Waste tank valve/cable hard to operate

[andrew selkregg]

I have a 2015 3610RL that I use about 130 days/year for recreational travel. One of the gray tank drain valve handles is very hard to operate, and I'm afraid the handle will end up in my hand one of these days and leave me stranded. I have had some success greasing the rod but it doesn't last long nor make a huge difference. Has anyone had a similar problem and found a solution?

Thanks,
Andy

[PeteandJoan]

I have same unit and replaced both blade valves and cable assemblies. My extended warranty paid for all but my $100 deductible. Had it done in Jan. this year. Works sooo much better now. better than new now. I doubt greasing does any good at all. Very little if any good.

[Ronthecanadian]

Yes, I had the same issue with our 2015 3610 rl unit. The bathroom grey tank valve was "stiff " to operate last year. Tried greasing, no result. This year on day 3 of retirement I went to dump tank and stood there with the handle in my hand. The crimp connection onto the wire let go.
Purchased a complete valve/extended pull assembly, and spent an morning testing the level of my patience and not breaking the 3" drain line. The biggest challenge was of coarse the gaskets and the lip on the pipe flanges. $120.00cdn to replace. No surprise that the cables for both grey/black tanks with remote pulls were not installed as per the instructions on the replacement unit.
Expect the handle crimp to let go, unless you can get under unit and rearrange cables to make the pull easier to operate.
The new one I installed "works like a charm".

[DQDick]

There are products you can put in the tank that are supposed to lube the valve and sometimes this will work. New aftermarket valves will solve the problem for sure.

[Theunz]

I had the same problem as well on my 2015 3100rl. The factory uses stranded cable and the inch or so nearest the handle had expanded outward and would not let the valve close all the way. I bought a valterra replacement cable on Amazon for about $30. Valterra uses a solid wire cable and requires a little adjustment of the inner cable to match the pull length of the factory cable. Although I had already removed the gate valve before I found the cable problem, I think you could replace the cable without removing the valve.

[scottz]

I have a related concern with my black tank cable operated valve. This is a new unit, tanks have been dumped maybe 5 times. Last time I pulled the black tank handle, it did not want to move. I pulled a little harder and got it out. The part that comes out (attached to handle) had corrosion on it; looked rusted. I gave it a good spray of WD40 and worked the handle a few times to get some oil on the cable. It seemed ok at the time and the one time I have dumped it since then.

What causes this and what should I do to prevent future problem? I'm wondering if water dripped off the city water connection and ran down this handle/cable to mess it up.

When I used to race dirt bikes I had a fitting that would clamp around a cable and allow spray oil to be injected on/down the cable. I wonder if something like that would work on dump valve cables?

[Carl n Susan]

Changing the black and shower valves isn't too difficult. There have been many postings on the topic which a "Search" will uncover. Here is something I posted previously on the process with a link to further detail. Allow two hours for the entire job once you have the Valtera replacement valve.


On your Montana the black tank and the shower tank are both in the dropped frame section. Both valves are at the back of the tanks near the end of the dropped frame. Access to the valves is actually easy without cutting the Coroplast.

Remove the 6-8 self tapping screws which hold the Coroplast to the frame. You may have to loosen a bracket holding the propane pipe but that is a snap too. Roll the Coroplast forward to expose the valves.

I suspect you have a pinched seal in the valve. Had the cable come loose, you would be able to pull it out a loooonnnggg way without much resistance. And it would go back in a similar manner.

Here is a posting from earlier this year which does a good job of explaining how to change out a valve.

http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/...ad.php?t=66825

[RKassl]

Had exactly the same problem with our 2015. Warranty trips x3, no luck. Smart tech there re-engineered both black and gray with solid rods bypassing the damn cables. Just great now.

[richfaa]

Same issue here due to "cost effective" equipment had all my cables replaced as our holding tanks failed and problem solved.

[barryn]

Originally Posted by carl n susan

Changing the black and shower valves isn't too difficult. There have been many postings on the topic which a "Search" will uncover. Here is something I posted previously on the process with a link to further detail. Allow two hours for the entire job once you have the Valtera replacement valve.


On your Montana the black tank and the shower tank are both in the dropped frame section. Both valves are at the back of the tanks near the end of the dropped frame. Access to the valves is actually easy without cutting the Coroplast.

Remove the 6-8 self tapping screws which hold the Coroplast to the frame. You may have to loosen a bracket holding the propane pipe but that is a snap too. Roll the Coroplast forward to expose the valves.

I suspect you have a pinched seal in the valve. Had the cable come loose, you would be able to pull it out a loooonnnggg way without much resistance. And it would go back in a similar manner.

Here is a posting from earlier this year which does a good job of explaining how to change out a valve.

http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/...ad.php?t=66825

Going with 12volt EZ Valterra valves ALL of THEM. This is the FIX. The problem is , more than likely you will have to replumb. Warranty replaced my valves and the repair person said the plumbing was in a bind. He said even with the upgraded push pull 6' cables this problem WILL come back. I'm going to fix this myself, just like I had to fix the sewer smell coming up the show drain. P-trap. BOOM . The rubber bladder trap should be outlawed but all Rv's have them now. P-trap is the only way to go.

[1retired06]

Originally Posted by RKassl

Had exactly the same problem with our 2015. Warranty trips x3, no luck. Smart tech there re-engineered both black and gray with solid rods bypassing the damn cables. Just great now.

I did the same thing, direct threaded rod pulls. Minor modification of plumbing lines required, no big deal.