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10-08-2014, 05:26 AM
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#1
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Bridgewater
Posts: 1,196
M.O.C. #13166
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Electrical issue
For some reason, on our Montana, we don't seem to be getting power to the toggle switches for the landing gear and stabilizers, which are located under the bedroom slide in the box which also houses the individual slide-out valves. I've tried chasing the wiring to the problem, but can't find anything wrong. There is a fuse in-line which also is ok. Both the landing gear and stabilizers work with the remote, so not a motor issue. No blown fuses in main panel. Both switches quit simultaneously. It doesn't matter if I'm plugged into shore power or not. All other DC components work as they should. I have not tested the wiring at the switches to determine if power is getting there. I am suspicious of the switches, but it seems odd they would both stop working at the same time. They're wrapped tightly with electrical tape and, since we're going away for our last trip this weekend, didn't want to go too deep into it right now. I wanted to ask you guys if any of you have run into this and what you found to be the problem. Thanks for any insight.
__________________
2010 Montana 3455SA, Mor/Ryde pin, wet bolts, TST 507, Progressive HW50C, GY G614
2019 Silverado D/A 3500HD LTZ DRW CC
B&W Companion
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10-08-2014, 08:19 AM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Carmichael - CA
Posts: 7,362
M.O.C. #4831
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This is not an uncommon problem. Here is one (of many) post on this problem. Search the Archives (it appears to be working today) for more.
http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/...ad.php?t=50575
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Carl (n Susan)
There is more to life than fuel mileage.
2012 Montana 3700RL Big Sky Package towed by a 2015 Ford F350 6.7L PSD 4WD CC LWB
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10-08-2014, 10:34 AM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Wilsey
Posts: 18,799
M.O.C. #11455
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Very common problem, changing the ground seems to be the answer.
__________________
Dick, Joyce, Diego, Picatso and Gustav
2017 3720 RL, and 2013 HC 343RL
Pullrite Hitch, IS, Disk Brakes, 3rd AC, Winegard Traveler, Bathroom door mod, Dometic 320, couch for desk swap, replaced chairs, sun screens, added awnings, etc.
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10-09-2014, 04:40 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Bridgewater
Posts: 1,196
M.O.C. #13166
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You guys did it again. I jumped the ground over to the frame and bingo. Everything works as it's supposed to. Thanks, Carl for the link to the post that explained it all.
__________________
2010 Montana 3455SA, Mor/Ryde pin, wet bolts, TST 507, Progressive HW50C, GY G614
2019 Silverado D/A 3500HD LTZ DRW CC
B&W Companion
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10-09-2014, 10:57 AM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lake Gaston
Posts: 8,773
M.O.C. #12156
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Proper ground is often the problem with electrical problems. First thing I always check.
__________________
Mike and Lorraine
2002 3655 FL, 2005 3650RK
2010 3665RE, 2015 3910FB
F350 crew cab dually 6.7
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10-22-2014, 11:50 AM
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#6
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: gresham
Posts: 489
M.O.C. #11202
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Well, it finally happened to me too.
Rocker switches will not activate the landing gear, stabilizers, and slides.
Read all of the posts about moving the ground wire and looked at all of the included pics, then went out and looked at the wireless module with screwdriver in hand.
...much to my surprise, mine does not look like any of the pics that I saw. It seems that all of the wiring terminals on my module are potted in place.
So, I was wondering (dangerous territory), could I just use an automotive type splice connector (sets in place with pliers)
to establish a ground circuit to the frame without clipping the appropriate potted wire to test if the ground is indeed the problem., ...or does it really need to be clipped from the potted terminal for it to work?
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10-22-2014, 01:04 PM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Waterford
Posts: 3,693
M.O.C. #7500
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Overlord
Well, it finally happened to me too.
Rocker switches will not activate the landing gear, stabilizers, and slides.
Read all of the posts about moving the ground wire and looked at all of the included pics, then went out and looked at the wireless module with screwdriver in hand.
...much to my surprise, mine does not look like any of the pics that I saw. It seems that all of the wiring terminals on my module are potted in place.
So, I was wondering (dangerous territory), could I just use an automotive type splice connector (sets in place with pliers)
to establish a ground circuit to the frame without clipping the appropriate potted wire to test if the ground is indeed the problem., ...or does it really need to be clipped from the potted terminal for it to work?
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If you're out in the boondocks and need a quick temporary fix, or if you are asking if it's OK to use one of these just to see if the ground is the issue, those are fine as long as you reseal the wire where the blade cuts into the insulation. Otherwise, those are not the best way to go. It's best to check and clean the ground that's there, or if you need to run a new ground wire, solder it. If your switch has a plug on it (not sure what you mean by the term potted), try removing the plug and check for corrosion. At the same time, you can check the ground wire in the plug for continuity. That's a fancy word meaning the ground wire actually has a good connection to ground. You can do this with an ohm meter or a flashlight battery and light bulb. Or you can buy a continuity tester for a few bucks at Harbor Freight.
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10-22-2014, 01:45 PM
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#8
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: gresham
Posts: 489
M.O.C. #11202
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Being potted means that the electrical item is filled with "non-conductive goo" (yeah, that's the technical term ) that sets up like a hard, rubbery, plastic to encase the "guts" (another tech term) and protect it from moisture and vibration. ....also to make it impossible to repair/replace individual components of the circuitry, so that you have to buy the whole shebang and replace the entire unit.
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