TV advice

[drjjj]

We are about to order our first trailer, a 3400RL. I have a 99 F250 SD with the 7.3 diesel and the stock trailering package. I have towed tandem trailers up to 35 feet several times with no problems. The vehicle is rated by Ford to tow 13,500. I would like advice regarding hitch choices. The truck only has 76K miles on it, and I intend to keep it for four more years. I have pretty reliable information that Toyota intends to challenge the big 3 big truck market with a 2010 model. I am not sold on Toyota, but I figure it will make the big 3 rise to the occasion, so to speak. I have not done anything major to the truck other than to upgrade the shocks when they wore out, and have a Rhino liner installed. I am contemplating having one of the "Superchips" installed. I am wondering if any of the after market stuff like the Banks systems makes any economic sense, considering increased efficiency/resale value vs. cost. I should add that my wife and I will be living in the trailer at an RV park full time for a year while we have our next house (we are down-sizing) built. Our towing for the first year, at least, will be short, weekend trips. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[stiles watson]

Before I spent all that money on Banks, etc., I would tow that mighty fine 3400 and see what I got. If you have a long bed, any decent 16 K hitch will do the trick. If you have a short bed (anything less than 8'), then you want a slider hitch.

In my opinion, if you want to use a super chip, get a reprogrammer like the Hypertech so you can reprogram it to stock when not pulling. I like the 7.3 L diesel, a tried and true engine.

If you get too much sag when you hook up to the Monty, you may want to consider air bags or other devices that address the sag issue.

Don't worry, someone will come along in a minute an denigrate what I have said. But you didn't ask what truck you should buy. You asked what you might do to what you have. So vis-a-vis, my answers.

[lightningjack11]

I love my 7.3L. As far as towability your F250 will do fine for towing the 3400 but you may exceed Ford specs a little while towing. When Ford tells you on charts and manuals that it can tow so much read all of the writing. It is usually based on a certain truck weight and condition such as loading. GVWR and GCWR are the specifications you need to know. From these you can determine what weight you can pull and what weight you can have for pin weight before exceeding spec.

Check my recent post on GVWR,GCWR, and pin weight. Just click on my name and then click on the posts in my profile.
(Click on this post) http://montanaadministrator.forumco....C_ID~14966.asp

[lightningjack11]

I also use the Superchips 1705 programmer.

What it does is remove the stock program and stores it in the programmer and installs a selected program into your stock chip. I am currently using "Towsafe Program" The programmer also read approximately 256 error codes, both PO andP1 codes for troubleshooting if you have a problem. For example, it the truck has a problem the truck stores a troubleshooting code in the truck computer. The 1705 can read it to aid in troubleshooting.

The towsafe program does increase mileage a little. My last two tanks just driving around Spring Hill were just over 20mpg. It averages 17-21. For towing it averages 12-14 depending on speed and conditions.

The biggest problem with chips or programs is that your engine will run hotter since the chip regulates fuel so you should have a pyrometer for measuring the exhaust temp. The pyrometer simply tells you when you are pushing the engine too hard. Probably not a bad idea to have even if you don't have a chip.

Oh, the 1705 allows you to re-install the standard Ford program back into the ford chip. Make sure you do this before taking the truck in for service or Ford may flash the chip with an upgrade. Since the 1705 has a VIN lock on it to prevent piracy you will have to go to Superchips for help to get your program back in.

Chips or chip programs will probably void your warranty.

[patodonn]

We started out in '03 with a very similar relative situation...76K miles on the truck. Dodge 2500, 5.9 Cummings. Still using it today with 136K miles on it.

IF you are going to upgrade with a chip, really suggest a pyrometer (EGT guage)to prevent engine damage at extra-high power settings. If you are going to get that, may as well get a transmission temp guage and a "boost" pressure guage as well. Engine/drive train warranty probably will be void if you use a "chip". Check with the dealer.

Air bags worked well for us in the Dodge. Small relative cost, good result.

I did get a 4" exhaust installed this past Dec, and it worked wonders for us in towing up some pretty steep grades in Ca/AZ/NM. Kept the EGTs significantly cooler at really high power settings. If you aren't towing in mountain areas, probably not really needed.

[steves]

Select ALL FORUMS, Then under GENERAL DISCUSSIONS / TOW VEHICLES and TOWING select the yellow box on the right hand side that has an "A" and you will pull in all the archived topics. You can the read all the various question and responses to
Tow Vehicles. There are a lot of opinions but I would follow Stiles advice and tow the 3400 and then decide if you need more HP. I had my 7.3 chipped and it was awesome but did I really need it - probably not. Did I Like it- yes. Did I recover my investment when I sold it - No. Good Luck.

[Steve and Mozell]

I use a Superchips 1705 programmer as well. I tow in the high performance mode (which is not recommended by the manufacturer). I will agree with the others who recommend an EGT gauge. I also had an aftermarket transmission temp gauge and boost gauge installed. These programmers do make things run hotter. I added a Banks 4" exhaust and AFE intake. I have about 70k miles on the truck and most of those miles have been with these items installed. As mentioned, your warranty is most likely void if you install a programmer or chip. I have not seen much of a change in mileage, but I probably push the truck a bit harder now. I really didn't need these modifications, but I sure have enjoyed them. The programmer really changed the personality of the truck, but it probably shortens engine and transmission life as well. I agree with the others who recommend towing stock first, then make changes if you feel you need them. Good luck on your decision.
Steve

[HomeOnTheRoad]

The new Montana has that new front end that does not need a slider for a short bed truck. The old one does.

[Montana Sky]

I still would double check that new front end not needing a sliding hitch. Depending on which brand you go with, the cost difference between a standard 16K and a sliding 16K is less than $200. Sure alot cheaper than replacing the back window on the truck or the front cap on your Montana. I am one of those guys who does not believe in the chips or reprogramable computer things. I know the factories do not recommend them, and suggest against using them as well. My 3/4 ton is stock with the exception of the pyro and boost gauges and the Custom Flow tailgate to make hooking and unhooking easier for me. This truck tows the heck out of my 3400RL. This will be my 3rd year on the road with this truck and coach without any trouble at all. Just my thoughts...

[richfaa]

My observation of the new front cap and the slider hitch.It is my opinion that on level or near level ground you would not need the slider hitch for sure..However..Steve Emmel and I looked that over closely at the Toledo RV show and we were dubious as to how it would work out on uneven ground.I would ask Keystone to hook up their most expensive camper to their most expensive Tv and head out to some local campground were they can hook up under varying conditions and report back to us. If it were me I would get the slider hitch if I had a SB truck...new front cap or not...

[sreigle]

I'm surprised about that. We had an opportunity in Moab to look up close at that nose on a Montana one of our owners has. With the old nose I can turn probably 75 degrees (maybe more) because of the curvature of the nose. It looked to me like the backset part of the new nose would have plenty of clearance even on uneven ground. But I have not hitched up to one with that nose so maybe I'm wrong.

As for the truck, I'd go with Stiles' method and try it first. On the hitch, if using a shortbed, I'd go with one where a slider could be added later if needed, like the Reese hitches.