water heater tidbits for you - Montana Owners Club

G McCall · 12-13-2006, 05:55 AM

Here are a few recent experiences with my water heater that may be informational.

A few weeks ago while preping to close up my trailer at my deer lease I made an error that could have caused a big problem.
After all was nearly closed up I opened all drain valves and drained my hot water heater and removed the rod, too make sure all water was drained.
Then I had to go back into the trailer for something and turned the electric back on. Problem is I forgot that I had left the electric on to the water heater. That tripped an inline surge breaker that I was using. I thought for sure I ruined the hot water heating element, but the fact is it still works fine. I read on this forum that there may be a protective switch on our water heaters.

Also, I found out I do not have to remove the rod to drain the hot water heater, I just need to open the drain valves and open the pressure relief valve on the water heater. Learn something every day.

illapah · 12-13-2006, 06:35 AM

I didn't know that the water heater would drain without pulling the anode rod. Gotta check that one next time I am de winterized.

G McCall · 12-13-2006, 07:38 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by illapah

I didn't know that the water heater would drain without pulling the anode rod. Gotta check that one next time I am de winterized.

Mine did.
I had pulled the drain plugs and the water had quit draining and was down to a drip. I then fliped the relief valve on the water heater as someone suggested to me, and water came pouring out of the drain again. I even had the faucets open already. After that water stopped draining, I went head and took the anode rod out just to see if the water tank was drained completely. Nothing came out. The tank had drained fully with only opening the relief valve.

LonnieB · 12-13-2006, 08:54 AM

G McCall, that is a good thing to know, and may come in handy. I would however, pull the anode rod anyway just to check it and rinse the water heater tank.

Cat320 · 12-13-2006, 10:22 AM

I agree with Lonnie...lots of crud comes out when you pull out that rod.

hazmic · 12-13-2006, 11:24 AM

Some where I read was NOT to open the pressure relief valve. By doing so you could ruin the seat of the valve and weaken the spring on the valve. I use to do that until I read about not to open the valve. I am old fashion and remove the anode rod and open sink valve and it drains. After you are done be sure to put the plug back in and close all valves so things that fly or crawl can find a new home.

G McCall · 12-13-2006, 11:39 AM

great.......so maybe my relief valve idea may be bad ?

It was so easy too......

any one know about the relief valve being damaged ?

JH Sechelt · 12-13-2006, 12:40 PM

Hi G McCall,

At the top of the HW tank there is a outlet pipe feeding the hot water to the trailer. In this pipe, where it hooks up to the tank there is a one way check valve, only allowing water to go one way (out). This is why no water drains from the tank when you only open the faucets.
Nothing wrong with draining the tank the way you do, but a person should check the anode rod at least once a year. I've never heard of damaging a PR valve by opening & closing it.

J&D

illapah · 12-13-2006, 12:40 PM

From the Montana Manual:
It says to open the relief valve to (for example) replentish the air in the tank. With no water input open the relief valve until water quits running.

So, I would suspect no damage operating it.

LonnieB · 12-13-2006, 01:08 PM

I agree with J&D and Illapah, ocasionally opening the relief valve will do it no harm. If anything, it will keep the valve from becoming stuck ( corroded ) to the seat.

hazmic · 12-13-2006, 01:56 PM

I think what they were referring to was releasing the PR valve with pressure in the tank and junk getting into the seat and it leaking then. Look at the web site for Suburban Manufacturing who probably made your water heater. Go to question and answers and it tells you how to drain your water heater. Good information there. It dose not mention to open the PR valve to drain the heater but dose tell you how to get a air pocket in the water system. If the heater is clear full with water the PR valve could leak. Hey we all make a boo boo once a while.

EagleRunner · 12-13-2006, 07:36 PM

Another reason I like to pull the anode rod, not only does it allow me to inspecing it, it also allows me to get the tank good and clean. I use a hose attachment that allows me to thoroughly flush the tank. You will be surprised how much crud builds up in those tanks over a three to four month period. In some states this build up is even worse than here in the Northwest.

G McCall · 12-14-2006, 01:09 AM

Great info here

Thanks,

VanMan · 12-14-2006, 01:22 AM

Here's some more great info - from experience!! ALWAYS remember to relieve that pressure! I forgot once and removed the anode rod while standing almost square in front of it. About the time you reach that last thread the rod shoots out like a bullet - several feet! If I'd been a couple of feet over, I'd have been in a world of hurt (if you know what I mean). You get drenched with that cruddy water - either really HOT or really COLD(depending on whether you just turned it off or it's been off for days). It's really shocking because it's totally unexpected and is quite a surprise!! Hopefully I'll only do that ONCE !!

LonnieB · 12-14-2006, 01:56 AM

Been there, done that, got the COLD WET t-shirt, just a couple of weeks ago Van Man. I'll bet I never do it again.

H. John Kohl · 12-14-2006, 02:29 AM

The label on the hot water heater door says "annual operation of T&P relief valve"
Warning: following installation, the valve lever must be operated at least once a year by the water heater owner to ensure that waterways are clear. Certain naturally occurring mineral deposits may adhere to the valve, blocking waterways, rendering it inoperative. When the lever is operated, hot water will discharge if the waterways are clear. ETC.

I read where there were a couple of line that did not get pink stuff when the winter antifreeze was pumped in. I wondered how those lines got drained. This thread may have answered that question.

Cheers,

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