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11-06-2011, 12:02 PM
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#1
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Grain valley
Posts: 356
M.O.C. #5098
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Black tank and Gray tank Handles hard to pull
The T-handles for black and gray tank located in the utility center are very hard to pull open and close. Anybody had this problem and if so how did you fix the problem? I think oiling them would help but don't want to take the underbelly material off to get to them. I tried some oil at the T-handles but didn't get any relief.
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11-06-2011, 12:48 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Omaha
Posts: 6,750
M.O.C. #7560
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Bruce-- got to take it South to warmer weather to get it to work easier!
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11-06-2011, 01:08 PM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: K.C.
Posts: 11,731
M.O.C. #5980
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Just a thought to try, open and close it about 20-30 times, might work it loose, about all you can do from the outside.
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11-06-2011, 02:24 PM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Arroyo Grande
Posts: 504
M.O.C. #6460
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Bruce, If they have been hard to open since you have owned the unit, the next time that you open the valves, look closely at the exposed aluminum rods. Check for scarring on the rods. They may not be aligned. You may need to remove them, drill new holes, or larger holes.
My valves were easy to open, but after having the grey tank replaced,both were hard to open. They were not properly aligned. Bill
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11-06-2011, 02:59 PM
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#5
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Dundas
Posts: 406
M.O.C. #10690
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Those push/pull handles connect to long sheathed cable behind the panel that bend in an arch toward the holding tanks. Similar to break cables on a bicycle but much heavier. My understanding is that there is a lube inside to help the cable slide but as Rondo mentioned, they would work better in warmer conditions. The lube will firm up as it gets colder outside and trying to slide a heavy cable around the bend becomes more difficult.
Dave
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11-07-2011, 01:49 AM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cedar Rapids
Posts: 4,876
M.O.C. #1944
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Bruce Lenhardt
The T-handles for black and gray tank located in the utility center are very hard to pull open and close. Anybody had this problem and if so how did you fix the problem? I think oiling them would help but don't want to take the underbelly material off to get to them. I tried some oil at the T-handles but didn't get any relief.
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Part of the problem occurs with build-up inside the septic tanks at the valve. I use a valve lubricant put out by Thetford in all three septic tanks occasionally. This has eased up the valves such that they operate smoothly and easily. I learned about this several years ago when talking to one of the techs at my dealer's place of business.
Orv
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11-07-2011, 03:03 AM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Leona
Posts: 6,382
M.O.C. #2059
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I am thinking that since you probably don't use it often, that small amounts of corrosion collect on the aluminum handle shaft. Working the handles as Ozz suggested is about it unless you want to get into the belly. If the valves themselves are sticky, then that lube suggested by Orv might work. Mechanic that you are, you know to go from simple and cheap to hard and not so cheap to solve the problem.
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11-07-2011, 03:40 AM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Sebring
Posts: 3,659
M.O.C. #9969
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Years ago when I messed around with cars and drag racing, I seem to remember something that could be attached onto a cable (for cars it was the parking brake cable) to let you force a spray lube into the cable from an open end. Don't have any idea if such a thing really existed or if it might still be avail. An old time auto mechanic might remember better than I. Just a thought
__________________
Michelle & Ann
2018 Chevy 3500HD High Country DRW 4X4 Crew Cab w/Duramax/Allison, Formally 2010 Montana 2955RL, Now Loaded 2016 SOB, Mor/ryde IS, Disc Brakes & Pin Box, Comfort Ride Hitch, Sailun 17.5 Tires.
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11-07-2011, 04:12 AM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Navarre
Posts: 1,527
M.O.C. #9765
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WD on the exposed shaft loosened mine up a bit.
Mike
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11-07-2011, 04:24 AM
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#10
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Adirondack
Posts: 367
M.O.C. #10754
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Mine are very hard to pull out also, but once they start to move (Break loose?) they are fine. If I continue to move them in and out they are fine. I'm going to try the Thetford valve lubricant suggested by Orv.
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11-07-2011, 07:35 AM
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#11
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cedar Rapids
Posts: 4,876
M.O.C. #1944
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Lee F.
Mine are very hard to pull out also, but once they start to move (Break loose?) they are fine. If I continue to move them in and out they are fine. I'm going to try the Thetford valve lubricant suggested by Orv.
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I don't know how that stuff works but it does. For some reason or other when you dump and then recharge the septic tank, putting the valve lubricant in also, the lubricant finds its way to the valve. Good stuff! I don't put it in according to directions once I've gotten the valve working free. I now just occasionally put in 1/4 cup.
