slideouts stop and go

[ctrocks]

When I use slide out in or out the hydraulic motor stops.I wait a few seconds and it will run a short time----5 to 10 times to get them all to seat. Is there an electric heater that I am tripping?
Any other suggestions appreciated.
2005 34 ft 5th wheel Montana
Problem developed on a 5 wk trip to Florida this year
Thanks All

[Carl n Susan]

There is an undersized self-resetting circuit breaker on the slides. The start/stop is due to it overheating, and interrupting the circuit until it cools down, and then continuing on. There has been numerous discussions on this "feature". Here is a link to a popular solution:
http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36985&SearchTerms=slide,circuit,b reaker

[jliveit]

Had the same thing happen this winter on the way south, cleaned the battery terminals and worked fine ever since. Even plugged into shore power they would only move a couple of inches at a time and the circuit breaker would kick out and then reset in a couple of secounds, cleaned battery conections and everything was fine.

[ctrocks]

This site is AWESOME


Special thanks to Carl n Susan for topic URL that was 100% to the point of my problem as well as the contributors to that discussion

jliveit----------1st thing tomorrow I will clean those battery terminals. I'll let you know if that works for me.

I thought I had posted this before but lost "it".If this is a repeat Thanks again for your replies.

[Art-n-Marge]

If the autoresetting breakers are not the problem there are several others:

1. low fluid in the reservoir. The book calls for Type A (not Type F) which can be hard to find but suitable alternatives are Dextron/Mercon types. Check your book to be sure. With the Slides RETRACTED, the level should be 1/2" from the top of the reservoir. I put a permanent mark on the spot so I can check easily. If you have to fill often, you might have a leak.
2. Low Battery. This can be caused by batteries not charged fully, loose cables, corroded connectors, or weak batteries. If you need the slides in quicker that what you have with the batteries connect to the TV to add its battery power or connect to shore power and the 12V onboard converter can help.
3. The RV must be level and the stabilizers IN PLACE, otherwise too much extra movement as the slides extend or retract may cause extra stress and the circuit breakers to reset.
4. There might be another thing to check but I forget, so I'll mention upgrading the breakers. If you need the information, let me know and I can email the PDFs to you.

I've had all of these problems over time and after finally installing the dual breaker fix, and now I monitor all the other stuff, I have not had a problem at all! You can imagine, my thoughts were "Now WHAT?!", but NO MORE! Then I joined the MOC and found these solutions everybody already knew about.

I hope this works for you, too.

[Ozz]

Here is what I just did:

[c214dick]

Ozz, where did you get that breaker from?

Thanks

[Ozz]

E-Bay, BUT any auto supply house should have one

[c214dick]

Thanks, what amperage?

[Parts Ed]

Looks like it has 80A written on the "red lever"

[moutard2]

Ozz ... is that an 80 amp breaker you installed?

[Ozz]

quote:Originally posted by c214dick

Thanks, what amperage?

Sorry, 80 amps. I 'amped' it with my meter, it got to 70 something on the last slide, the super-slide.

[moutard2]

And ... I notice that eBay has lots of the identical breaker for sale at $7.99 including shipping from HK.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/80-AM...item3a637f8993

[Ozz]

Thanks, I just bought another..

[7.3Ford]

I did same thing Jim (Ozz) did, but used 100Amp. Watch where breakers are shipping from, most are ship from China, and take 2-3 weeks.

I use the following eBay site, ships a lot faster:
http://electronics.shop.ebay.com/Cir...-/32813/i.html

Still made in China, but ships from USA.

[Carl n Susan]

Both of those breakers appear to be *MANUAL* reset types. Is there a self-resetting version available? I don't expect it to trip, but if it does, I don't relish getting into the compartment to reset it.

[Ozz]

With a 80 amp breaker, you want a manual reset. if it trips the 80, you have other issues. I want to protect the motor from burn out: (possible motor fire/sitting right next to a container of oil.... not good.)
I tested mine, it never exceeded 70 amps.
To guess at the amp draw under load is not good. We have circuit protection for valid reasons.

[7.3Ford]

quote:Originally posted by Carl n Susan

Both of those breakers appear to be *MANUAL* reset types. Is there a self-resetting version available? I don't expect it to trip, but if it does, I don't relish getting into the compartment to reset it.

Carl,

I had nightmare of a time, three trips to CW for repair (last time they replaced the control module and remote). When I got home the front feet went up half way and quit. Since I put the 100Amp circuit breaker in, I have had zero problems. If it trips, I want to investigate why.

[Ozz]

John, I have that breaker on my slides.

[7.3Ford]

quote:Originally posted by Ozz

John, I have that breaker on my slides.

Jim,

On the 2010, it feeds the battery disconnect, the remote controller thru a second auto-reset breaker, and the slide motors relay. My problem started with front and rear feet would not work from outside switches (but worked via remote), then the slides keep stopping, and finally nothing worked with the remote.

Btw, if your remote stops working remove power to it for 30 seconds, and it will work again.

I would be interest to know what they put in the 2011.