slider is a lot less expensive than a garage remodel or a new house. Agree that a long bed is a better tow vehicle but some can't afford a dedicated tow vehicle.
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Old 07-23-2018, 01:19 PM   #12
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Its great to be an American with lots of options. One size rarely fits all. For some, they don't care to use a long bed as a daily driver, live in a more congested area where parking can be a real challenge or the long bed will not fit in their garage. A slider is a lot less expensive than a garage remodel or a new house. Agree that a long bed is a better tow vehicle but some can't afford a dedicated tow vehicle.
I agree Both of our F-350's have been long beds and a dedicated tow vehicle. The F-350 crew cab, long bed is a pain to drive. When on a road trip when we stay at a CG we do have to drive it for our sightseeing and it is no fun. We are always looking for a Dually parking spot. There is about 20 things we can not do with a long bed dually but we purchased it to tow a heavy 5th wheel.
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Old 07-15-2018, 08:01 AM   #13
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If it is a Duramax it will have at least a 6 1/2 foot bed. A lot depends on the trailer. If it is a newer model with a high clearance front cap then that helps a lot. If so, a B&W hitch will do the trick. Do the math for cab clearances before spending money on a hitch. You may find that you don't need a slider nor the expense/issues. I have the aforementioned setup and it is rock solid and clearance to spare.
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Old 07-15-2018, 09:20 AM   #14
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Mountain Man, not always true try making I tight turn with the truck climbing up the entrance to a fuel stop. I have seen short wheel base trucks hit the RV when the RV is neer leavel and the tv is climbing the entrance to the lot.

2X what beeje said.
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Old 07-15-2018, 10:42 AM   #15
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I have an Andersen Ultimate 20K with a short bed Ram can go nearly 90 degrees with no problem No chucking Very easy to hook and unhook Hitches are like trucks Whatever you have is best
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Old 07-22-2018, 05:35 PM   #16
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ditto Anderson Ultimate

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I have an Andersen Ultimate 20K with a short bed Ram can go nearly 90 degrees with no problem No chucking Very easy to hook and unhook Hitches are like trucks Whatever you have is best
I have a shortbed Ford F350 and also use an Anderson Ultimate. Montana's front end are designed to be able to turn tighter radius even with a shortbed tv.
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Old 07-22-2018, 07:04 PM   #17
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I have a shortbed Ford F350 and also use an Anderson Ultimate. Montana's front end are designed to be able to turn tighter radius even with a shortbed tv.
While that is mostly true and my 3711FL has those corner cutouts, I touched the front corner of the FW to the cab maneuvering at a gas station. No damage other than rubbed paint, but now I can get to 90 degrees with the slider if need be.
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Old 07-15-2018, 12:48 PM   #18
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This is starting to look like the DRW vs. SRW argument. I pull my HC with a short bed. It rides and handles just fine, thank you. And although I have a slider hitch, have never needed to use the slide.
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Old 07-15-2018, 01:04 PM   #19
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If you get a slider, make sure it is easy to engage the slider. My Husky was hard to engage and would hurt my shoulder yanking on the lever.
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Old 07-15-2018, 10:32 PM   #20
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Pullrite Slider

i've had a Pullrite SuperSlider #4400 on my 2007 Sierra 2500 for 9 years and have never regretted the extra cost for an auto slider. You just need to dent your cab and trailer cap once to pay the extra cost of a slider.

Yes, you need to clean and lube the rails every so often (I clean the rails when I take the hitch out of the truck bed and the end of the season) but the peace of mind is worth it.

My hitch is heavy, over 200#, and I have a winch in my garage to lift it out of the truck bed. Then I simply twist and remove 4 metal posts and I have a flat bed with no intrusions, just four small holes.

The newer SuperSlides use a vinyl/plastic type plate instead of grease.

I love mine and wouldn't be without it.
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