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04-10-2015, 02:49 PM
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#1
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Harvey
Posts: 329
M.O.C. #8863
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Check Valve for Water heater
Summerized my 08 3585SA yesterday and all went well. Water heater worked on both electric and propane. Water flowed from all the faucets, hot had good pressure and likewise for cold. Tried it this afternoon and all is good. Drove 75 miles to a state park as the weekend is nice. After setting up, tried the hot water on all the faucets and no pressure. Cold is fine. Checked the bypass in the convience center and it is not on. When I opened the relief valve on the water heater, plenty of hot water and I could hear the water pump pumping water to it. Did some research and sounds like a check valve. How does one get to to that short of pulling out the water heater. My access panel in the living room is at the side of the tank and nothing can be accessed. Just looking for some advice. Thank you. Rick
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04-11-2015, 12:06 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Okeechobee
Posts: 2,150
M.O.C. #11206
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Hi
On ours we have to remove the shelves on back wall in a cabinet on the living room side of the kitchen counter and that allows plenty of access. This is about half dozen screws.
Phil P
__________________
2009 Montana 3665RE
2009 Duramax 3500 DRW quad cab
personal web page https:// www.sallyscoffees.com
If you get a page not available then remove the "s" after HTTP
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04-11-2015, 01:06 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Hixson
Posts: 3,436
M.O.C. #11397
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I have a 2012 3585SA and here is how I gained access to replace the kitchen faucet 2 weeks ago.
Open the small outside storage compartment that is just above the water heater and remove everything. On mine the inside wall of the compartment was nicely and securely paneled on the back of the sink (which is in the corner). After going inside and checking for water lines, electrical wiring, or any other obstructions I went back outside and marked, drilled, and cut with my jigsaw an access hole (I think about 12" x 16"). This hole gave me easy access to change the faucet and access to the back of the water heater. After completing the faucet change I covered the hole with an appropriate sized piece of 1/4" luan plywood and secured it with screws so I can get back in again if needed.
Hope this helps. David
Oops! I just looked at your signature picture again and realized your water heater is not in the same place as mine. Mine is at the rear of the rig and is under the kitchen counter and under a storage compartment that is not as large as the one on your unit. Sorry.
__________________
2018.5 Montana 3791RD
Full Timers 9/1/2010 through 1/16/2020.
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04-11-2015, 01:52 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Englewood
Posts: 3,095
M.O.C. #164
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Are you connected to city water or pumping from the tank?
If you are using city water make sure you have adequate pressure at the end of hose where it enters the hose is connected to the unit
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04-11-2015, 02:45 AM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Pensacola (mail forward service)
Posts: 3,198
M.O.C. #13740
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No hot water pressure is the way a stuck open or failed check valve is noted. John
__________________
2012 F350 6.7 L dually, 2013 3800RE with 6 pt leveling, Sumitomo 17.5" load range h tires, Samsung 18 cu ft residential fridge, 8k Morryde I.S. with disc brakes. Full timing since 2012.
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04-11-2015, 03:05 AM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: K.C.
Posts: 11,731
M.O.C. #5980
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04-11-2015, 05:45 AM
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#7
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Harvey
Posts: 329
M.O.C. #8863
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Thanks Ozz. I am confident that is the problem. My water heater is in the kitchen under a cabinet. Only access to pull the bottom drawer which is on ball bearings. I can see the fitting but I can't get the drawer pulled out. How do you get the drawer out from the ball bearing rails?
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04-11-2015, 06:00 AM
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#8
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Harvey
Posts: 329
M.O.C. #8863
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Figured it out. Found levers on each side of rail. Can get at the valve that way. Will tackle that issue when I get home. Thanks again everyone.
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04-12-2015, 02:43 PM
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#9
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Harvey
Posts: 329
M.O.C. #8863
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Thanks Oz. Check valve was all twisted and was the culprit. Pushed it out of the fitting and back in business again. Will have to buy a new one though. Lonnie B. suggested getting one like at Lowes, more heavy duty. The pics really helped me out big time!!! Thanks again.
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04-12-2015, 02:58 PM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: K.C.
Posts: 11,731
M.O.C. #5980
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You bet, glad you got it repaired, Lonnie is a smart man
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04-12-2015, 03:20 PM
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#11
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Farmington
Posts: 71
M.O.C. #17288
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If you don't winterize every year, just leave it the way it is. Won't hurt anything.
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04-12-2015, 03:38 PM
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#12
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Harvey
Posts: 329
M.O.C. #8863
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Sadly I have to winterize in the fall as I am in North Dakota. The frozen tundra of the world . 
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10-16-2022, 04:16 PM
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#13
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Montana Fan
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Apple Valley
Posts: 134
M.O.C. #19913
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Where can you buy a check valve for a 2017 Suburban water heater? I see posts but I can't find one with where to buy one or a part number thanks
John
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10-17-2022, 07:12 AM
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#14
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New Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: East Waterford
Posts: 6
M.O.C. #24118
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Check valve source
Hi John,
After I learned how to access the back of the water heater, I removed the existing check valve (big wrench required) and took it to a local RV dealer. Apparently some have a male and some have a female fitting needed to attach to the water heater. They didn’t have a new stock valve that worked for me but they rummaged around and found one that had been taken from another RV that they had replaced the water heater on. So far, so good. Not a great answer, but that is my story.
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10-17-2022, 07:14 AM
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#15
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Montana Fan
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Apple Valley
Posts: 134
M.O.C. #19913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Treesehome
Hi John,
After I learned how to access the back of the water heater, I removed the existing check valve (big wrench required) and took it to a local RV dealer. Apparently some have a male and some have a female fitting needed to attach to the water heater. They didn’t have a new stock valve that worked for me but they rummaged around and found one that had been taken from another RV that they had replaced the water heater on. So far, so good. Not a great answer, but that is my story.
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Thanks that's great help.
John
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10-17-2022, 02:12 PM
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#16
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 4,690
M.O.C. #12947
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__________________
Bob & Becky
2012 3402RL
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC 4WD
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10-17-2022, 03:00 PM
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#17
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Folsom, California
Posts: 552
M.O.C. #21903
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My check valve went out (no hot water anywhere. Took off valve, removed guts and re-installed. Everything worked again, and since I don't have to winterize where I live, was not going to replace.
Then I noticed water dripping from the pressure relief valve. Without the check valve, the "pocket of air" at the top of the tank can't form.
Replaced check valve, no more dripping.
__________________
'05 F250 6.0 Bullet Proofed - Sold
'17 F350 6.7 Lariet
'02 Montana 3280RL Upgraded a bunch.
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