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10-23-2013, 09:09 AM
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#1
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Devon
Posts: 92
M.O.C. #12573
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Suburban Water Heater electric
Hi All:
Did a stupid thing. Turned on my water hearer electric while tank was empty. Looks like the 120V AC t-stat Hi-Limit switch burned out.
That is that little wire fried apart. Question: To repair it do I just replace this part or is the electric element ruined also. And how do I test for the electric element.
Thanks for any input.
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10-23-2013, 09:19 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: McKinney
Posts: 7,166
M.O.C. #6433
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You can test the heating element with an ohm meter. If it is burned out it will show infinite ohms, meaning open circuit. If it is still good it will show a few ohms. Not sure how much but it should probably in the range of 10 ohms or so. But it might be a good idea to go ahead and replace it.
__________________
Bill & Patricia
Riley, our Golden
2007 3075RL (recently sold, currently without)
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10-23-2013, 03:31 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Wilsey
Posts: 18,799
M.O.C. #11455
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They aren't that expensive, if it were me I would replace the element also.
__________________
Dick, Joyce, Diego, Picatso and Gustav
2017 3720 RL, and 2013 HC 343RL
Pullrite Hitch, IS, Disk Brakes, 3rd AC, Winegard Traveler, Bathroom door mod, Dometic 320, couch for desk swap, replaced chairs, sun screens, added awnings, etc.
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10-23-2013, 04:06 PM
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#4
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Northport
Posts: 439
M.O.C. #12726
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DH did the same thing and had to replace the element. Lesson learned.
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10-23-2013, 04:27 PM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 4,697
M.O.C. #12947
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And while you are at it, replace the magnesium anode too. You might also get the nozzle that you put on a hose and stick inside the water heater to rinse out all the crud. OZZ has all that stuff in his catalog or you should be able to find it at most RV dealers or service places. You will also need the special 1 1/2" socket wrench to get the element out, a 1 1/16" socket to remove the anode, and a little teflon tape for the threads on the anode, and maybe a little anti-seize grease for the threads on the element. It's not hard to do, and the anode should be checked at least yearly, so you have protection for the tank.
__________________
Bob & Becky
2012 3402RL
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC 4WD
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10-24-2013, 02:35 AM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lake Gaston
Posts: 8,773
M.O.C. #12156
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If a gambling man, I would bet the element is fried.
__________________
Mike and Lorraine
2002 3655 FL, 2005 3650RK
2010 3665RE, 2015 3910FB
F350 crew cab dually 6.7
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10-24-2013, 04:13 AM
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#7
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Devon
Posts: 92
M.O.C. #12573
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Hi Guys:
Thank you for input. I will replace both parts. I have already replaced the sacrificial anode and cleaned the interior of the tank. I have been running on propane to heat the tank so I will just cool the tank, drain it, replace the parts and refill.
Hope you all have a great winter. See you in Quartzite, AZ, in January, God willin' and the crick don't rise.
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