Am I on borrowed time? - Montana Owners Club

abonzer · 07-08-2010, 06:18 AM

A month ago got the rig ready for vacation and when I put the slides in all I heard was the pump running but no movement. Looked under the trailer and fluid was pouring out from under the bottom.
Pulled off some of the underbelly (what a mess) and located the leaky line that had worn through from abrasion with the frame.
Searched the forum here and others and learned that you cannot splice these lines due to pressure. Well heck, the camper is loaded and ready to go, what's to lose with trying a barbed splice with hose clamps.
Filled the tank back up with fluid and gave it a try. Everything worked just fine. Fast forward to today and the splice seems to be holding just fine.
Am I kidding myself with this splice or should I replace all the lines?
Thanks in advance for all your advice

boylanag · 07-08-2010, 06:40 AM

abonzer, I don't have the answer to your question but just wanted to tell you that I really like your adage in your signature about living up to my dog's opinion of me. - Jim

stiles watson · 07-08-2010, 07:01 AM

If it were my rig, I would change the line as soon as is practical. Good job on the temp fix.

dieselguy · 07-08-2010, 07:18 AM

You're assumption is correct ... you're borrowing time for failure again. A barbed fitting is not designed to hold pressure anywhere close to what the pump puts out especially when it spikes as the slides fully open or close. Implement dealers and truck overhaul businesses can make you a new hose in just a few minutes. Most RV dealers don't have the equipment to crimp the ends on the hose, so they charge you about double as they have to go get it done themselves. JIMHO

racerjoe · 07-08-2010, 09:04 AM

borrowed time? yes. Make sure you do not hold the button any longer than needed. Dieselguy is correct, it WILL blow the repair apart.

Waynem · 07-08-2010, 01:42 PM

It will blow. Just a matter of "borrowed" time.

Ace Hardware used to make hydraulic hoses. Well, in my locale they did.

Exnavydiver · 07-08-2010, 01:52 PM

abonzer, when I was under my 08 Big Sky about 4 months after we got it and I had the belly pan off (for another reason) I noticed that all the hydraulic hoses and all the 12 volt wiring were all just sitting on the bottom I-beam lip and on the self tapping screws that hold the belly pan on. I separated the wiring (main 12 volt to converter)as well as the lighter gauge wires and the hydraulic lines. Each of the three bundles I suspended from the upper frame members with heavy tie wraps at three different levels. hydraulics high, light 12 volt in the middle and heavy 12 volt lowest. This way nothing is abrading on the frame and if there should be a short in the heavy wiring it won't melt EVERYTHING into one huge mess. This has happened in the past and I had read about it on this forum. Just another case of something on here helping to avoid a problem... Dave P.S. Definitely get that hose replaced!!!

abonzer · 07-09-2010, 07:27 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Exnavydiver

abonzer, when I was under my 08 Big Sky about 4 months after we got it and I had the belly pan off (for another reason) I noticed that all the hydraulic hoses and all the 12 volt wiring were all just sitting on the bottom I-beam lip and on the self tapping screws that hold the belly pan on. I separated the wiring (main 12 volt to converter)as well as the lighter gauge wires and the hydraulic lines. Each of the three bundles I suspended from the upper frame members with heavy tie wraps at three different levels. hydraulics high, light 12 volt in the middle and heavy 12 volt lowest. This way nothing is abrading on the frame and if there should be a short in the heavy wiring it won't melt EVERYTHING into one huge mess. This has happened in the past and I had read about it on this forum. Just another case of something on here helping to avoid a problem... Dave P.S. Definitely get that hose replaced!!!

Thanks for the input. Upon closer inspection I can see where the section that wore thru, it was a screw from the underbelly pan. I could not figure all the groves on the line, but now it is clear.
Since this is a big job do you think I should replace all the hoses? Has anyone done this that can pass on any tips?

On another note, I went by the NAPA store where they make hoses. They can do the job for about $200, all hoses. However, the guy told me of an alternative. I will try and describe the best I can. This is a square cup, maybe 2" X 2" and 4" long. You add two more hose clamps 1" down from the other hose clamps then place this cup around the fix, cap the ends and then fill it with an epoxy material. The epoxy surrounds the break and hose clamps. Once cured, the epoxy prevents the hose from coming apart at the splice. The guy told me he has never seen one leak as long as the area is not subject to constant flexing such as a tractor might see. The cost $30.00. He sounded pretty convincing. I looked on the internet and could not see any posts, but it sounds like it might work.
Thanks again for all your help. This forum is a great resource.

blarkman · 07-09-2010, 08:44 AM

Years ago I used to sell the hose and barbed fitting. I don't know why the same would not hold true today.

racerjoe · 07-09-2010, 08:47 AM

I think the question to you is,how many times do YOU want to pull the belly pan down? I have never heard of this type of repair so your guess is as good as mine.I don't want to be setting up at a campground just to watch oil come from underneath.

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