rear jacks

[Montana_1362]

I'm not sure what the load maximum is on the rear jacks, but on my 2004 29rl I bent the support arms on the left jack, and I don't know how or when it happened. So I welded a solid rod on each support and I think I'll do it on the right jack as well.

[Glenn and Lorraine]

First of all if you are referring to the 2955RL they are not jacks. They are merely satilizers and are not meant to lift the rear of the trailer but to merely stabilize it. You only tighten these stabilizers until they are snug.

[old turbo]

For some reason we have incorporated two words, stabilizer and jack as being the same thing they are not. I hear people call them stablizer jacks. My Mountaineer has the crank down round landing pad style that was even used on my old tt. This style does little to stabilize a large 5vr. I always back up to plastic wheel chocks, put on the emergecy brake and put the front chocks in. After I get the 5ver set up, I put the stablzers down to ground level and then put in my rock stoppers between the tires.

[prariepoodle]

Ours bent and we replaced them with scissor jacks that will take up to 5000 lbs. at least that is what camping world says.

[tollmann]

Do not try to level the unit with the rear stabilizer jacks. You can easily cause frame damage to the RV.

[sreigle]

We also added scissor jacks but use them for stabilizing in addition to the OEM rear stabilizers.

Old turbo, you mentioned the round pads don't do much for stabilizing. I'm always interested in better stabilization... any idea what type is best? I'd have to look but I think the pads are replaceable.

Thanks.

[Native Tex]

quote:Originally posted by sreigle

We also added scissor jacks but use them for stabilizing in addition to the OEM rear stabilizers.

Old turbo, you mentioned the round pads don't do much for stabilizing. I'm always interested in better stabilization... any idea what type is best? I'd have to look but I think the pads are replaceable.

Thanks.

Steve we just love your charactures above your signature. Where do you find all these cute little things?

[Bob & Lee]

My rear stablizer's bent when I forgot and started to hook up and raised the front (wont do that again its cald learning) but I straighten the arms an that made them weak and they bent again easy So I put a peice of chain hooking the two arms together on both sides and they have been Ok.

[sreigle]

Native Tex, whenever I find something like that that I like I "rightclick/save picture as". The one you refer to is one I saved long ago and just ran across again recently. It's a small filesize so I figured it would be ok in the signature.

Bob & Lee, I hear you on that one. I haven't bent ours but came very close a couple of times. Good solution, by the way.

[old turbo]

I think the crank dowm system that extends straight down from the frame are better than the ones that crank and come down at an angle. The metal on these are really thin dont know why they even waste the time and money to put this style on a large 5vr. This is the same system that is mounted on the low end model light weight travel trailers. I have what I call the cheap model on my Mountaineer,but I supplement them with rock stoppers which mount between the tires then crank out and put pressue on both tires to stop the rocking of the trailer when you are walking in your rig. I made mine out of some old scissor jacks out of some foreigh car wrecks at a local junkyard, did some fabricating to make parts to fit the curve of the tires,did some welding and they work great. You can buy these things at local large rv centers or order them from camper world or other rv parts catalogs. The ones in rv stores come with slots to put padlocks on them so no one can steel them. Just remember if you put them between the wheel you have to take them out before you try to leave your site, lots of luck hope I have been a help

[Treecounter]

I can't remember if we contributed to this before. So this is how we stabilized our Montana. We had two one inch steel square tubing fit with an eight inch square plate bolted to it so it would flex. The other end was notched so it would catch the frame. Welded a chain link on the pad, used a ratcheting strap to pull them tight. Works on the same principle as the "A" frame stabilizer. They really stop the tail wiggle. I think they were about three feet long.

[Montana_2785]

quote:Originally posted by Bob & Lee

My rear stablizer's bent when I forgot and started to hook up and raised the front (wont do that again its cald learning) but I straighten the arms an that made them weak and they bent again easy So I put a peice of chain hooking the two arms together on both sides and they have been Ok.

My stabilizers just bent last night. I was siting in the rear when I heard a funny noise that I also felt. A quick investiagation with a flash light showed that one arm on both jacks bent. Must not know my own strength or something

I'll be performing this repair....

Thanks

Eric

[sreigle]

Eric, would you mind telling whether you were using the stabilizers just for stabilizing or for leveling? In other words, after lowering the stabilizers (rear) to where they just snugged the ground, how much more did you crank them down? Half turn, one turn, three turns, etc.? If you remember. I'm trying to figure out if I need to watch for this or maybe figure out how to avoid the problem. Thanks.

[Montana_2785]

quote:Originally posted by sreigle

Eric, would you mind telling whether you were using the stabilizers just for stabilizing or for leveling? [...]

Steve, I was only intending to stabilize. However, our old TT (with the same type of stabilizers) had a real bad sag in the back and it would bind the back door. So I did provide a little "lift" for it. I suspect that I had learned to crank the rear stabilizers tighter than I need to.

I can't really say how far I had cranked it down past ground contact. I generally cranked by "feel" and not by counting revolutions of the handle.

Eric