Orv
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11-07-2011, 03:07 PM
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#12
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Eastern
Posts: 1,155
M.O.C. #7270
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Mine has the shaft that goes in though the frame and when they got hard to open I sprayed w-40 in the hole on the shaft while opening and closing the valve about half doz times works great Now. I don't have any with cables. JMHO
Bobby
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11-09-2011, 02:57 PM
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#13
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Grain valley
Posts: 356
M.O.C. #5098
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Thanks for your replys. I have tried some WD40 but it didn't help much. They are hard to pull out all the way and also hard to push in. I will look into some of the valve lube. May have to take the cables loose so I can pour some oil into them. The outside temp does not seem to be a factor. They are difficult in warm temps also.
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11-10-2011, 05:46 PM
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#14
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Dundas
Posts: 406
M.O.C. #10690
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Bruce Lenhardt
Thanks for your replys. I have tried some WD40 but it didn't help much. They are hard to pull out all the way and also hard to push in. I will look into some of the valve lube. May have to take the cables loose so I can pour some oil into them. The outside temp does not seem to be a factor. They are difficult in warm temps also.
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Bruce. Thanks for the followup. We've only had our Montana for a year and I had accepted the cable as being the problem more so in colder temperatures. Based on what you're saying, I'll try the valve lubricant as well. Thanks again to Orv.
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09-28-2021, 11:31 AM
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#15
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New Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Dallesport
Posts: 1
M.O.C. #29765
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Help - Black Tank valve question
Hi,
I'm new to this forum, with a lot of RV experience. But never had a problem with my tank valves. Is there a way to manually open the black tank valve once the underbody cover is dropped. The black valve has always been hard to pull open, but now it will not open the tank to flush the black water. I need to get it emptied to service it.
Help! We live in our RV and it's just impossible to take it to the dealer to service it.
__________________
SHANER
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09-28-2021, 11:55 AM
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#16
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Site Team
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Colorado Rockies
Posts: 1,921
M.O.C. #19755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Lenhardt
The T-handles for black and gray tank located in the utility center are very hard to pull open and close. Anybody had this problem and if so how did you fix the problem? I think oiling them would help but don't want to take the underbelly material off to get to them. I tried some oil at the T-handles but didn't get any relief.
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First and easiest fix is to pull them out and apply a little lube (I use white grease) to the shaft you exposed. These things get water dripped on them and tend to bind up. If that does not help, you can go in further.
I eventually replaced mine with Valterra valves, but, honestly, the new ones feel about the same as OEM. Some say they got stranded cables from the factory and that is the problem, but my factory cables were solid just like the Valterra replacements.
__________________
Scott & Alta
2017 Montana 3160RL, Legacy, Onan 5.5Kw, Solar
2022 F-450 Lariat Ultimate
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09-28-2021, 06:55 PM
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#17
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Livermore
Posts: 5,146
M.O.C. #1920
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Shaker, welcome to the forum. You latched onto a ten year old post. If you drop the coroplast (plastic covering) you can get to the valves. First, you could try getting some WD40 into the sheath. If that doesn’t work, you may be able to work the blade (valve is like a guillotine) loose after removing the cable end from the valve. The valves that come on it are a braided cable and prone to seizing. Many of us have replaced with Valterra solid wire cables. In fact, two of us had our dealer replace prior to taking delivery. Best of luck.
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Ron and Terrie Ames - MOC #1920/KF0NTA
2021Montana 3230CK Super Solar Legacy Package
2021 Ram 3500 Laramie Longhorn, BIM Charging
4x4, SRW, LB, Crew Cab, Pullrite 3900 Hitch
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09-28-2021, 08:16 PM
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#18
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Burns
Posts: 129
M.O.C. #28210
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My problem was when manufactured the bend in the cable was too sharp. Dropped the black plastic that covers the bottom and rerouted the cable. Works very well now.
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09-29-2021, 05:03 AM
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#19
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 2,140
M.O.C. #25165
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Instead of WD-40, I used a product called SeaFoam Deep Creep. It is a penetrant, not just water displacer like WD. Given a little time and patience, you can spray it in the handle end and slowly work it in and out to get the penetrant through the sheath of the cable.
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Robert & Diana McNeal
2019 Montana Legacy 3791RD 20th Anniversary Edition
2014 F350 4x4 6.7L SRW
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