Suburban Water Heater electric

[Golferdave]

Hi All:

Did a stupid thing. Turned on my water hearer electric while tank was empty. Looks like the 120V AC t-stat Hi-Limit switch burned out.
That is that little wire fried apart. Question: To repair it do I just replace this part or is the electric element ruined also. And how do I test for the electric element.
Thanks for any input.

[BB_TX]

You can test the heating element with an ohm meter. If it is burned out it will show infinite ohms, meaning open circuit. If it is still good it will show a few ohms. Not sure how much but it should probably in the range of 10 ohms or so. But it might be a good idea to go ahead and replace it.

[DQDick]

They aren't that expensive, if it were me I would replace the element also.

[Carole]

DH did the same thing and had to replace the element. Lesson learned.

[rohrmann]

And while you are at it, replace the magnesium anode too. You might also get the nozzle that you put on a hose and stick inside the water heater to rinse out all the crud. OZZ has all that stuff in his catalog or you should be able to find it at most RV dealers or service places. You will also need the special 1 1/2" socket wrench to get the element out, a 1 1/16" socket to remove the anode, and a little teflon tape for the threads on the anode, and maybe a little anti-seize grease for the threads on the element. It's not hard to do, and the anode should be checked at least yearly, so you have protection for the tank.

[1retired06]

If a gambling man, I would bet the element is fried.

[Golferdave]

Hi Guys:
Thank you for input. I will replace both parts. I have already replaced the sacrificial anode and cleaned the interior of the tank. I have been running on propane to heat the tank so I will just cool the tank, drain it, replace the parts and refill.
Hope you all have a great winter. See you in Quartzite, AZ, in January, God willin' and the crick don't rise.